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Owners Manual 2020 [PDF]
+1.541.791.4610
2786 Three Lakes Rd SE #100, Albany, OR 97322
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Parts: Quick, easy, online ordering, any time of day. See if the store has what you need! Cant find what you want? Send us an email with a photo of the part and we will be happy to assist, store@chaletrv.com.
Repairs: Contact our repairs department to help bring your trailer back to factory standards If your trailer requires repair, please send us a few photos of the issue by email at repairs@chaletrv.com or give us a call at 541-791-4610.
Warranty
Your new trailer structure is warranted to be free from manufacturing defects in material and workmanship for a period of one year from date of purchase to the original owner. Full warranty statement can be found here.
All appliances are covered by individual warranties from their respective manufacturers and can be serviced easily at a local appliance service center.
All warranties are provided as part of your owner’s information and are in the owner’s and appliance manual packet.
If you have any warranty questions, we would be happy to answer them. Please send an email to warranty@chaletrv.com or give us a call at 541-791-4610.
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ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
The electrical system consists of a primary 12-volt DC system and a 120-volt AC system. The 12-volt system uses battery power similar to that used in automobiles. The 120-volt system requires a source of 120-volt power provided through the power supply cord. These systems are connected through a power converter. When connected to 120-volt power, the converter transforms 120-volt AC input into 12-volt DC power output and charges the storage battery(s) when installed.
12-VOLT DC SYSTEM
The 12-volt system provides power for the following components: • Interior Lighting • Exterior Lighting • Water Pump • Furnace Blower • Refrigerator • Water Heater Ignition • Stereo/CD/DVD Player • Fantastic Fan • Power Vent • Accessories plugged into 12-volt outlet
BATTERY
Maintenance of your 12-volt battery(s) is essential for carefree travel. Be sure to use a heavy-duty, minimum 95 amp/hr. (160 RC), RV/Marine deep cycle battery. Certain models can accommodate two batteries. Ensure that they are both the same size and type battery. Check the battery(s) frequently with the condition meter located on the monitor panel. Also check the water level often. The use of a hydrometer is required to test for the specific gravity of the battery acid. Hydrometers are available through an auto parts store.
NOTE: The 12-volt battery(s) is not supplied with the RV by the manufacturer.
The battery(s) must be securely strapped at all times. The battery(s) is charged by the trailers charging system while the tow vehicle is running or when connected to 120-volt power through the power converter.
Check that the battery liquid level is correct (weekly in warm climate, monthly in cold climate). Don’t forget to also check the condition of your truck battery. Add distilled water as required. Clean battery terminals and cables periodically with a wire brush and baking soda. Be sure the caps are securely in place when cleaning. Ensure that the wing nuts on top of the battery are tight. Loose wing nuts can cause arcing and intermittent or loss of 12-volt power. Use caution not to touch battery terminals to metal doorframe when removing or installing the battery. Always disconnect the negative (-) cable first and reconnect it last.
Remove rings, metal watchbands, and other metal jewelry before working around a battery. Use caution when using metal tools. If the tool contacts the battery terminals or metal connected to them, a short circuit could occur which could cause personal injury or fire.
Do not allow battery electrolyte to contact skin, eyes, fabrics or painted surfaces. The electrolyte is a sulfuric acid solution that could cause serious personal injury or property damage. Wear eye protection when working with batteries.
BATTERY CHARGING Normally the battery(s) will be kept charged by either the trailers charging system while on the road, or by the AC/DC power converter when plugged into AC service. On those occasions when the battery needs to be charged from a different charging source, please follow these safety guidelines: Disconnect both cables to prevent damage to the trailer’s electrical system. Do not smoke near batteries being charged or which have been recently charged. Please note that batteries are being charged while you drive, and while you are connected to 120-volt AC power through the power converter/charging circuit.
BATTERY STORAGE PRECAUTIONS When you store your RV for a week or more be sure to disconnect battery(s). Electronic tuning radios, the propane detector, and the CO detector all draw a small amount of current when the battery is connected. Even disconnected batteries will naturally “self discharge” about 1 % of capacity per day. If you intend to store your RV for any length of time, remove the battery(s). Store it in a cool, dry place and recharge every month. Batteries will discharge on their own. Recharging will also help prevent problems with battery sulfating which leads to premature battery failure.
TRAILER FUSE PANEL 12-volt Interior Circuits A 12-volt interior fuse panel is installed in the Power Distribution Center to protect the interior circuits. Circuit titles and fuse sizes are marked inside the removable access door. If a fuse blows, locate and correct the cause. Turn off all lights and motors, and then install a fuse with the same rating. If fuses continue to blow, a short circuit is indicated. Have the system checked by qualified personnel.
FUSES All the electrical circuits in your RV have fuses to protect them from short or overload. If something electrical in your trailer stops working, the first thing you should check for is a blown fuse. Determine from the chart, or the diagram on the fuse panel, which fuse or fuses control that component. Check those fuses first, but check all fuses before deciding that a blown fuse is not the cause. Replace any fuses and check the component’s operation. Do not install fuses with amperage ratings greater than that specified on the label. Replacing a fuse with one that has a higher rating greatly increases the chances of damaging the electrical system. If you do not have a replacement fuse with the proper rating for the circuit, install one with a lower rating until you can replace it with the proper rated fuse. If the replacement fuse of the same rating blows in a short time, there is probably an electrical problem with your RV. Leave the blown fuse in that circuit and have your camper checked by your Chalet dealer.
120-VOLT POWER CORD Your RV is equipped with a heavy-duty power cord for connection to an external 120-volt, 30 amp rated service. The cord is commonly called the “shore power cord”. The cord and plug are molded together to form a weatherproof assembly. Do not cut or alter the cord in any way. Do not remove the ground pin from the attachment plug. If you have to use an adapter to plug into an electrical service, make sure the ground is maintained. Never use a two-conductor extension cord, or any cord that does not assure appropriate and adequate ground continuity. Use a 30-amp RV extension cord with a maximum length of 25'. Never plug the 120-volt cord into an ungrounded receptacle.
PROPANE SYSTEM
Please observe the warnings and cautions contained in this section as well as the manufacturers supplied information with each gas appliance. Propane is stored in a high-pressure tank in liquid form and is delivered to the appliances in a gaseous form. The propane container(s) must not be placed or stored inside a vehicle. The container(s) are equipped with safety devices that relieve excess pressure by discharging propane to the atmosphere.
BTU’S One gallon of propane produces approximately 91,502 BTU’s. Using the BTU rating of each gas appliance in your RV, you can determine about how long your supply will last according to your usage. Dual 5 gallon propane bottles hold approximately 862,026 BTU’s
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Propane is of course highly flammable and also heavier than air. It’s treated to have a garlic like odor to detect a leak. If a leak should occur, the propane can collect in pockets along the floor and thereby dissipate the air. If unnoticed, this could result in suffocation or an explosion.
USING PROPANE SYSTEM It is normal to have a slight gas odor when initially opening the outlet valve. Fully open and seat valve by hand only to prevent leakage past the valve stem. If an odor seems to linger perform a leak test. Keep outlet valves closed when not using the propane system. Do not attempt to adjust the regulator. The manufacturer has preset it. If any adjustment is required, a qualified propane service technician using special equipment must make it.
PROPANE TANKS are equipped with a two-stage automatic changeover regulator, which transfers propane demand automatically to the second tank when the first tank becomes empty. For proper operation, both outlet valves must be opened. Turn or slide the tank selector knob so it points to the tank you wish to provide service. A small glass window is located on the regulator. A clear or green band will appear in the window indicating that pressure is in the line from the tank. After all propane is used from that tank, the regulator will automatically switch service to the other tank, and a red band will show in the window, with the arrow or slide pointing to the empty tank. The empty tank can be removed for filling without disturbing the gas flow to the camper by rotating or sliding the tank selector to the full tank. The red band will disappear from the window indicating Pressure supply from the full tank.
APPLIANCES
Follow the operating and maintenance instructions supplied by the appliance manufacturer for safe and dependable use. The following information is supplied as only a supplement to that provided with each appliance. If you have a problem, see your local Chalet service center or call the appliance manufacturer.
LIGHTING PROPANE APPLIANCES
NOTE: New propane tanks or empty tanks that have been sitting with the valve open for a period of time must be purged of air and moisture prior to filling. Air trapped in the propane lines may delay the initial lighting of any appliance. It could take several seconds or minutes for the propane to reach the appliance. To purge some of the air from the propane system, first light a burner on the range. The other appliances will then light more quickly. The first time the furnace or oven is operated, paints and oils used in manufacturing may generate some smoke and fumes. If this occurs, open doors and windows to air out the RV. These materials should burn off in a short time. Always follow the appliance manufacturer’s lighting and operating instructions.
REFRIGERATOR
The refrigerator operates on 120-volt AC power, propane and on 12-volt DC (if equipped). The operating instructions supplied in the Owner’s Information Package will help you with detailed information from the manufacturer. The recreational vehicle propane type refrigerator operates on the “absorption” principle and therefore must be reasonably level. When your trailer is stationary, it should be leveled for comfortable living. If you can occupy the trailer comfortably, the refrigerator unit should perform well. If the refrigerator unit is not “close to level”, it may not function properly and your food will not be adequately cooled. When the RV is in motion, the continuous movement will not affect operation. The operating instructions are printed inside near the controls and may be found in the manufacturer’s instructions manual.
OPERATING TIPS Operate the refrigerator on 120-volts for 8 to 12 hours (overnight) before you leave on a trip. This will allow the refrigerator and freezer to get cold and even have some ice ready. Pre-cool food and drinks before putting them into the camper refrigerator. For off-truck use, some refrigerator models must have 12-volt battery hookup to power the electronic controls. Refer to the supplied appliance manuals for proper operating instructions.
RANGE
The gas burners and oven use propane gas for fuel. Operation is similar to the range in your home. However, cook temperatures will vary from home ranges depending on the altitude. The three (3) burner range is equipped with one (front) high output burner when additional heat is needed. For additional information, please refer to the operating manual supplied in your Owner’s Information Package. Before turning on the main propane supply, be sure all burner control knobs are in the “OFF” position. It is not safe to use cooking appliances for comfort heating. Do not use open flames to warm the living area.
WATER HEATER (if equipped)
Your RV may be equipped with a fully electronic water heater, which has no pilot light, simply turn ON the water heater switch. The water heater will cycle on and off as needed. If the water heater fails to ignite, a red light on the panel will appear. Check to make sure you have adequate gas and battery supply. Move switch off and back on again.
Do not operate the water heater until it is filled with water. Turn on the hot water at the galley sink, and when water flows continuously the heater is full. Occasionally you may experience “weeping” of the pressure/temperature relief valve. This is normal operation. It is caused by the normal expansion of the water while being heated. The tank is designed with an internal air gap at the top to reduce this weeping phenomenon. In time, though, the heating and expansion of the water will absorb this air. To replace the air and reduce relief valve weeping: Wait until the water in the heater tank is cool before performing the following steps.
1. Turn off the water heater. 2. Turn off incoming water supply. 3. Open a faucet in the camper. 4. Pull the handle of the relief valve straight out and let water flow until its stops. 5. Release the relief valve handle and let the valve snap shut. 6. Turn on the water supply. 7. Close the faucet when water flows continuously without sputtering. 8. Turn on the water heater. These procedures will re-establish the air pocket at the top of the tank. If the relief valve weeps again, repeat the above procedure.
CAUTION: Do not plug the pressure-temperature relief valve under any circumstances. If the water heater will be “out of service” for some time, it should be drained. See “Storage” chapter for more information. When using hot water faucets in the trailer for the first time after heating water, open the valve slowly to reduce water splattering from pressure build up
FORCED AIR FURNACE (Automatic Ignition) The furnace is a forced air unit fueled by propane and electronically powered by 12-volts. A wall-mounted thermostat similar to those used in homes controls it. To start the furnace, set thermostat switch to the ON position and set desired temperature. The furnace will cycle on and off as needed. To stop the furnace, set the thermostat to lowest setting and the Off position. If your furnace does not operate properly, check the battery condition and propane supply.
CAUTION: The furnace will not operate properly if your stored personal items block the free flow of air at the registers or return air to the furnace. The operating manual included in your Owner’s Information Package contains detailed operating and maintenance instructions. During the initial lighting of a furnace, smoke and fumes may be created as a result of the burning off of manufacturing compounds. This is normal, however, the initial lighting should be done with windows and doors open and should be of adequate duration to completely burn off residue. Portable propane appliances are not safe for heating inside the camper. Asphyxiation or carbon monoxide poisoning can occur.
FRESH WATER SYSTEM
Your RV is outfitted with a system designed to provide fresh (potable) water service from an onboard water tank or a city water connection with a fresh water tank fill located on the outside of the trailer. When connecting to the city water hookup, use only a non-toxic water hose, available at most RV supply stores. Since water pressures at campgrounds and household hookups vary, you should install an inline pressure regulator at the water supply faucet. This will protect both the RV water system and supply hose from excessively high water pressure.
CAUTION: The pump is not equipped with a dry tank shut-off switch.
Turn the pump switch OFF if water in tank becomes depleted or when system is not in use. The pump operates when water pressure within outlet plumbing drops below a predetermined pressure. A drop in pressure occurs when a faucet or a toilet valve is opened. When the faucet is closed the pump shuts off as soon as the system is re-pressurized.
Turn the pump ON to pressurize the water system. When the faucet is opened, the water may sputter for a few seconds. This is normal and no cause for alarm. The water flow will become steady when all air is bled from the water lines. If a faucet is open slightly, allowing water to flow slowly, the pump may pressurize the plumbing faster than the water is released, causing the pump to cycle on and off.
A built-in check valve prevents back flow and protects the pump and fresh water tank from excessive city water system pressures. The pump operates at 2.8 GPM and 45 PSI. At free flow the pump draws approximately 4 amps. A fuse located in the power center protects the water pump circuit.
When traveling, always turn OFF the water pump. This will reduce the possibility of water flowing during travel. If the pump cycles on and off when no water is being used, you may have a partly open faucet, a leak in the water system or an empty water tank. Never attempt to service the pump without first turning off the power and opening all faucets to relieve pressure in the water system. Consult the installation and operation manual for full details in the Owner’s Information Package.
WATER TANK FILL The fresh water system should be sanitized at the initial filling, after a period of storage or if contaminated. Fill tank slowly. Do not overfill. Do not leave unattended while filling. Structure damage may occur.
Filling the fresh water tank:
1. Close water tank drain petcock located on the outside of the water tank. 2. Remove cap on fresh water fill inlet. 3. Using a 3/8" hose adapter, fill the water tank through the exterior fill spout slowly at a low volume until water overflows out the vent. Do not force water into spout since air in the tank must be released during filling. Do not put the potable water hose into the mouth of the fill use a 3/8" Plastic Hose Adapter For Filling Water Tank 4. Set pump control switch to ON. 5. Open each faucet one by one until water flows evenly, and no air bubbles are evident. 6. Top off water tank through the exterior fill spout to replace water used in filling the water heater and purging the water lines of air. 7. Replace cap
CITY WATER INLET It’s a good idea to purchase a pressure regulator to protect your RV from possible damage due to excessive water pressure. To supply city water to your trailer’s water system and bypass the water pump: 1. Attach a potable water hose to the exterior city water inlet connection. 2. Pump switch should remain in OFF position
WATER SYSTEM DRAIN The water system should be drained if it will be out of service for more than one week. This will prevent algae and bacteria contamination of your fresh water system. To drain your trailer: 1. The trailer should be level and pump control switch in OFF position. 2. Open all faucets and showerheads. 3. Open water tank drain valve located in rear basement. 4. Open water line low point drains located in rear basement. 5. Open water heater drain and relief valves.
SANITIZING FRESH WATER SYSTEM
Sanitize the fresh water system and piping at initial use, at least once a year and whenever the RV sits for a prolonged period. This will help keep the tank and lines fresh and will discourage the growth of bacteria and other organisms that can contaminate the water supply. Rinse the tank with a chlorine/fresh water solution as follow: 1. Drain water system. 2. Prepare a chlorine solution with one gallon of water and 1/4 cup household bleach. 3. Pour one gallon of solution for each 15 gallons of tank capacity into fill spout. 4. Fill tank with fresh water. 3. Open each faucet until water flows evenly. 5. Open each faucet and water heater relief valve until water flows evenly. 6. Set pump switch to OFF. 7. Allow solution to stand for 3 hours. 8. Drain and flush with fresh water. 9. To remove any chlorine taste or odor, fill tank with one-quart vinegar to 5 gallons water. Allow solution to remain in tank several days if possible. 10. Drain and flush with fresh water.
WATER PUMP CONTROL SWITCH: This rocker switch controls the demand water pump. The water pump is pressure sensitive and starts (with the switch ON) when a faucet is open, causing pressure in the line to drop. When the faucet is closed, pressure builds in the line and the pump stops.
WASTE SYSTEM (if equipped) The waste holding system in your RV is made up of sinks, shower, toilet plumbing drain and vent lines, “gray water” holding tank. , and “black water” holding tank. The holding tanks make the system completely self-contained and allow you to dispose of wastewater at your convenience. A flexible sewer hose is required to connect the holding tank outlet to the inlet of an approved wastewater dump station or sewer system. The holding tanks are made of seamless plastic that will not corrode. On most units with dual tanks, one retains toilet waste and the other retains liquid waste from the sinks and shower. Drain all wastes at an approved site.
DUMPING THE HOLDING TANKS The holding tanks terminate in a valve arrangement that permits each tank to be dumped separately or together. During selfcontainment use, the sewer outlet line should be securely capped and valves closed to prevent leakage of waste material on the ground or pavement. Holding tanks are enclosed sewer systems and as such must be drained into an approved dump station. Both black and gray water holding tanks must be drained and thoroughly rinsed to prevent accumulation of harmful or toxic materials. Dump the holding tanks only when they are about 2/3 full. If necessary, fill the tanks with water to 2/3 full. This provides sufficient water to ensure complete flushing of waste material into the sewer line.
Whenever possible, dump the holding tanks before traveling. The holding tank outlet is set up to be used with are movable fitting that locks onto the outlet with a clockwise twist. The sewer drain hose is clamped on this fitting when you need to drain the holding tanks. When you are operating self-contained, or you store the camper, install the protective cap in place of the removable hose.
When you want to drain the holding tanks: 1. Attach the sewer hose to the dump outlet. 2. Extend the hose and insert the hose end into the sewer or dump station inlet, pushing it firmly into the opening to be secure. In some cases, adapters may be necessary between the hose and inlet. 3. Arrange the sewer hose so it slopes evenly and is supported to maintain the slope. 4. Dump the black water holding tank first. 5. Allow enough time for the tank to drain completely. Rinse and flush the tank and drain hose through the toilet with a bucket of water or a hose. 6. When the tank flow stops, close the valve. 7. Open the grey water holding tank. Repeat steps 4 through 6. This tank is dumped last to aid in flushing the outlet and drain hose. 8. Remove the sewer hose and replace the outlet cap. 9. Rinse out the sewer hose with fresh water and remove the sewer hose from the dump station. 10. Replace sewer or dump station cover(s). 11. Store the sewer hose.
NOTE: To facilitate draining, the RV should be slightly higher in the front and raise the passengerside of the trailer to drain towards the driver’s side. If you are parked at a site with a sewer hookup, keep the black water valve closed to allow the waste level to build up. The outlet will probably clog if you leave the valve open continually. Run enough water into the tank to cover the bottom. This will aid the breakup of solid wastes. The gray water valve may be left open.
HOLDING TANK CARE/MAINTENANCE Since holding tanks don’t rely on any sophisticated mechanical devices for their operation, they are virtually trouble-free. The most common problem is also an unpleasant one, clogging. You can minimize chances of clogging by keeping the following considerations in mind: • Keep the black water tank valve closed. Be sure to cover the tank bottom with water after dumping. • Movement while driving will help liquefy the solids. • Use only toilet tissue formulated for use in septic tank or RV sanitation systems. • Keep both valves closed, and the drain cap tightly in place when using the system on the road. • Use only cleaners that are approved for use in septic tank or RV sanitation systems. • Use a special holding tank deodorant chemical approved for septic tank systems in the black and gray water holding tanks. These chemicals aid the breakdown of waste and make the system much more pleasant to use. • Do not put facial tissue, paper, grease, ethylene glycol-based or other automotive antifreeze, sanitary napkins or household toilet cleaners in the holding tanks. • Do not put anything solid in either tank that could scratch or puncture the tank.
If the drain system does get clogged: Use a hand-operated probe to loosen stubborn accumulations. Seriously clogged P-traps may require disassembly. Be careful not to over tighten when reassembling. Do not use harsh household drain cleaners. Do not use motorized drain augers. Sometimes the holding tank valve will get clogged. In this case, a hand-operated auger may be necessary. Be ready to close the valve quickly once the clog is cleared. If the seal gets damaged, it must be replaced.