The washer only uses 1 gallon of water folks.
You go adding too much soap and bad thangs are gonna happen:
You MUST use "HE" (High Efficiency-Low Suds)
type detergent--AND use the correct amount.
Nearly all brands of "HE" detergent have incorrect instructions.
The correct amount is as follows:
HE: (2) Tablespoons Per Washload
HE 2X (double concentrated) : (1) Tablespoon
HE 3X (triple concentrated): (1) Teaspoon
This reduces/prevents:
1) Musty Odor
2) "LE" Error/Interrupted Cycle
3) L-O-N-G Cycle Times (longer than time displayed)
4) Insufficient Cleaning Results
5) Small Water Leaks from the air vent behind the washer or at the
front door gasket
6) Damaged Hall Effect Sensor (on 2007 or older LG washers)
7) Reduced Spin Speeds (laundry not spin-dried effectively)
Most consumers were doing what is *normally* the right thing to do, which is to follow directions on the detergent label. In this rare case--those directions should be entirely disregarded.
Additionally--in many LG washers--the liquid dispenser cup (blue cup) has a "MAX" line on the white siphon cap.
This was a screw-up on LGs part--this "MAX" line has NOTHING to do with measuring detergent and should NEVER be used as a guide for determining correct detergent amount.
The "MAX" line indicates how much liquid must be in the blue dispenser cup before it DISPENSES from the bottom of the cup.
This is a very,very frustrating mistake that gives owners much grief.
After three months of incorrect type of detergent or incorrect amount of the correct detergent used--musty odor begins to occur.
After more than two years--a significant amount of soap scum/curd has accumulated in the washer. Odor-causing bacteria flourishes on this build-up.
It is imperative to remove this slimy residue. Tide sells a product called "TIDE WASHING MACHINE CLEANER" which is very effective.
Once a tub has become heavily contaminated--normal methods of performing a TUB CLEAN cycle won't "cut it".
Add the entire packet of "TIDE WASHING MACHINE CLEANER" directly into the tub (no laundry) and close the door.
Press and hold: SPIN SPEED & SOIL LEVEL buttons--then press POWER button.
Wait for door to lock.
Press the START button (6) times--this will fill the tub with hot water to the maximum setting when it stops filling.
Press the START button two more times--this will enable the tub to tumble.
After 3 hours--turn "off" the washer.
Turn the washer back "on".
Select the shortest wash cycle (usually "quick wash") and press "START". This will rinse out the tub.
This method of "TUB CLEAN" is *not* from a service manual but has been the best method for cleaning out LG washers more than a year into incorrect detergent useage.
After this--use the correct amount of "HE" detergent & perform a "TUB CLEAN" cycle every (4) months using the *tub clean* option on the control panel.
Most digital-controlled front load washers have a software feature that consumers are unaware of.
If excess suds is detected by the MAIN BOARD (which monitors motor electrical load during rinse & final spin) the "suds kill mode" will be enabled.
This causes the washer DISPLAY CLOCK to stall.
The washer makes an attempt to reduce/remove suds--usually a futile attempt--and ends the cycle much longer than was originally shown on the DISPLAY.
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When you press the "SPIN SPEED" button and "SOIL LEVEL" button the water level frequency should be above 246. If it be below that number find the small tube going to the control and blow it out. Get rid of the sediment in the air bell and reconnect tightly. Pump out water and retry. If that water frequency level ain't above 246 then yall will get a IE code inlet error, the machine takes more than 8 minutes to fill. It gets nervous thinking maybe it has too much water in there. The fancy smancy device measures the exact amount of water needed to wash a load according to the weight of the clothes. How does it do it? When the washer starts and fills with water, the water level switch gets a pressure reading. Instead of either opening or closing a switch, it moves an iron "plug" inside of a coil. This coil is charged and measures how far the iron plug travels based on a magnetic field and inputs the reading to the main control board in KHZ. The main control board takes this info along with the load weight and figures out how much water the load is going to need. For example, if your washing 5 t-shirts, the washer will know it doesnt need as much water as it would need for say 5 beach towels and adjusts the water to a level that best suits the load thats being washed. Fine tuning the water level makes that puppy work all propah. When you press the "SPIN SPEED" button and "SOIL LEVEL" button the water level frequency should be above 246.
TO RECAP:
If the water frequency level fails to reach 246 in 8 minutes you will get an IE error or inlet error. You would need to check the water valve, water pressure, etc.
How does the machine know if the water level is complete? Water level switch right? So obviously the control is timing the amount of time it takes till the water level switch kicks off. If it takes more than 8 minutes we have a problem don't we? Therefore if something is partially blocking the tubing from tub to switch that might throw off the water level switch. It is located on the main control assembly and has the rubber tube connected to it. The control board uses this to determine water frequency level. Just blowing the sediment out of that tubing will cure the IE error IF everything else mentioned is all good. I meself would do that first before replacing any parts. Got that? LOL
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Hall sensor failure:
When too much of the low-sudsing HE detergent is used in the LG washers (and especially non-HE type detergent)...
The motor & main board will detect suds when the tub begins to spin.
As strange as this sounds--suds causes drag/resistance.
The older hall sensors overheated--the main board would shut-down the washer & flash an error message of "LE".
If the Hall Sensor was not damaged--then the customer would be able to unplug the washer for about 2-3 minutes and plug in the washer again--the washer would be able to be re-started (reboot of the computer).
Eventually--this results in an "LE" error that won't re-set and the Hall Sensor needs to be replaced. The tell-tale symptom of this (aside from a "stuck" LE error) is that when the customer pushes the START button--the tub *wiggles* momentarily before flashing LE again.
On a few occassions--the washer WILL start but the motor GROWLS loudly.
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Problem:
An occasional LE error but always a slow or no spin: Solution:
The Red wire going to the Hall sensor was intermittent. You can test this from the main board connector down to the connector on the hall sensor by checking continuity. There is an intermediate connector down by the motor/hall sensor so you can isolate the problem even more. My problem was in the short wire harness that connects directly to the motor and hall sensor. I could not find the open point of the wire so I added a new red wire and integrated it into the harness. All is Good!!!
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Problem:
The seal design on the washer traps water causing mildew to grow.
Solution:
If the door gasket has a small hole at the six o'clock position--it is clogged with soap scum. Use compressed air to blow this hole clear.
This allows water to drain back into the tub
If there's no hole--this is an older model LG which did not have this upgrade
Wiping the door gasket with a rag after the LAST cycle of the day helps prevent debris from accumulating. Some consumers add (1) teaspoon of bleach to a spray bottle with water--and spray the older type gaskets after the final laundry load finished--to keep the gasket clean.
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Problem:
The detergent and softner dispenser is gravity feed and builds up with "gunk". It has to be cleaned regularly and while the tray is removable, the inlets are not; so you have to fish out the sludge with a paper towel.
Solution:
This common on almost all front load washers.
Remove the dispenser tray. Remove the blue liquid detergent cup. Add all to the top rack of the dishwasher---run a cycle. This makes much less a chore of cleaning the dispenser tray assy.
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Problem:
The washer broke down about 6 months ago (roughly 2-2-1/2 years old). The waste pump went bad. No service reps in the area and the place that sold them to us quit selling LG after numerous complaints. I went to a local appliance parts wharehouse that sells just about every part known to the appliance world and when I mentioned LG, the guy at the counter smiled and shook his head. "You have to order it online.
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Solution:
You are correct---parts & service is still lacking in some areas, regrettably.
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Problem:
The dryer has an auto dry feature which never fully dries the clothes so we wind up manually setting the dry time to an hour
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Solution:
LG gas dryers are VERY tempermental in long vent set-ups. If fabric softener sheets are used in the dryer--clean the two stainless steel strips of metal on the lint filter housing with a SCOTCHBRITE PAD--scrub back & forth several times to remove the waxy residue from the fabric softener sheets. Most,if not all manufacturers do *not* recommend using sheets in dryers that have a moisture sensor (electrodes).
However--using a SCOTCHBRITE pad keeps the wax off those sensors which can be seen if looking *into* the dryer drum and at the lint filter housing.
If only *liquid* fabric softener is used in the washer--clean the dryer sensors once a month. Liquid softener also contains wax which can slowly accumulate on the dryer sensors from the laundry washed in the washer.
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Problem:
With no error code showing up and the glitchy flickering of the display, I'm eyeballing the main board.
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Solution:
Unfortunately--that appears to be the fault (main board) if the lights for the cycles that circle the control panel knob flicker or do not fully "light up".
Main Board Part # 6871EC1121D
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Problem:
Getting a CE error code
Solution:
This is a *rare* error.
It's highly unlikely the motor is at fault.
Detergent overuse triggers an "LE" error rather than "CE".
UNPLUG THE WASHER...
First--inspect all wiring connections at the MAIN BOARD (see below instructions). If good...
Inspect the wiring at the motor--remove the rear service access panel.
Remove the 17mm bolt at the center of the rotor--this can be tight as threadlocker is used (I use an 18 volt Dewalt Impact drill).
Pull off the round shaped rotor. Use some care--this rotor has magnets lining the inside of it--it's not super fragile but can crack if hit sharply.
Inspect the two plug connections to the motor for loose or frayed wiring. Also inspect the wiring which runs from the base (bottom) of the washer-to-the-motor. Once or twice--I have found wiring frayed from the gyrating tub assembly (repair as needed).
If no obstruction such as a nail or similar object can be seen in the drum (small holes in tub)...if the drum turns freely by hand--the most likely fault will be the MAIN BOARD has failed.
This job is very simple:
Remove (3) screws at the top of the control panel.
Pull the control panel towards you & upward.
Remove the screws that attach the MAIN BOARD to the Display Board. Install new MAIN BOARD.
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