Trumpet Mouthpiece Information

Trumpeters I have tried (owned) more mouthpieces than socks.

What should you do to test a mouthpiece?

Right:

• • Take your time. If you are in a shop trying lots of them, I think it would be a good idea to have warmed up on your “usual” piece. Keep this handy.

  • Long tones, scales at mf. Gently ease into all registers, test flexibility – slurs, lip trills etc… Have someone honestly tell you how you sound. (A teacher would be good). See how it sounds from the back of the room, not just up close.

  • Comfort. Above all, a comfortable mouthpiece that you can play on and sound good on is a real goal.

  • Sound. Paramount in the quest for the “right” mouthpiece. Blind testing and ignoring the numbers on the side of the piece is a very good idea.

  • A/B. Keep referring to what you know. Your sound will always be your sound, your mouthpiece choice may change this slightly, but after 2 weeks or so you will end up sounding like you again. Let’s make that a comfortable choice. Granted cup depth will influence your sound somewhat, but your mental sound image is the driver; it controls the whole machine.

  • Record yourself – you wouldn’t believe what sounds good on a recording. It is good to know what the microphone thinks!

  • Ordering abroad – like me – buy mouthpieces that are around the size you play and ask the manufacturor for help – they will know better than numbers on a chart. Years back on a Bach forum I was recommeded the 3C – this was a time where I was told that small = high and I wasn’t going to listen. Fast forward some years and I am playing on Mark Curry’s 3 rims. Funny that!

Wrong:

• • Let’s find the mouthpiece that gives me the best upper register.

  • Let’s see what I can play the loudest and brightest on.

  • Let’s find the biggest-rimmed, smallest mouthpiece, because that’s what lead players use. Pressure = Force/Area, so more area will dissapate that arm pressure and I will have the best endurance.

  • Small = bad, big = good.

  • Big = bad, small = good.

  • Shallow = high notes.

  • Deep = no high notes.

  • Real mean play on bathtub sized mouthpieces with car-exhaust backbores.

Basically:

Choose a comfortable mouthpiece that makes your job as a player easier! There are no prizes for heroes playing lead on a 1X. Do not compromise the sound.

Ok, I have thrown a bit of stuff your way there, now for more! There are a lot of popular mis-conceptions with mouthpieces. I have been taught every contradicting theory under the sun of mouthpiece and the selection thereof; finally, after asking my own questions I have wised to what works and what doesn’t.

Some “gold” that I have heard or been taught:

• • Play on the biggest mouthpiece possible.

  • Play on the smallest mouthpiece possible.

  • Play on a 7c/1C/arbitrary size.

  • This rim feels sharp because you have a weak embouchure.

  • Play on this, it has the biggest backbore (referencing the throat at the time).

  • Mr “X” plays on this, if it is good enough for them, it is good enough for you.

  • There are “cheater” mouthpieces for playing high, that’s how those American boys play.

  • It doesn’t matter; just play.

I bet some of those are familiar. As an impressionable young student I tried mouthpieces because to play high I need a small one – according to my teacher. I was never taught how to breathe or any of the fundamental exercises necessary for playing and I literally knew no better. Thankfully I was set straight by a decent local teacher!

Here is the deal, and information you will see given by respected players: play something fairly middle of the road unless it doesn’t work for you. If the rim is sore, there are many options – I will mention this below.

Shallow pieces will emphasise high overtones and help you cut. This is a good idea for big band, and if that is your sound concept when playing piccolo these will work. If you just like a brighter sound, why not play your 3D?

Medium pieces will work well for all types of playing if you have a good sound concept and can manipulate your sound.

Deep pieces will attenuate the high overtones and emphasise the fundamental tone. These can be good for a big dark sound if you want to emulate a rotary horn, or to blend in a brass quartet or even combo gigs.

If you are a student it is my opinion that by sticking to a standard depth cup you will develop into a better player who will be able to utilise a shallow cup when appropriate. It is also true that bigger/deeper mouthpieces can cover up embouchure and general playing flaws, another good reason to stay in the middle of the road until you (or your teacher) feel that you are ready for change.

For anyone wanting to start, here are a few mouthpieces which I consider middle-of-the-road.

• • Bach 7c/6c/3c

  • Curry 7c/3c (slightly more cushioned than Bachs)

  • Warburton 5MC/8 4MC/8 (slightly more cushioned than Bachs)

Not middle of the road:

• • Jet Tone 10s

  • Bach 3E/1B/17C

  • Warburton 1XD/12

  • Curry 00S

For those of you who play and are considering swapping or “upgrading”. Why? Is this teacher-prompted? Is the rim hurting? Can you not play on your current piece? Do you want an easier upper register? Do you want a better sound? Tighter slotting?

Ok, firstly – the simple ones:

Teacher prompted swap – trust them. Trust what you feel, if they move you onto something that feels bad compared to your regular piece, tell them. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Your 3C is fine!

Upgrading? Add half an hour/day to your practice routine. In this time do flow studies. That is a better upgrade.

Fine tuning a piece – this is for geeks and or pros who know their gear and want to optimise. In this case you will know what to do, but for the sake of a comprehensive article that hopefully avoids too much techno-linguo.

For your own help: A higher compression setup can help secure the upper register.

Tightening up slots:

• • Tighter backbore

  • Optimising the GAP between the mpc end and the leadpipe within the receiver – typically 0.150″. Contact Bob Reeves for his sleeves.

  • Shallower cup or even a less V shaped cup. (Think Warburton S vs the SV, MC vs MD).

Adding sizzle: