Cycling Istanbul to Jerusalem (via Cyprus)

Cycling Istanbul to Jerusalem (via Cyprus)

A route for the touring cycle

Prepared by Tom Jones based on journey in October 2019

General route description:-

The map overview and stage route descriptions are intended to provide a simple reference for those planning a cycling journey across Central Anatolia to Cyprus and onwards to Israel by air.

At the time of my trip to enter Israel by air from Cyprus was the only option. No ferry services into Israel were in operation and overland through Syria too unsafe.

No attempt is made to give much detail of the historical or cultural aspects of the places traveled through. They are too numerous to mention in this simple cycling guide.

Touring cycle:-

This route is for touring cycles and paved roads are generally followed although the section of Israel National Trail is unpaved and very uneven and dismounting and pushing is unavoidable at times.

Route planning & navigation:-

Daily routes plotted using 'ridewithgps' online services and a Garmin bike computer used to navigate through each stage. Suitable road maps provide an overview (and back up if the technology fails!). A portable charger (back up) is recommended in case of mobile phone/Garmin power loss.

Roads:-

Those given in this overview are taken from the OSM (Open Street Map) system freely available to download to Sat Nav devices like Garmin. Be aware that from one mapping system to another road references vary considerably.

Accommodation:-

Camping is not considered in this guide and the majority of overnight stays were booked through Booking.com although these are very limited in number in Central Anatolia.

Information sources:-

The Confraternity of Pilgrims to Jerusalem website and the associated Facebook Group is invaluable as a source of information and ongoing communication.

Along the Templar Trail by Brandon Wilson and Walking to Jerusalem by Justin Butcher. Valuable books providing inspiring accounts of journeys (by foot) to Jerusalem. Brandon in fact provides particular information on walking the journey which is available within the walking sub sections of this Confraternity website.

1: Turkey – Istanbul to Iznik (via Yalova) : 62kms

Elevation gain/loss: +538/-459m

Roads: D575/D150/D595 highways

A Visa is required to travel within Turkey.

Main highways are unavoidable to make good progress in Turkey and although traffic is often heavy there are usually wide shoulders and it is not unsafe for experienced cyclists.

The Yenikapi – Yalova ferry is 2 kms west of Sultanhamet, the cultural centre of Istanbul and ferries run regularly across the Gulf of Izmit to Yalova in Asian Turkey. Other ferries cross the Bosphorous into the Asian section of Istanbul if this is preferred.

Leaving the ferry terminal in Yalova it is possible to delay joining the D575 main highway for approx 8kms. By taking the side roads (Yalova cd) out of the town to a junction just short of Sogucak (8kms) but be prepared for some fierce climbs on this option.

D575 has wide shoulder to ride over the rising landscape and descend towards Orhangazi on Lake Iznik. Leave the D575 short of Orhangazi at approx 22kms and follow the flat D150 (joining D595 later) alongside the lake as far as Iznik where a walkway/cyclepath runs alongside the waterfront.

Known as Nicaea in Roman times and surrounded by ancient fortified walls still visible in part Iznik is famous for producing the very best Ottoman ceramic tilles used to decorate many of the mosques in Istanbul.

2: Turkey – Iznik to Bilecik : 64kms

Elevation gain/loss: + 1137/-721m

Roads: D595/D160

Two major climbs in this section with gradients in excess of 10% in the steep climb away from Lake Iznik.

Leave Iznik heading south on the D595 passing through the remains of the fortified Greek/Byzantine/Ottoman town walls. The highway towards Yenisehir is flat alongside the Lake before climbing 6kms at increasingly steeps gradients.

At roughly 21 kms, just short of Yenisehir, turn left to pick up the D160 when the roads become little used and it is a lonely ride to Bilecik over mountainous terrain. Alternative secondary roads will be more demanding and few, if any, chances of finding food/water. For the last 4 or 5kms join the busy 11-03 main highway into Bilecik.

Bilecik feels like a relatively modern town but has a long history being associated with the nearby town of Sogut where the Ottoman Empire was founded.

3: Turkey – Bilecik to Bozuyuk : 35kms

Elevation gain/loss: + 499/-253m

Roads: D650

Immediately descending out of Bilecik the road is busy for 5 or 6 kms as far as Asagikoy then joins the D650 which is a major highway with a wide hardshoulder.

Steadily climbing for the next 10kms with little relief apart from fuel/service stations then flattening out before entering Bozoyuk which has a realtively quiet town centre with signs of industry in surrounding areas.

Hotel accommodation is available in Bozuyuk although a relatively short day by bicycle.

4: Turkey – Bozoyuk to Kutahya: 77kms

Elevation gain/loss: +1130/-930m

Roads: 43/79 & D230

Taking the option to avoid the D650 major highway and following the little used 'Kuthaya-Bozoyuk Yolu' lonely mountainous road for 60kms before joining the very busy D230 leading into Kutahya.

The road rises steeply out of Bozuyuk passing through Dodurga, Cihangazi, Eskiyureyil and Seyitomer before joining the D230 highway with very wide hardshoulder. The road involves serious climbing before arriving at the mountainous pass at approx 32 kms just after Cihangazi after which the going is easier to Kutahya. It is a lonely road and the scenery is very desolate in parts with evidence of heavy industry and ugly industrial waste.

Recommend leaving D230 approaching Kuthaya and navigating into centre on side roads to avoid the D230 road intersections which are very busy and difficult to safely negotiate nearing the town centre. Wide hardshoulders are lost at intersections and traffic is heavy

Large and lively Kuthaya is in Western Anatolia and lies at just under 1000m above sea level. The Byzantine fortified castle is located high overlooking the city in which stands a most impressive modern civic building.

5: Turkey – Kutahya to Altintas: 57kms

Elevation gain/loss: +460/-360m

Roads: D650 and country roads

The further one travels into central Anatolia the more obvious it becomes that refreshments are available only at roadside service stations.

Leave Kutahya using stretches of designated cycling path alongside the road and join D650 after approx 6kms. After 10 kms the highway climbs steadily for approx 5kms and there is little relief. Turn off the D650 through Dogalar (27kms) to take a liittle used country road through Cayirbasi and Gecek and on to Altintas.

Accommodation is available in Altintas and an opportunity to divert from relentless cycling on the D650 highway. Akpinar Hotel is a couple of kms outside town and has economical room including breakfast and take away food can be ordered at night.

6: Turkey – Altintas to Afyonkarahisar : 68kms

Elevation gain/loss: +410/-400m

Roads: D650 and country roads

Continue on country road through Yapilcan, Muranthalar and Yolcati before joining the D650 after 15kms. At Antikayar (29 kms) leave the D650 to take a lonely undulating country road through Asakitandir to join D665 at Gazligol (47 kms) a spar town with resorts. Crossing to Gazligol reduces the kms on the main highway and offers a close up experience of the vastness of the Anatolian Plains.

The ride is easy into Afyon which sits within dramatic outcrops of rock formation,

A castle stands high above the city and has been in existence since the times of the Hittites. The city was the centre of opium production during the Ottoman Period. Marble from the Docimian quarries nearby was used extensively by the Romans and can be found in the Pantheon floor and colums in Rome.

7: Turkey – Afyonkarahisar to Sultandagi : 74kms

Elevation gain/loss: +290/-280m

Roads: Mainly country roads + section of D300

Note: accommodation after Afyon is difficult to find 'online' resulting in long rides each day to reach major towns with overnight accommodation options.

To avoid the relentless D300 to Cay take flat country roads through Sulumenli, Cobanlar and Kadikoy into the center of Cay (54kms) and afterwards follow D300 to leave at Dogancik 5 kms short of Sultandagi. Going is a little lumpy between Cay and Sultandagi.

Sultandagi is on the Sufi Trail which connects Istanbul and Konya. It also ovelaps with the Silk Trail and a classic 'caravanserai' is located in the centre. It is a small town and a simple hotel is available also in the center.

8: Turkey – Sultandagi to Ilgin : 73kms

Elevation gain/loss: +500/-460m

Roads: Mainly country roads + section of D300

Leave Sultandagi heading to Kirca and Derecine and at 8kms join the D300 and then leave at approx 20kms to pass through Atakent and the larger Aksehir (29kms) before rejoining the D300 for a long stretch on the hardshoulder of this main highway into Ilgin.

Majority of climbing is from Aksehir up and down to Ilgin which is a town with spar facilities.

9: Turkey – Ilgin to Konya : 94kms

Elevation gain/loss: +490/-470m

Roads: All D300 with no real options

Follow secondary roads out of Ilgin and shadow the D300 for approx 10kms then join main highway for remainder of journey to Konya. It is a long stretch on main highway and gradually rising for 60kms and then gradually down to Konya. The highway is the only option through this area of Anatolia

On the outskirts of the city the highway passes through the University campus and cycle paths are available in sections. Konya is a very major city and road systems have underpasses making it problematic to safely negotiate. Navigation into the center is problematic and traffic extremely heavy.

Konya is the pilgrimage destination of the Sufi Trail and Rumi or Mevlana has his tomb here. Rumi was the founder of the Whirling Dervish Islamic movement and highly regarded poet and mystic. The museum containing the shrine and the surrounding buildings are very impresive and a day here is well spent.

10: Turkey – Konya to Karaman : 116kms

Elevation gain/loss: +310/-260m

Roads: Mainly D715 with no real options

Navigate out of Konya on secondary urban roads to join main highway D175 after approx 25kms at Kasinhani. At Gokuyuk (53 kms) there is a climb but otherwise the roads are relatively easy going.

Alternative lesser roads are possible but the distances will signicicantly increase and accommodation will be problematic. The main highway is the faster and easier option in these remote sections of Anatolia. Attemps to use lesser roads will result in very slow progress in difficult surroundings in my experience.

The remains of a Karamanic Period castle is at the center of the city.

11: Turkey – Karaman to Mut : 76kms

Elevation gain/loss: +1070/-1760m

Roads: Mainly D715 with no real options

As an option to the D175 from Karaman follow the side roads through the village of Derekoy (8kms) and continue onwards on lonely mountainous road to meet the D175 after approx 13kms.

The highway feels a relief after the lonely mountainous country road but its still seriously uphill for the next 22kms to the Sertavul Pass through the Taurus Mountain range. Scenery is dramatic and the Sertavul Pass at 1,660m is a famous pass at the border of the Mersin-Karaman province. (Snow covered and often impassable in Winter).

Beyond the pass it is very long fast descent to Mut where the town centers around the main street Ataturk Boulevard.

12: Turkey – Mut to Tasucu : 84kms

Elevation gain/loss: +822/-1090m

Roads: D715 & D400

Leave Mut on the D175 downhill for 10kms leading into the River Goksu valley. The Goksu connects the ancient city of Silifke with the interior and the road follows the Goksu into Silifke climbing up and down the steep sides of the valley. It is a demanding section by bicycle with dramatic scenery. Approaching Silifke (72 kms) the Greek/Byzantine castle walls rebuilt by the Crusaders can be seen prominently overlooking the city.

Silifke to Tasucu is approx 12kms on the very straight D400. The ferry to Cyprus is short of the port of Tasucu and remote from the town itself. There are no facilities at the ferry terminal and no reason to be there in advance of the crossing. It is an overnight ferry service and no daytime service was available at my time of travelling.

Note: Ferry service to Cyprus

From my experience the ticket for the ferry and cabin reservation could only be purchased at the Ferry Services's office on the waterfront in the town of Tasucu. My plan to catch a daytime ferry fell through when I was advised this particular service was not operational. Early enquiries about which services operate could save much disappointment and re-arrangement of plans.

The overnight ferry service caters mainly for transporting goods vehicles and there are few passengers. Basic cabins are available by booking in advance or a reclining seat in a single small lounge area. A kiosk sells a few cans, crisps and chocolate and not much else. No meals or hot drinks. Be prepared for an uncomfortable journey with primitive border control systems embarking and disembarking the ferry. Facilities for luggage and bicycle storage are very primitive in the corner of one of the lower decks.

13: Cyprus – Girne/Kyrenie to Nicosia : approx 30kms

Elevation gain/loss: +approx 400/-approx 250m

Roads: D25

Leave the ferry terminal and navigate through the busy streets aiming to join the main highway D25 which crosses the mountain range towards the capital Nicosia. This is a seriously tough climb at a steep gradient and any secondary roads would make the climb even more difficult.

Refreshments essential before starting this climb out of Girne after disembarking the overnight ferry at an early hour in the morning.

Leaving the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus at the Ledra Palace checkpoint and entering the Republic of Cyprus (Greek Cyprus) is straightforward. From the Greek side of the city there are further passport controls to re-enter the historic walled city of Nikosia.

It is possible to continue to Larnaca traversing the island in one day and spend a rest day on the beach resort of Larnaca instead of or in addition to a day of exploring ancient Nicosia.

14: Cyprus – Nicosia to Larnaca : approx 45kms

Elevation gain/loss: +approx 325/-approx 475m

Roads: B1/B2

Roads are very busy leaving the center of Nicosia to pick up the B1 which shadows the A1/A2 motorway all the way to Larnaca. The gradual climbing eases at Dali (44 kms) when the road finally leaves the built up suburbs of Nicosia and the surrounding industrial areas.

In Pera Chorio (50kms) turn off the B1 onto the B2 and continue on the B2 gradually downhill from Lympia into the centre of Larnaca or navigate along secondary roads when reaching the outskirts of the city. The waterfront and castle are very popular holiday destinations and the city has been continuously occupied for over 4,000 years.

Larnaca International Airport is less than 10kms south of the city and easily reached.

15: Israel – Ben Gurion Airport to Jerusalem : approx 71kms

Elevation gain/loss: +approx 1530/-approx 780m

Roads: 453 & Israel National Trail & Highway [1] (joining at Sha'ar HaGay Interchange)

Visas are provided at airport border control on entry at Ben Gurion Airport.

This route connects up with the Israel National Trail at its nearest point to the Airport.

Leave Ben Gurion Airport on Ha Teufa Blvd and join the 453 which is a very busy dual carriageway with wide hard shoulder. A few tight junctions require steady progress in heavy traffic conditions. Heading east via Biet Nehemiah (11kms) to meet the Israel National Trail.

Due to flight times and various factors my journey involved an overnight stay in Beit Nehemiah but for the purposes of this guide the journey to Jerusalem is shown as one very full day.

Connecting with the Israel National Trail just beyond Beit Nehemiah the going gets really hard on dust tracks sometimes hewn out of the underlying rock. Steep uphills impossible to ride mean dismounting and pushing. National Trail signs are not always clear amongst the multiple trail options used by local off road cyclists. GPS navigation is extremely helpful.

Initially the INT trail picks its way through the Ben Shemen Forest and reaches Latrun with its monastery after 36kms of arduous riding on surfaces more suited to mountain bikes. Rising more continuously now the Trail reaches the Main Road [38] at approx 44kms near the Sha'ar HaGay Interchange where there is a choice of two routes into Jerusalem

Option A: At this interchange take the slip road onto Highway [1] to help ease the increasingly steep ride into Jerusalem.

On this option there are a few settlements alongside the Highway [1] allowing some rellief from the intense traffic and the constant climbing on the main highway. Any roadworks blocking the hard shoulder make it highly dangerous to cycle on the inner lane of the highway but finding lesser roads almost impossible from my experience. Leave on the Ben Gurion Bvd to navigate into the centre of Jerusalem.

Option B: Continue on the INT near Sha'ar HaGay Interchange through the woodlands and take a clearly very demanding route on unpaved tracks rising into the Judean Mountains. In addition to the difficult track surface this route will add approx 12 to 15kms to the journey length and an additional approx 400 to 500m of climbing in comparison with using Highway [1] as in Option A.

Note: the Israel National Trail does not lead into the city of Jerusalem as it turns south towards the Red Sea just before Hadassah University Hospital near Ein Kerem some 7 or 8 kms short of the city. Main Roads [395] and [386] are closeby to navigate into the city if taking this route by bike.

The journey into Jerusalem by bicycle is very demanding.

Return option: Israel – Jerusalem to Ben Gurion Airport (on highways only) : 49 kms

Elevation gain/loss: +320/-1,020m

Roads: [60],[45],[443],[444] & [453]

Returning to Ben Gurion Airport is much easier taking the major highways and avoiding the Israel National Trail. Of course this route can be followed to Jerusalem and the journey can be accomplished with much less effort but with less opportunity to experience the Israeli countryside.

Navigate away from the Old City using cycleways and side roads shadowing Route [60] heading north towards Ramallah. In approx 9kms the West Bank barrier wall runs alongside the road on the right and it is advised to take the left turning soon after to join Route [45] and avoid passing through the next B'ir al Cal'ah junction where border control is very confusing. Route [45] joins the major highway Route [443] at approx 17kms and in this direction travelling towards the airport there are no border control points to pass through.Soon the road starts descending and its downhill all the way to the airport.

Routes [45] & [443] pass through the West Bank and barriers are in evidence on both sides of the roads in certain sections.

Control points are in place in opposite direction on the [443] and from my experience of entering West Bank to visit Bethlehem passport and visas must be shown to enter or re-enter Israeli controlled areas.

Meet the Ben Shemen interchange at approx 44 kms and follow Route [444] to Beit Nehemiah and then turn left onto the Route [453] travelling west to the airport. Join the Ha Teufad Blvd at the Ben Gurion exchange and continue into the airport complex.