The Workshop

The Old Bass Spa Workshop

Fitted Despiau bridge with Full Circle pickup installed

Bass Spa Bass Stands

I got tired of having 2 or 3 or 4 or 5 basses taking up the whole floor of the music room when the bass closet overflowed so I whipped up four of these DB stands from materials I had around the place.

I wish I'd done this a long time ago!

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The 2 x 8s for the front and back are 21 1/4"long, the 2 x 10s for the sides are 10 5/16" long with a 38 degree bevel ripped on most of the inside face and the 2 x 4 end pin holder is 10 5/16" with a 1 1/2" hole in the centre.

The end pieces were propped up on the other 2 x 8 to raise them 1 1/2" while I screwed the front on. The 2 x 4 end pin holder was likewise raised 1 1/2". You could raise it more if you play with a shorter end pin.

I tried neoprene foam for padding on the first one but it made the bass too wiggly so I've put thin cork on the resting surfaces instead.

Gluing up separated seams with spool clamps

It feels great - its got a little 'stickiness' which

holds the bass firmly.

I put small peel and stick felt buttons on the bottoms of the

corners to protect the floor.

I had all of the tools and materials to hand so they

were a quick solution for me.

If you choose to make yourself one make sure the dimensions

will work for your bass. These stands have so far been tested

with Kay basses, Roma 3/4 basses, a 1950's German and my 1850's Bohemian. The depth should work for instruments up to 9" overall

depth.

If your bass is deeper, increase the length of the sides

accordingly.

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* If you do make yourself a stand, please be careful with your

fingers as well as with your bass. I can't take responsibility if you

over-step your abilities and something bad happens to either one. *

I patterned my double bass work fixtures on one belonging to Bruce Sexauer. Its a big two-jawed clamp that holds a bass securely for repair in a way that lets me use both hands on the tools.

Its basically two H frames joined by 4 foot pipe clamps. Lay a 2 x 12 on the crossbars and you're ready for work. The legs are full dimension 4 x 4 Hemlock, 39" high.

(You might want to leave them longer to start if you're taller - I'm 5' 8" with short arms and a bad back.)

The crossbar of the H is 1 x 5 fir rebated into the leg at 1" from the floor to the top and screwed and glued.

The centre line of the holes for the galvanised pipe is at 23 1/4" from the bottom. This needs to be bigger than the pipe's OD but not so big as to make the whole fixture sloppy.

I rebated the tops of the legs before assembly on my big old 16" chop saw, taking out 1" of the 4 x 4 in the shape of a bass. These are different shapes at each end to suit the butt and the shoulders of the patient. My pockets are lined with thick soft cork but leather would be good too.

I use the clamp part for soundpost, end pin, bridge and fingerboard work and put the patient in sideways for seams and other work.

I've made a bench top that's simply a piece of ply with four cleats screwed on the bottom that line up with the four posts- a quick squeeze with the clamp handles and I've got a different working height.

Bass Spa 'Bass Clamp'

*Disclaimer*

*Only intended for use by professionals*

* Don't squeeze so hard you crush your bass!*

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Bottom 'H' frame

Galvanised pipe

Top of upper leg

Dottie nestled in the 'Bass Clamp'

Top of lower leg

Pony clamps

Carbon Fibre/Graphite Neck Reinforcement

Installing a 1/4" x 1/2" x 18" graphite bar in a 1940 Kay neck . This will keep the neck straight no matter how many times the fingerboard gets planed and help with higher frequency tone production as well.