You will spend a significant time towing to go to events and the towing equipment requires some organization and also a lot of maintenance!
Neglected trailers will often lead to bearing failures and lost wheels/hubs as well as seized or non-working brakes. Don't underestimate the amount of maintenance required on trailers.
If you are not racing in a region where winter weather is not an issue, a 2WD towing vehicle like a Sprinter van could be a good option. Pickup trucks are pretty versatile and will have usually a better towing capability but they will be limited in storage space.
We are currently towing a 27ft aluminum enclosed trailer with a 2017 Chevy 2500HD Duramax for all the tools/spares and one race car.
We tow the 2nd car on an aluminum Aluma tilt open trailer with a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Hemi v8 Summit with air suspension.
Our Amazon storefront with the trailer essential list can be found here: https://amzn.to/4uvInd9
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases made from the links we provide. (at no cost to you, you still enjoy the same discounts and prices as usual)
Tilt trailers don't require ramps but they can make it more difficult to load a disabled car and you need to maintain the tilt mechanism which is not an easy task in climates with harsh weather. We now use loop style Car Tie Down Straps (https://amzn.to/47bOr1d). We use the tie down through the spokes which is much easier than going through the wheel, just make sure you secure the strap at the proper height so that it is not going to pull on the wheel and make it rotate which would result in a loose strap. We use the diagonal method for the straps as it prevents the car from moving sideways on the trailer and ending up at an angle which can be an issue with straps at a straight angle. Here are videos of our setup below.
To monitor your tire pressure and temperature while towing, there are inexpensive trailer TPMS that also monitor temperatures. Check the video below and find all the product links on our Amazon storefront at https://amzn.to/4uvInd9
To monitor both inside and behind the enclosed trailer, we are using these wireless cameras: https://amzn.to/3QM38CV
The video below show the install, tapping the power from the marker lights.
In this video we are reviewing the 2 electric tongue jacks that we have been using for many years:
Enclosed trailer: Husky HB4500 4500 lbs. Brute Power Jack: https://amzn.to/4v44us5
Open trailer: Quick Products JQ-3500SMB - 3,650 lbs. Capacity: https://amzn.to/3Qk040c
The plug guard mentioned in the video is this one: https://amzn.to/4fccba5
Our Amazon storefront with the trailer essential list can be found here: https://amzn.to/4uvInd9
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases made from the links we provide. (at no cost to you, you still enjoy the same discounts and prices as usual)
Your tow vehicle hitch receiver will never be at the correct height with your trailer as the ride height will vary depending on load. Having an adjustable drop hitch receiver is usually a must. We have used the Weigh Safe aluminum drop hitch receivers with great success, excellent resistance to corrosion compared to steel receivers. Here are the links for the 2" (on our Jeep) and 2.5" (on the 2500HD) shank versions:
Weigh Safe Adjustable Trailer Hitch Ball Mount - 6" Adjustable Drop Hitch for 2" Receiver: https://amzn.to/41N7lrW
Weigh Safe 180-Degree Trailer Hitch - Compatible with 2.5" Receivers - 6" Drop adjustable: https://amzn.to/4dthEIY
Coupler locks don't do much, most of them are really weak and cause more issues rusting in the coupler than they are effective (see video below).
We have had more luck with a simple pad lock like this one that we have used since 2020 on our enclosed trailer: https://amzn.to/4tY3DIq
For the hitch receiver, we use this lock: https://amzn.to/4nnrWxi
For the slider lock in the Weigh Safe hitch, use this lock: https://amzn.to/4tlBzxC
MAKE SURE YOU LUBE YOUR LOCKS REGULARLY OR THEY WILL SEIZE!
We used these keyed alike locks for the doors of the enclosed trailer: https://amzn.to/4ffRgD0
Here is how we are organizing tools and spare parts in the Frog Racing enclosed trailer:
Trailer tires use a different load rating specification as shown on the chart below. The load rating (LR) correspond to a ply rating (PR) that describes how many layers of fabric (such as polyester or nylon) and steel cords are embedded in the rubber that provide the tire structure, strength, and load-carrying capacity. For example, our open trailer comes stock with C load rating tires (6 ply) that are only rated 1760lbs, so 2 of them meet the spec for the 3500lbs axles of the trailer but we have upgrades to D rated tires that are rated to 2040lbs or 4080lbs per axle for additional safety.
Similarly our enclosed trailer uses 225/75R15 tires that we upgraded from D load range to E to have an extra cussion of safety over the 5000lbs rating of the axle.
We have had blow outs on all sorts of tires (brand name or not) and we switched to a schedule where we don't keep the tires for more than 2 full racing seasons.
Currently we use these tires on our open trailer: Suntek HD Trail 2 Trailer Radial Tires-ST205/75R14 105/101M Load Range D: https://amzn.to/3OSB8wR
In this video we look at the regular maintenance procedure for trailers with typical Dexter-like axles equipped with electric brakes. We show the common cleanup and regrease procedure as well as brake adjusting.
We address common issues like stuck rotors, broken shoe pads and frozen adjuster wheels.
Parts:
Brake Assembly, 10" x 2-1/4" (open trailer 3500lbs axles): https://amzn.to/4bBrtBR
Brake Assembly 12" X 2" (enclosed trailer 5k lbs axles): https://amzn.to/4njrRdT
Trailer Breakaway Kit with battery: https://amzn.to/48S4MZP
Trailer Breakaway switch: https://amzn.to/4tobDS4
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases made from the links we provide. (at no cost to you, you still enjoy the same discounts and prices as usual)