Boots

[The flamboyant footwear styles popular during the reign of James I (1603-1625)] were superseded in the reign of Charles I (1625-1649), when political instability and war in Britain and Europe encouraged the popularity of military-inspired, knee-high, leather boots. These were fashionable from the 1620s to the 1690s and despite their practical origins as riding wear, they were often elegant and decorative. (Encyclopedia Of Clothing And Fashion, Shoes, Men’s)

By the sixteenth century, high boots of soft perfumed leather were worn to meet upper stocks and would soon develop into the wide, floppy cavalier styles of the first half of the seventeenth century. Soft boots folded down – and slouchy boots worn with boot hose elaborately trimmed with lace flaring out into wide funnel shapes to fold down over the boots – characterized these fashions. Boot hose was worn both for its decorative qualities and to protect the costly silk stockings. These high boots featured a leather strap on the instep (the surpied), and a strap under the foot, which anchored the spur in place (the soulette). They had funnel tops, which covered the knee for riding and could be turned down for town wear. Under Louis XIII a shorter, lighter model of boot emerged, the ladrine. In the early years of the eighteenth century, under the influence of the French court, boots disappeared except for those worn by laborers, soldiers, and devotees of active sports, such as hunting and riding. (Encyclopedia Of Clothing And Fashion, Boots)

In the first half of the seventeenth century the boot became an article of high fashion for men; especially between 1625 and 1650, when boots were worn on all occasions, indoors and out. They were made of soft leather and were high, with a funnel top which covered the knee for riding. For town wear this funnel was turned down, giving the open bucket top so characteristic of Cavalier dress. The weight of this top caused the boot to sag and crease across calf and ankle. On the instep, the leather flap, called a surpied, was cut into the familiar butterfly or quatrefoil form. It and the spur were held in place by a leather strap, the soulette, fastened under the boot. The boots had heels and, often, platform soles as well.

For riding or military wear the jack boot was worn in both the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. In the seventeenth century it generally had the instep flap of leather. It was made of hard “jack” or “bend” leather, which means that the waxed leather was hardened by coating with boiling pitch. It was a heavy boot with square toes, deep square heels and a funnel top to cover the knee. In the eighteenth century the back part was often cut out to facilitate bending of the knee; and a softer and lighter-weight jack boot was also available without an instep flap and with a lighter top. With the introduction of petticoat breeches in the 1660s, and then the gradual change-over in men’s dress from these to coat and breeches, the boot went out of fashion and until the 1780s was retained only as functional protection for bad weather and travelling. In the 1780s it returned to favor as a fashionable item in a man’s wardrobe and there was a choice of several styles. All of these, worn with fitting breeches, were also well-fitting, of polished leather in black or light shades of brown, and were generally knee-length or just below. There was the top boot (also known as a jockey or jemmy boot), which was of soft black leather, turned down in a deep fitting cuff at the top to display the light brown leather lining. In the 1790s the Hessian boot (known as a Hussar boot in France) became fashionable. Taken from the style worn by the troops of Hesse in Germany, it was of hard, black, polished leather and had a tassel hanging from the top in front. (Encyclopedia Of World Costume, Boot)