Ruff

This Spanish style was quickly adopted all over Europe and, as time passed, the ruffles became full-scale ruffs, which were termed bands. They were then separate items of wear, not attached to the shirt or chemise, and were made from linen, lawn or Holland cambric. The long strip of fabric was pleated and set into a neckband (also wristbands) and usually completely encircled the neck, being tied in front with tiny, tasselled cords called band strings. After 1565, with the introduction of starch, ruffs became larger. They required frequent and expert laundering. They were washed, starched, then set while damp into form and goffered by inserting heated metal setting or poking sticks into the individual folds; these folds and ribs were known as purls or sets. When dry the ruff was placed in a low, wide band box. The fashionable ruff gradually increased in size until 1580-5, when it might extend nine inches on either side of the neck and consist of 18 yards of material. It would be starched, often in color, and require a support underneath at the rear. The supporting structures, known as underproppers, supportasse or rebato (the name varying according to design and region), could be wire frames fitting the back of the neck with the radiating wires being hidden in the ruff folds or were of pasteboard covered in white, pleated cotton. The edge of the ruff was often wired. Lace edging, or even a ruff entirely of lace, was fashionable in some countries, particularly England, France and Italy, while in Holland, northern Germany and Poland ruffs tended to be large but plain. Wrist ruffles were in matching sets with the ruff and this was termed a suit of ruffs. These sets might be embroidered in black, gold or silver thread and tiny jewels were sewn into the pattern; this was especially so in Spain, where ruffs were not over-large but were very elegant. (Encyclopedia Of World Costume, Ruff)

(See also Clothing and Accessories)