g7stator

It had been theorised that the cheapo G7 250W stators (wemoto £35 on a good day) can be used with an ignitech. They can indeed! got mine running today. Not many issues but I'll run through anyway. Firstly, this is the stator in question:

Leads are plenty long enough, but connectors that come with it are female and need to be male. Not too much of an issue if you have the old wiring (which I didn't - kindly supplied by reggie as was copious amounts of help) Also that black tube IS NOT heat shrink (ask me how I know, gwan, gwan, gwan) So you'll be needing some of these:

Get them from autoelectricsupplies.co.uk or ebay (towzatronics does good multiple postage discount, think they were listed as 6.3mm - DON'T get the ones they sell at wilcos - they're too short. These ones will actually be longer than the ones on the bike but only slightly and they fit just fine. I have some[/i] spare if anyones desperate but only some. You remove the old ones from the block by sticking a fine screwdriver in the indent of the slot holding the blade from the connecting side and pushing the old blade through - here I've used needle nose pliers and balanced the camera on my ears (does it show?)

Next issue, the G7 doesn't have an inbuilt earth, but since you now have a big empty space at the rear of the engine where the advance pulser was and you'll have plenty of room in the mini loom in a minute you can wire an earth there. Heres the original mini loom:

Now the top left pale blue arrow is your blue/white coils - this needs pulling out, the lower blue arrow is the stator coils which need replacing with the lovely white ones on your shiny new stator using the spade connectors above. The green bracket shows the neutral light switch which I've actually wired seperately since I resleeved the mini loom and it was tidier my way. (don't have to follow me though)and the bottom yellow arrow is your earth which can be wired to one of 3 screw holes in the very rear of the casing where the advance pulser was:

Then you can strip out wires on pins 3 and 7. I stripped these completely from the mini loom and ran new earth wires through (had to widen a couple holes in the plastic grommet and sealed any redundant ones with black silicone) So my revised mini loom looks like this: (Ignore the scotchlok, following advice from Reggie on multiple redundancy of Earths, i actually ran 2 earths from the engine case in the end, one for the ignitech and one to the main earth strap.

Then I dry fitted everything, use same torque values as original which I think were 10 ft lb and stick a meter on EVERYTHING! using the pin out above, though now you're only worried about pins 1-6 which should be all you have left. And the white wires from the stator where you want high resistances on all phases of the stator to earth and about 1-1.5 ohms between any two phases. Putting it all back together - my stator was actually slightly bigger than the original reducing all round clearance between it and the rotor from 2mm to 1mm!!! however this didn't seem to be an issue and nothing has fouled. Since I was tidying my loom anyay I've done a dedicated feed to the red for the ignitech. Then it's just follow the new club anthem: "White to Yellow, Orange to Pink, Green to black and white"[/i] Plug the "new" connector block from the stator into the reg rec, and main connector from mini loom to ignitech and Bob's yer Mother's Brother. So here's the video of it running for 1 second cos I can't use my camera properly:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/36595080@N07/3550617375/

Edit November 11th 2012

In order to streamline the process for someone doing this their first time I took some more pictures after doing it again last week.

First lets look at the plug connectors for the ignitech. If you look on the ignitech side you will notice a bit of redundancy. The 3 and 7 wires can be clipped and removed along with the wires to the blue/white plug since they won't be needed anymore.

Ok so here's the stator and I already pulled back the 3 and 7 wires. Here in order to remove things it's easier just to take some wire cutters and clip the 3, 7 wires, the blue/white wires that go to the smaller 2 wire plug and the 3 yellow wires going to the dead or dying stator.

Then pull all of that out at the grommets by the stator.

Here's the orange and blue wire that come out of the larger plug that go to the ignitech. They can be removed because the pulsar in the rear cover is also going to be removed.

Also there is a green wire that goes from pin #5 to the stator. On the stock stator it's actually screwed to the back of the stator. If that connector doesn't come out right just clip it off and install a new one. This is what will be left of the harness.

In this picture I left the left piece installed on the crank for weight balance issues even if it isn't an issue. It wasn't hurting anything so it stayed. But the right piece can be removed since that's what those orange and blue wires that were removed went to.

That green ground wire can then be screwed to where the pulsar was located in the rear cover and this is what the finished product looks like.