Macgregor’s Cave
When is a cave not a cave? Answer - when it is Macgregor’s Cave. It was an overhang of rock that the Victorians made into a sort of spartan summer house.
It's a bit like a wind tunnel in that it has doorless entrances at both ends. Inside it is dark in spite of its square north facing window (no glass). There is a stone shelf on which people light fires and a chimney cemented into the rock above, which presumably allows the smoke to escape.
Outside and within only a few yards, there are superb views of the surroundings. From the promontory if you look to the west there is an uninterrupted view to Loch Rannoch and then, on a clear day, the whole way to Glencoe where Buachaille Etive Mhor stands proud on the horizon. To the north you can see the ruins of Dunalastair house, looking like a gothic pile from which any number of vampires might emerge given half a chance. The pointed towers still stand, although at jaunty angles. The superb stonework is greenish and in front it is still possible to see the sweeping terraced lawns that afforded views of Schiehallion and the river Tummel. What a grand house it must have been, serviced by many servants, with grand gardens serviced by many gardeners. Now the lawns are home to the beehives of local beekeepers and the rampant rhododendrons no doubt provide valuable nectar. Inside the floors of the house have collapsed and the ceilings are down. The once impressive sweeping staircase is no more. The wind blows through and the rain has free access. Here and there a hanging wooden shutter clatters in the wind adding to the ghostly ambiance. How was the mighty house fallen! As I understand it, the house was used as a School for the children of Polish Servicemen in the Second World War at which time it was intact. The story goes that after the war the lead was stolen from the roof and it was too expensive to replace. The consequence was that the weather was given free reign to begin the degradation and the process has gone on ever since. Shortly after the founding of Rannoch School it is rumoured that, boys being boys, pupils took it upon themselves to investigate the still-stocked wine cellars of the ruined house and partook of the contents.
Below the view point a cascade of deciduous trees tumble down to the river Tummel not far from its exit from Dunalastair Water. Here, held back by the downstream dam, the river forms a deep dark sinister pool. The pool is said to conceal rocks where three members of the clan Macgregor were killed by redcoat soldiers. Clan Macgregor lost their lands in the maelstrom of warring clans. Thereafter they had little option but to become cattle rustlers and for a time Rannoch became a no-go area for the authorities. Probably the Macgregors did not hide in Macgregor's Cave but behind nearby clefts of rock that allow entry through a narrow channel. It is easy to see you you might be concealed when you are behind these rocks. There are rough steps leading up to this hideaway and the agile investigator can pass through and emerge down a steep boulder strewn exit closer to Macgregor's Cave.
To the east the view looks to the wooded slopes through which the Overbohespic road passes on its way to Trinafour.
The walk to Macgregor's Cave begins on the Schiehallion road, on the track that leads to Crossmount house and passes between two houses at the road end. There is no access for unauthorised vehicles and so vehicles are best parked at the end of the Lassintulloch forestry track a few hundred yards back along the road towards Kinloch Rannoch.
From the road the track passes beneath large trees as you approach Crossmount House. Here is a hotspot for red squirrels which come to feeders. The track veers left in front of Crossmount and now glimpses of Dunalastair Water emerge. In spring the lawns of Crossmount are a sea of snowdrops. In autumn the chestnut trees which border the track rain conkers. In winter Dunalastair Water is home to up to fifty whooper swans that have fled Iceland for something warmer.
This track leads to the Dunalastair holiday Cottage called Bridge Cottage where once there was a bridge over the river Tummel to the north side. In the days when there was a bridge it was possible to make a circular cycle or walk which encompassed Kinloch Rannoch. The steel girdered bridge started life as one that vehicles could cross. It deteriorated and was converted to a footbridge but the footing of the bridge were undermined by the flow of the river and eventually it fell into the river where its skeleton can still be seen partly projecting stiffly Into the air and partly submerged.
From Bridge Cottage a track leads steeply up the hill and this is the one that leads to Macgregor's Cave. The way used to pass through a mature conifer plantation beloved of squirrels. The plantation has now be felled and although this is bad news for squirrels it does afford pleasant views of the river and the north bank. High on the north bank, in sunny weather, it is possible to see a mica schist cliff glimmering with light. It is an outcrop that was once considered for commercial exploitation and was exposed by blasting. Mica has numerous uses - antifouling paint, electrical insulation, furnace windows and Christmas card glitter. In the event the potential was never developed.
Proceeding up the hill towards Macgregor's Cave the path crosses smoothly sculpted limestone before twisting its way up to a high straight section that looks down on a deep gorge and across this to the site of Macgregor's Cave. The pass encounters the burn at an interesting crossing. Again, there was once a bridge and the remnants of its timbers can be seen where they have fallen into the steep-sided burn. Crossing requires care. There is a fallen tree which almost spans the burn and in recent years massive but narrow step-stones have been placed to assist the crossing. Unfortunately spates have significantly undermined the stepping stones and their positions have shifted. They can be used, but care is needed as they are slippy. When the burn is high this crossing may not be possible.
A successful crossing through the shady green gorge of rushing water is rewarded by a scrambling ascent along a steep and narrow exit. This place is slightly hazardous but is magical nevertheless. There is something Tolkienesque about it. There must have been elves here even if they conceal themselves now.
You emerge into sunshine, if you are lucky and proceed along a heathery path where small pearl bordered fritillaries may be seen in summer. Gradually, looking to the left the old ruined Dunalastair house becomes visible across the valley and on the right you draw alongside the rocky cleft mentioned earlier.
Another few yards and you are at Macgregor's Cave.
This walk is one of the most varied in Rannoch, with woodland, water, rocks and expansive views. It is much to be recommended.