Montenegro Nov 08

Back to the coast, we were hoping for some warmer weather, and this former Yugoslavian country certainly delivered on that. While mid November was probably not what you´d call swimming weather, we were determined to give it a go...

At around 4.30am, we were woken from our restless sleep by the bus steward, advising us we were in Bar. We were the only ones getting off, so the bus had simply pulled over on the side of the road to let us off. We gathered our things as quickly as possible and alighted into the cold, dark morning. They pointed us in the direction of the bus station.  Why they didn´t drop us there is beyond us. Saving time??

So off we walked towards the bus station, hoping to find another bus that could take us north. After around 1.5km we found the bus station and discovered that the next bus was not for another 2 hours. We kept on moving, down to the train station, to see what was happening there.  Desperate for somewhere to hole up until the 7am bus, hopes were raised by the the numerous signs to various Bars (Stari Bar, Novi Bar, etc), but apparently this place didn't get its name from its nightlife...

At 5am we noticed a cafe opening its doors, and we were seated inside soon after. Within 10 minutes, the entire cafe was packed with smoking coffee drinkers. Where they´d come from or where they were going, we could only guess. But we were happy enough to sit and sip coffee as the morning light began to reveal our surroundings.

Finally we had passed enough time for the next bus to Kotor, and we dozed intermittently along the way, thankful for a quiet bus. Arriving at around 9am, dead tired and quite cold, we were immediately approached by a middle aged man, offering us a place to sleep about 4km from the old town. A little uncertain because of the distance, he offered to take us in his taxi "gratis" so we could check it out. Having no other options, we decided to take a look.

The road to Prcanj was narrow, with one edge dropping directly into the fjord, many parts not wide enough for two cars to pass.  Like most taxi drivers, ours chose to demonstrate his skill by driving as fast as he could and avoiding use of the brake as much as possible, narrowly missing cars and poles by millimetres!

Luckily we were quite happy with our little apartment. We met the family, including the cat, which Mandy had purring in her lap in no time, instantly winning over the family with the Dad (taxi man) commenting that we must be good people. They served us coffee and some sort of home made pecan spirit while they explained to us the local area....and dad threw back a vodka! 

Kotor

After a well needed shower, we were taxied (by vodka drinking dad) across to the medieval old town, where we spent the morning exploring. Our trail continued up the awesome fortress that was massive and extremely well preserved. Better still, it was free!!

The walk afforded us views over the beautiful fjord that snakes its way among the steep mountain shores. The walk up was a bit difficult and you had a coloured map that marked how dangerous each section was... But it was probably the best castle we had explored on this trip. The walls, buildings, gateways and fortifications rise before you in a series of daunting shapes, all largely intact. Mark is very impressed and gets into the medieval theme. The top sections had been reinforced by the WWII Germans where even more fun was to be had in their bunker system... Just a couple of photos taken....(sorry guys!)

We did notice the fort was placed to protect the town from a path built up the entire mountainside just west of Kotor. As the Fjord was well defended from the sea, this path was clearly an ancient path....anyone else want to climb it?

After coming down from the castle, we head out of town to see the artificial islands in the bay. They have built a Monastery on one that is a famous attraction. After catching the bus out there, we struggle to find a boat that is offering a trip to the island. We consider swimming (as in Bled), but we don´t have our togs - or the will - to be soaked so far from our accomm.

A car then honks to get our attention.  Turning to find our "taxi driver, vodka drinking dad", he offers to drive us back in one hour. Deal!  That saves us a few bucks and a big hassle. So the island swim is out and we stop at a shore restaurant for a bit to eat and drink. Nice place this Montenegro.

The next day we cook breakfast and plan to climb a mountain nearby. However asking our accomm hosts, we were warned against this idea. They had never done trekking in the area. Hmm... A bit strange that they hadn´t seen the trekking signs on the roadside. As we had given up visiting Dubrovnik in pursuit of the mountain trek, we are a little worried.

We head to town and ask tourist info about treks. Once again, we are met with blank looks and no help. Asked specifically about the path behind the castle and up the mountain, they claim to know nothing of it... Hmmm...

We find a trendy bar in the old city castle walls and talk about our options... Talk about cool bars, this place would go off in summer, although It is pretty empty at this time of year. As the sun is out we are keen to head out to try to find this path.

Rounding the back of the town, we find an old sign for a narrow path that passes the towns water works - a shanty shack - then heads behind the castle, where it becomes a well formed ancient path winding its way up the mountain side. We found it!

So we march up the path, with the goal of walking up for 2 hours before the light will require us to return. Mark is very impressed with the path, that appears to have been laid in the Illyrian period (pre-Roman). Up and up we climb, over a few ridges and into a mountain top forest, well above the fortress walls. We paused for a picnic to enjoy the view. Coming down, we find a herd of goats that prove very photogenic and amusing.

Hence we found the trek that rates the best we have ever done... maybe one day the lazy Montenegrins might check it out....

We reward ourselves with a dinner out in the old town. We hit a few of the more appealing bars and enjoy getting lost in the old city cavernous streets... Ah, the simple pleasures. Dinner was a little pricey and ordinary, but you get that in tourist towns.

The next morning we get up earlier and head to the Bus station for a service to Budvar. We had a great time in Kotor, easily one of the most scenic and well preserved towns on the Adriatic coast.

Budva

Once alighting the bus, we followed directions to town, looking for a specific accommodation office.  We passed Tourist Information along the way, so stopped in to ask them if they could recommend anywhere.  They were quick to tell us we were out of season, but gave us a glossy brochure with all hotels in town listed, advising us of the cheapest option (How did he know??).  He also said that there were private accommodation options as well, which are cheaper, you just have to knock on the doors of places with 'sobe' or 'zimmer'.

Not satisfied with either of these options, we continued towards the old town in search of the accomm. booking office we had the address for.  Once again struggling to find street signs, we stopped for a coffee and a breather to assess our options.

Unable to find the address, we decide to walk into the Old Town and see what we can find there.  Ducking inside the narrow cobbled laneways, we are once again tempted to get ourselves lost....but needed to lose the backpacks first.  The sun is shining and the ocean is lapping at the nearby shores, so if we are planning to get in the ocean, now is probably our last opportunity.

We find another Tourist Information shop and are once again reminded that it is out of season (do they want our business or not?).  We ask about accommodation and we are sent up the laneway to another shop.  Walking the 50m to this location, we are astonished to find the place closed - probably for the winter!!  Feeling a little frustrated, we march outside the city walls again, passing a local who probably assumes we're lost.  He points inside the city walls, saying in English "this way".  We reply "To what?  We need accommodation!"  He stops in his tracks and comes back to speak with us, and seeing our frustration, he offers to help.  He phones up a mate with a room for the night and tells us he'll be back in 10mins. 

Having renewed our faith in this little town, we eagerly await his return and start to plan our day under the gorgeous sunshine.  True to his word, he finds us soon again and leads us to his mate's place - our own little private room with ensuite, with ocean views for the bargain price of 20€!

So into our swimmers we get and head down to the little bay just outside the town walls.  Of course we're the only ones here, as everyone else has rugged up for winter, but we can't make it to the coast and not get wet!  So after a little apprehension, we finally take the plunge, and discover that it's not tooooooo bad.  Mark manages to step on an anenome, cutting his foot on the spikes.

We then returned for a hot shower before properly exploring this old town.  It really is deserted, but offers some interesting old buildings - churches and a boarded-up fortress (did we mention we were here out of season?).  We were at least able to climb up onto the city walls and walk the perimetre of the town....but were surprised when, upon reaching the end, there was no way down, and we had to retrace our steps all the way back to where we'd started! 

This did allow us to take note of a lovely coastal walk nearby, so we took off to find out how far we could get.   With the sun beginning to dip, the light being cast upon the old town was magical, and we chased the sun around the shores. When we reached a point that high tide made impossible to continue, we turned back.  Grabbing front row views of the lovely sunset, we reclined in our beach deckchairs with a nice cold beer.

The next day we were travelling into Albania and it did not look easy, as no one was able to provide clear instructions of how to get there.  So we got off to a reasonably early start to catch our bus Bar - easy enough.  In the Bus Station, while we were waiting for our connecting bus to Ulcinj, we were propositioned by a taxi driver to take us there by car.  Offering us a price below what we would have paid on the bus, we agreed to this lift, hopping in with another local.  He then drove around the corner to the bus stop and offered intending bus passengers an alternative ride as well.  Picking up one keen passenger, we took off with a now full car, arriving in Ulcinj around 30 minutes later.  Once again - easy enough.

The next leg of the journey was the most unclear, with many people reporting of hassles when we'd researched this online.  We were told there were only 2 buses a day between the two countries, one at 6am and one at 1pm.  For the 1pm 'private' bus, we were to wait at a bus stop near the post office.  But anyone we asked about this bus knew nothing about it and sent us towards the bus station.  Deciding to check the bus station out first, we were advised they had only one bus departing at 6am daily.  They knew nothing of an alternative bus - same old story!

Upon leaving the bus station, a taxi driver offered to drive us to Albania, or to a town just before the border, but wanting to see about this mystery 1pm bus (at about 1/2 of the price), we told him we'd consider it.  To kill some time, calm the nerves and break our large denomination note, we sat down for a coffee.  We tried ringing the number we had for the mystery 'private' bus, to discover that the number was not connected - further concern for us.

Just before 1pm we arrived at the bus stop again and began making some sandwiches to avoid a 'food mood' in this anxious time.  Before we'd had a chance to finish however, another taxi approached us and offered us a lift.  We negotiated on a price we were prepared to pay, still well above the proce of the mystery bus that probably wouldn't have arrived, and in we got.

We were relieved to be on our way, and listened in wonder as the guy explained that it was the quietest he had seen is in the 16 years he'd been driving, blaming the current financial crisis.  Guess it really has hit everywhere...

The only time we felt any regret about our ride was when a mini van pulled up at the border behind us.  Likely to be the cheap bus that perhaps we should have waited for afterall, we decided not to find out and just let it be, as we crossed into a brand new country.  With a bus and two taxi rides behind us, we still had to find our way to Tirana!

On to Albania