Cycling Rome to Bari, Italy

1: Rome to Velletri : 45kms

Elevation gain/loss: +825/-675 m

Roads: Via Appia Antica/SS216/SS7/VAA/SP95a

The route follows the ancient Via Appia Antica Roman road and in this stage almost all roads/tracks are secondary and consequently good maps and/or navigation devices are necessary. Lake Albano is located in a mountainous area and expect some stiff gradients.

Leave Rome and join the Via Appia Antica at Porta San Sebastiano. If travelling from St Peter's Square or any other central point a good route to the gateway is first past the Circo Massimo then the Baths of Caracalla and onto the cycle friendly Via di Porta San Sebastiano which leads directly to the gateway. Porta San Sebastiano (6kms) is a gate within the Aurelian Walls of ancient Rome.

Head off along the ancient Roman road past many famous ancient archaeological sites, catacombs, mausoleums and much more. This section is a memorable start to the journey but be prepared for a slow bumpy ride over the stone surface! After approximately 17kms cross a busy secondary road (leading to the Airporto do Ciampino) and at the next secondary road turn right onto the road into Santa Maria delle Mole (21kms).

Note: the track continues beyond this right turn but is too difficult to manage on a touring bike.

From Mole cross the SS7 highway and navigate sharply uphill on secondary roads to join the SS216 and then follow the road upwards into Castel Gandolfo (28kms), overlooking Lake Albano. The Papal Palace dominates the city.

Continue on the SS216 which joins the SS7 through Albano Laziale and soon after turn right onto the Via Appia Antica (road name is visible) heading towards Genzano di Roma (35kms). The VAA is fragmented and reappears leading into San Gennaro (39kms).

Note: efforts to follow the fragmented VAA beyond this point failed as tracks became 'dead ends'

Leave San Gennaro and follow the SP95a into Velletri (45kms).

2: Velletri to Terracina : 82kms

Elevation gain/loss: + 203/-412m

Roads: SP97a/SP87b/SP2/SP16/SR148/SP46/SP179/SR148

The Via Appia can be folllowed by simply using the SS7 all the way from Velletri to Terracina (via Tor Tre Ponti) but the road is a relatively narrow single carriageway with one lane only in each direction and often with no hard shoulder whatsoever. In busy traffic conditions the worst type of road route for cycling.

This alternative route deviates from the Via Appia but it is off the main highways mostly and takes in a beautiful section alongside the Mediterranean. It is steadily downhill from Velletri then flattening off for the remainder of the stage.

Leave Velletri on the SP97a and after approx 2kms join the SP87b and later turn left on to the SP2 which leads into Cisterna di Latina (16kms).

Do not be tempted to investigate the Via Appia Antica after approx 5 to 6kms as this becomes impassable after a short distance. At Cisterna di Latina the fragmented Via Appia Antica is replaced with the modern SS7 (Via Appia) highway straight to Terracina. However, this alternative route first heads for Latina and then the Mediterranean coast before reaching Terracina.

Leave Cisterna di Latina and follow the SP16 to the outskirts of Latina where there is the option to go through the centre of the town or take the busy SR148 which skirts around the town. Whichever route is taken on leaving Latina join the SP46 and after passing through Borg Grappa (46kms) turn right to reach the coastline. Then follow the road for 9 to10kms before turning inland to Sabaudia (61kms). Rejoin the SP46 then turn left onto the SP179 before turning right onto the busy R148. Leave the R148 for the centre of Terracina (82kms) where sections of the Via Appia and many historic buildings are located.

3: Terracina to Marina di Minturno : 53kms

Elevation gain/loss: +550/-540m

Roads: Via Appia/SS7/SR213/SP138/SR213/SS7

The Via Appia heads inland from Terracina on the SS7 to Fondi then turns back to meet the coast again at Formia. This route is a few kms longer than taking the SR213 coastal road although there is a little less climbing in total. However the SS7 is a narrow single carriageway with no hard shoulder and in busy traffic is the worst scenario for a cyclist.

This route follows the coastal road which is relatively quiet as far as Formia but does include some climbing and requires good lights for a number of tunnels.

In Terracina the Roman Temple of Jupiter stands high on the headland overlooking the town (and strategically viewing the Via Appia in both directions). It is a detour of approx 8kms at an elevation of 225m and if taking the coastal road option it is necessary to drop back into Terracina first.

Leave Terracina at the waterfront and after 2 to 3 kms leave the SS7 (Via Appia) and join the SR213 signposted Sperlonga, Gaeta and Napoli. The road continues through the coastal resorts of Rio Claro (10kms) and then Sperlonga (19kms). At approx 29kms take a left turning onto the SP138 which bypasses Gaeta and rejoins the SR213 in Porto Salvo (36kms).

Approaching Formia (41kms) it is possible to take a short detour backtracking up the SS7 (Via Appia) to visit the tomb of Cicerone.

The SR213 along this coastal section is very busy and after Formia it links up with the busy SS7 which cannot be avoided in part. Navigating along lesser roads towards Scauri (51kms) is preferable and finally follow the coastal road into Marina di Minturno (53kms).

Note : this section involves cycling through tunnels and good lights are essential. No paths around or through the tunnels exist.

4: Marina di Minturno to Santa Maria Capua Vetere (SMCV) : 63kms

Elevation gain/loss: +217/-214m

Roads: SS7/SS7quater/SP291/SS7quater/SP224/SP249/SP1/SS7

Mainly flat with sections of secondary roads off the main highways following the Via Appia Antica as much as possible.

Leave Marina di Minturno and rejoin the SS7 (Via Appia) and after 3kms this merges with the SS7quater. At Borgo Centore (5kms) turn left onto the SP291 and continue through Cellole (12kms) and then rejoin the SS7quater for 5kms before turning off left at traffic lights onto the SP224 (Via Appia Antica) just beyond Baia Azzurra-levagnole (19kms). This is an awkward left across the flow of traffic.

Continue through Mondragone and zig zag over to Cancello ed Arnone on the SP6 and SP21 or any other number of roads leading to Cancello ed Arnone (39kms).

In Cancello take a left turn onto the SP249 which follows the River Volturno past Brezza (48kms) before joining the SP1 into Capua (58kms). From Capua follow the busy SS7 straight into Santa Maria Capua Vetere (63kms)

Visit the famous Amphitheatre Campano, seat of the renowned school of gladiators and the place from which Spartacus in 73BC led his revolt against Rome.

5: Santa Maria Capua Vetere to Benevento: 60kms

Elevation gain/loss: +453/-355m

Roads: SS7/SP100/SP131

Flat at first then steady climbing from Santa Maria a Vico moving towards Appennine mountains.

Leave SMCV on the main road SS7 (Via Appia) towards Caserta and at Casapula (4kms) leave the SS7 following the Via Appia Antica leading to San Nicola la Strada (11kms). The road system makes this a circuitous section of the journey and beyond San Nicola continue to follow the Via Appia into Maddaloni (16kms) where the road rejoins the SS7 (Via Appia) towards Santa Maria a Vico.

Approximately 2kms after Maddaloni it is possible to join the SP100 which follows quiet secondary roads through Montedecoro, Messercola (22kms) and into and out of Santa Maria a Vico (25kms) before rejoining the SS7 (Via Nazionale Appia). The road rises steadily as far as Arpaia (32kms) and there is an opportunity to navigate through Forchia off the SS7 if preferred.

On the SS7 towards Montesarchio turn right at approx 39kms for Benevento (signposted) and this road rejoins the SS7 after 4 to 5kms. Continue on the SS7 through Tufara and Tressantin before taking the SP131 option through Cancellonica and then rejoining the SS7 at Epitaffio (54kms). Stay on the SS7 before turning off into the centre of the busy town of Benevento (60kms).

The Trajan Arch stands over the Via Appia and commemorates the building of the Via Trajanna in 114AD by Emperor Trajan. This extension of the Via Appia was the more direct route to the Adriatic.

6: Benevento to Giardinetto: 70kms

Elevation gain/loss: +1010/-921m

Roads: Mainly SS90bis/SS90

Now on the Via Appia Traiana the route ascends into the Appennines and descends before climbing again with a long descent into Giardinetto. This route misses Troia and options to visit Troia are given later.

Leave Benevento on the SS90bis and when reaching the Industrial Zone opt (a) to continue on the busy highway climbing into the mountains or (b) turn right at 5kms and loop under the highway, entering the Industrial Zone, and then navigate along secondary routes also leading into the mountains.

The secondary road option leads up to Ignazia on the Via Ignazia and is very demanding as it ascents and descends very steeply. In some cases the ascents are too steep to cycle and pushing is the only option. The section leaving the Industrial Zone is strewn with building debris but this is for a relatively short period and a road emerges as soon as the countryside opens up.

After Ignazia (10kms) there is an option of returning to the SS90bis or continuing on the 'Strada Comunale Montecapriano' which in time returns to join the SS90bis and then continue upwards through Contrada San Arcangelo (15kms), Serre dele Forche and levels off in Piana Ferrara (17kms). Whether its option (a) or (b) it is a long hard climb.

After Piana the road follows the contours and descends through Traverso, Buonalbergo (23kms), Cusano (31kms) then rises again towards Mazzincollo and down to Scalo di Savignano E Greci (44kms).

Join the SS90 in Scalo and follow it downhill through Taverna di Mantaguto (50kms) and at approximately 62kms, signposted Foggia , bear left across the oncoming traffic and continue on the SS90 still gradually descending to Giardinetto (70kms).

One place of accommodation in Giardinetto is the Agriturisimo Posta Guevara which is a holiday resort in peaceful surroundings in the

countryside. Rooms in rustic style chalets.

Options to visit Troia (located on the ancient Via Appia Triana):-

• 1. Troia is a further 12 kms uphill (+230m) from Giardinetto on the SP109 (in the opposite direction to Bari) and a visit there involves retracing one's steps the next day or navigating back on alternative secondary roads

  2. Navigate to Troia more directly by leaving the SS90bis at Buonalbergo and taking the more mountainous roads through Casalbore, Malvizza, Castelfranco in Miscano, Faeto, Castelluccio Valmaggiore and Troia. This route is approximately 78kms and a substantial 1680m elev gain

  3. Navigate to Troia on a slightly less mountainous route by leaving the SS990bis at Cusano and travelling through Malvizza to Castelfranco in Miscano and then continue as in option (ii). This route is approoximately 78kms and 1512m elev gain.

7: Giardinetto to Canosa di Puglia : 63kms

Elevation gain/loss: +286/-399m

Roads: SP110/SP83/SP95bis/SP231 (inc 25kms unmarked roads/tracks)

An early short climb but otherwise downhill and easy going across fertile plains.

Leave Giardinetto on the SP110 crossing fertile plains with numerous wind turbines climbing into Castelluccio dei Sauri (8kms). Continue steadily downhill on the SP110 to cross the River Carapelle and soon after enter Ordona (22kms). From Ordona to Cerignola it is almost a straight line through Stornara on secondary roads and tracks in some stretches.

Navigate out of Ordona on the 'Viale del Cimitero' and stay on this very quiet flat road which passes through olive groves, vineyards and cultivated fields joining the SP83 to enter Stornara (34kms). Leave the centre of Stornara on the SP83 but very soon take a right onto 'Via Don E. Tazzoli' which leads onto a country road/track passing the local cemetery and continuing through cultivated fields to the outskirts of Cerignola. Join the road system and head into Cerignola (46kms) with the impressive Duomo at its centre.

Leave Cerignola and join the SP95bis and (soon after passing over the motorway) and at the point the road merges with the SP231, take a short detour on the slip road on the right signposted 'Ponte Romano' and follow the signposts to cross the ancient Ponte Romano. This ancient bridge can only be crossed by foot or bicycle and the track the other side rejoins the main highway in approx 2 kms. It is of course possible to stay on the highway now the SP231 and view the bridge from a distance. When rejoining the highway and in order to pass Arco Triana (Canosa) on the way in, walk the bike the short distance over to the Via Cerignola (leading towards the centre) rather than follow the SP231 which is where traffic is directed.

Navigate into the centre of Canosa di Puglia (63kms).

8: Canosa di Puglia to Bari : 79kms

Elevation gain/loss: +391/-488m

Roads: SS93/SP181/SP30/SP2/SP22/SP231/SP156/SP73 (+sections of VA Traiana)

Generally easy going losing elevation over the course of the route nearing the Adriatic.

Leave Canosa di Puglia on the SS93 and after approx 1km, and before the road starts to wind upwards, turn right onto the (unmarked) SP181 which is a minor road passing through olive groves and vineyards and after a couple of kms pass over the SP230 and later cross the SP12. After approx 12kms rejoin the SP231 for 200m and then turn right on the SP30 (signposted Corato). Follow the SP30 into the centre of Corato (33kms).

Navigate out of the centre of Corato to join the SP2 and then in a straight line to Ruvo di Puglia (41kms) with its atmospheric Apulian Romanesque Cathedral. Leave Ruvo on the SP22 and as soon as this meets the SP231 there is an option to (a) follow the SP231 to Bitonto using a service road which runs alongside the highway for half the distance or (b) start following the service road then immediately turn right onto the Via Appia Traiana (signposted) and follow the rough track until it rejoins the SP231 near Bitonto. For a touring bike the surface is too rough and loose to make this enjoyable! Either way nearing Bitonto leave the SP231 by turning left across the oncoming traffic (signposted Bitonto) and enter the historic centre of Bitonto (59kms) nicknamed “City of Olives”.

Navigate out of Bitonto and join the SP156 passing over the motorway and past the airport at the end of which turn right at a roundabout onto the SP73. At the next roundabout (with railway above) turn left and follow the road to the Adriatic seafront. Continue along the seafront and enter the centre of Bari (79kms).

Ferries sail from Bari to Croatia, Montenegro, Greece and overnight to Durres in Albania if travelling the Via Egnatia next.

The Olive Tree Hostel is good value, very friendly staff and reasonably central.