Slovakia Sept 08

Gone are the border crossings of the past, and the visa applications that kept you in capital cities for days. Now, as we arrived into a new city, in a new country, the only indication that we´d crossed the border was the advertising on the streets, asking for Slovakian Korunas instead of Hungarian Forints!

1 September.... 5am (local time)

¨Wake up, its 5 O'clock...¨ says Mands. We both still had ear plugs in, but we knew we had an early bus to catch so didn't sleep too well. We had once again slept in the garden on the Budapest BackPack hostel and would have happily stayed snoozing for a few more hours. However, the purpose of this half night sleep was to catch the bus to Bratislava, Slovakia, thereby saving a few dollars by avoiding the later train trip... It all adds up, right?

Apparently the main bus leaves Budapest at 630am daily... From the other side of Budapest. It turns out a new company is now trying to compete with this service, hence set up on the other side of the road from them. They leave at a sensible time of ....7am... Only 30 minutes later... I can think of a better competitive point of difference... Maybe not getting people up in the dark? But we made it... and even got there in time for a handful of on board breakfast supplies, to use up our Hungarian forints.

So our very enjoyable time in Budapest came to an end, not before my Eger hangover subsided, but that is another story....

Bratislava

So, after 2 hours on a bus trying to sleep but only achieving a series of violent, spasmodic, just fallen asleep head snaps (non-reclining seats) and fleeting fly-catching beauty poses, we entered Bratislava in a casual fashion. As they have removed border guards in the EU zone. No stamp for Mandy's passport! After spending a week learning how to speak very basic Magyar (Hungarian), we were somewhat disappointed to find it had no value or relation to the local Slovakian... Hence we were hopeless tourists again. Easily spotted with their faces in guide books, constant saying I think its this way and paying for tiny items with ATM dispensed 100,000 currency bills... Oh the death stares from the check out chicks!

Mands did a great job of calculating the public transport service combination to get us to a suggested Hostel... And we were able to drop off our over flowing backpacks. Somehow these are expanding on their own... Must be altitude, or maybe dirty clothes.

So with a weight off our shoulders, we were again discovering a town largely intact for the last 1,000 years. They have done a great job of preserving the center of the old cities, even through world wars and communist rule. So the Shops, Castles and cavernous streets are constantly impressing us colonial folk. An interesting modern tinge is added when you pass a free wifi hot spot. Recognisable by the rows of free loaders on their laptops... all generations represented!

It turns out we arrived on a public holiday and visited the main castle during their folk festival. Or you could say, the whole town took the day off to get dressed in traditional costumes and took to entertaining us with demonstrations of their age old skills and customs. Very interesting for many, but less so for me, and I did a decent job of trying to fall asleep in the middle of the whole thing... did I say we got up at 5am... I am fairly certain they spent a good part of the day tuning their traditional musical instruments near my resting place... surely they are not meant to sound like that. Maybe that is why they have never featured in the music charts... Whatever the case, real Ho down with the oldies kind of wind music with a broken reed stuff. Hell, even I could play a bit of that on my old clarinet...

We did however find a local restaurant that had an awesome bohemian dining room cut into the mountain. Deciding we should taste the national dishes, we order the 3 popular ones – a soup to share and 2 mains. Turns out any one of the 3 would have filled us nicely. But we did our best to finish the meals and ended up stuffed so full we could barely walk up the hill. Imagine a garlic soup for $3, that comes out served in a massive cob of bread... Delicious! but very filling....hence we avoided carbs for the next 24 hours...

So having eaten, folkaled and dozed in the happening Castle district, we contented ourselves to cook a light dinner in the hostel, meeting a few like minded transitioning vagrants and finished the day with a mini pub crawl. As the beers are 0.5Litres, this only last a few pubs. But the company we met was great.

The next morning we had a great breakfast and headed to the train station to get to the mountains for a bit of trekking. On the way we planned to stop at Trencin, hoping it was worth it. Although we almost missed the train stop, we did get off to enjoy one of the best days we have had so far.

Trencin

Trencin is a town where 2 major rivers meet and has had a strategic role for almost 2 thousand years, way back to the Romans. For almost 1,500 yrs, a fort has stood high on a hill above the town. We arrived to the sight of this fort and very green parks. As it is now autumn this is very refreshing.

Although now carrying over 20kgs each, we decided to trek into the main information center in town to ask about cheap accommodation. In part hoping a local will stop us with a suitable offer, like in Eger. Alas, after the 20 minute mission we were told the same information as the guide book, and headed to the cheapest option in town, a camping site on an island about 1km back the other away. Although a little apprehensive about the quality of a place a third of the cost of a 10-person dorm bed in Bratislava, it turns out our little residence was an awesome cabin complex on a river junction, teeming with fish, with perfect views of the castle... Quite literally, it could not have been better... These most noble of accommodation set us back the princely sum of $12 each... They even had a bar with super cheap kranskys and beer. Now, traveling is full of expectations and little disappointments, but if you get the chance, go to Trencin and stay on the island. It helps to speak a little German... turns out most locals are not expecting you to speak English, but are pleased with themselves when they are helpful.

We did venture up to the Castle to see what we could find, joining the 1 hour tour ....only in Slovakian! The tour guide DID speak English though but explained that she would only speak Slovak on the tour, but would be happy to answer an questions we might have.....ah, yeah, what did you just say??? Despite the language barrier, we did get to see the entire inside of the castle and climb the ancient tower to see everything around Trencin... We have a few photos and videos that show how much we enjoyed that highlight.

Trencin also taught Mands and I that we don't have to order a pizza each. So now we have cut back on our over-indulging tendencies.

We start trekking in the mountains on Thursday, so we will hopefully shake off a few of the delicious local pastries and sausages we have been devouring... Yes, this area invented strudel. Not sure that they needed an unofficial quality judge, but Mark is making notes!

Mala Fatra National Park

As luck would have it, we have now found ourselves staying in high point of a valley in the Mala Fatra National Park. The attributes of this venue include being the highest entry point to the extensive walking trails, a ski chair lift that operates for lazy walkers in summer, very nice chalets for thrifty backers and knowledgeable locals (and their dogs, apparently) and finally, a bar and dinning room..... that closes at 7pm... Yes, Slovakian time. And, although they do have a bus service to town, it dwindles to once every 3 hours after 7pm... So little option but to stay shacked up in the mountains this evening, unless we wanted to start hiking tonight... Memories of Japan... No thanks.

So here we are in the room corner of this great chalet (Chata in Slovakian), with awesome views ($40/night) with an ideal opportunity to update this website. We aim to add photos soon, as they are far more interesting than our blurb. However the cable to the camera was one of the things we left in Sydney, hence we need to be resourceful some time later.

High Tatras

After our warm up in Mala Fatra National Park, we were looking forward to the High Tatras Mountains, lying on the border between Slovakia and Poland. A VERY popular resort town, it teemed with trekkers and cyclists during the summer months, and skiers during winter.

Firstly I'll begin with the train ride there, as that is a story in itself. We purchased train tickets from the ticket office and were informed the train departed at 12.40pm. Now there were 2 trains listing our destination – one at 12.41pm with a weird symbol and the other at 12.45pm – so obviously we went for the first train. Suddenly, the words 30 minutes appeared next to the 12.41 train, which we assumed was informing us of its late running time....so we head for the 12.45 train. Now these trains are fitted with cabins , each seating up to 8 adults, with a very narrow corridor with which to walk, barely wide enough for two people to pass.....without packs. With packs however was a totally different story, and we found ourselves only able to walk in one direction of this very busy train. After about three carriages, knocking people with our bags and forcing others to turn back, we decided to get off and wait for the later train, where we had more chance of finding a seat. When the bright new, clean, air conditioned train pulled in, we knew it was too good to be true but jumping aboard, we attempted to find a seat, only to find that all cabins were reserved. We were stranded amongst frustrated ticket holders whose tones were abusive, but no doubt trying to be helpful, so I made a fairly hasty and rough retreat into the carriage behind to secure two seats. When Mark didnt immediately follow I returned to find him hoisting his bag over the heads of a crowd in order to find a passage out of the narrow corridor.

It wasnt until the ticket inspector came through that we learned what that symbol on the departures board meant......we were informed we were on a more expensive train and that our tickets did not cover us. We were told to alight at the next stop and await the next train... However the elderly lady sitting opposite me also had problems with the guard and she proceeded to pay him some money. Thinking we may be able to do that we politely asked if we could pay more money to stay on the train. Come with me......the inspector said and while Mark went off to speak to him, I had a conversation with the Slovakian lady – me speaking in English, her speaking in Slovakian. Still I believe we were having a common whinge about the lady selling the tickets from the ticket booth – the universal language of whinging!! Mark then returned telling me it was sorted. Apparently they retreated to a darkened carriage had a brief conversation about the full ticket price, if we like Slovakia and then a ..good for me, good for you... deal was struck to stay on board... So with a validated ticket (at a discounted price) and our first bribed official behind us, we sat back and enjoyed the journey.

We transferred to a new electric train for the final leg of our journey and headed to the base of the imposing High Tatra mountains, a town called Stary Smokovec. This area is primarily a ski resort and has a Thredbo-without-snow feeling, but with a a more built-up hotel feel. We headed to the local tourist info office with the hope that they can help with accommodation and with our planned trekking path. We found the office was quite helpful but identified a few problems for us. Firstly, hotels in town were apparently not interested in guests staying only one night, secondly, the path we planned would have us arrive late and tired at a very expensive hotel... Once again, our price point was somehow perceived... I am starting to think the cheap roll mat strapped to our bags is announcing our budget via an international symbol. Luckily, they had some suggestions. They could call a lady who could provide a room for 300 Korunas each ($18) and she will come and pick us up... Deal!

Regarding the trek, well apparently the old guy thought it was possible without a heavy pack, but warned the final hut may be full. Apparently it was possible we could be sent away... meaning we may not be able to stay in the mountains. Stuff it, we will try anyway. After all, peak season was meant to finished on that day.

So soon we get picked up by our landlord and her husband... Turns our she is multilingual in Slovak, Polish, German, but no English. So we say we know a little bit of German, and this sets the scene for a constant series of questions and stories in Deutsch... She, Donna, was very friendly and quite persistent in maintaining conversation....which was a little bit trying at times as we could only pick up on all percent of what she was saying, but lovely nonetheless. Her husband Edward, on the other hand, spoke Slovak, Russian and Hungarian, so the only common language we had was that of drinking. He was quick to bring out a bottle of Slovakian vodka and we proceeded to have shots throughout the afternoon...

Then two lovely Polish girls arrived and we sat and spoke to them for ages. It was so nice to be able to converse in English, after the game of charades and guessing all afternoon, and they gave us some great tips on the Tatras and Poland, inviting us to visit them when we get to Warsaw! We were happy to hear that the paths we had selected for our trek would take in the best scenery throughout the park.....but that they were also the most difficult...but how hard could it be right?

Well, after a slow start after missing our train, we finally got to our starting point after a furnicular ride to Hrebrinok, taking us to almost 1,000m above sea level. From here we started our trek through the pine trees before we began our ascent up to the first saddle, with breathtaking views of the rocky crags surrounding us on both sides and back down the valley. 3 uphill hours later and we had reached the lunch plateau at 2000m and here we stopped for a brief snack before pressing on for the hardest part of the day, the high saddle that involved fixed chains....!!

Now, we had little idea what was involved, but believed if others could do it, so could we. The steep approach to the ascent was quite intimidating. Not wanting to be too foolish, we agreed it was OK if either of us decided we didnt want to complete the summit... But we were both determined to get over the top.

There was quite a queue in front of us when we reached the chains. It appeared someone ahead was either in trouble or very uneasy. Plus, only one person could be on a single chain at any one time time. This slowed the rest down and allowed us to take our time.

Now the photos are more able to convey the actual climb we undertook. For those who have done indoor rock climbing, it was very similar. Only the climb had an incline of less that 180 degrees, so you could stay upright without having to hang on too tightly. Having to worry only about where you were clinging to and the next couple of holds, you could concentrate on the section just ahead of you... So we were soon in the rhythm and happily crawling up the slope. Looking back down you began to realise how high we had actually risen to... Pretty much straight down. As those ahead were a little slow, we took the opportunity to take a few photos. All of a sudden WOOSH.... SMACK. The girl in front of Mands has gone sliding across the cliff face and only avoided falling by gripping hold of the chain... she lost some skin of her knuckles for this stubborn hold...and was quick to point out the better route to take to me! It appears she;d been keen to get up, and held a chain her friend was using. Although we were sensible enough to avoid that stupid move, it did make us a fair bit more nervous over the last 20 metres and quite relieved to finally reach the top saddle, 2250m.

The trek down to the hut was longer than expected. So we made it to our target hut (chata) around 5pm. Now, we were worried about being turned away. After queuing for 10 minutes in the food queue, we got to ask if we can stay... Have you booked? No. Sorry, we have no space. But, we have mats and were told it was ok by tourist info... After a while she said come back in 10 minutes... So a couple of beers and delicious goulash later, we tried again. She eventually said it would take about 2 hours to walk down, or we could try to sleep on the floor...where it would be very crowded and we wouldnt be able to sleep until 10pm. We were expecting the floor, so that was fine by us. Although they did charge us the full rate! But still, we were in. So after a couple more beers and meeting the other trekkers, the lady came over and discreetly let us know we have got a bed... a BED!! We never expected that....so the night kept getting better.

After chatting with a Czech family for a couple of hours, they left and a Polish couple sat down. As we do, we started chatting to them... That is how we met Marcin and Carolyna. We got along so well with these two, we chatted until they closed the dining room. Not before they said we should contact them when we were in Krakow. Cool, it is so much better to meet up with locals.

So we sleep in the 18 bed dorm. The sun streams in at first break and Mands got up in time for a few sunrise photos. A selection of these are loaded here.

The second day trekking was a little higher than the previous. We did sleep at 2000m. But the sky was blue, the weather was warm and we made our way up and over the rough steep bits with no fuss. A few photos were taken at the top. Notably, we were on the edge of Poland and Slovakia, so we took time to enjoy the spectacle.

From the top, 2470m, we scaled all the way down to the start and hired scooters to descend the final 3kms, before making our way back to our cleaning lady pension for the night. We stopped off to buy a bottle of vodka for our host, as we had consumed a fair share the last night. On this night we met Magda and Machiek. Naturally, we drank this gift with a fair bit more during this final night in Slovakia. Edwardo was more than happy to keep offering an extra shot. We ended up staying at the daughters house next door, as this pension was full. So we got a free upgrade. Beats sleeping on the floor at a chata.

The next day we headed to Poland, feeling surpisingly well. Mands 'stepped on another frog' on the way to the train. For the first time, this was witnessed on camera.

Next stop Poland >