Cheap Alternative Gl Trunk Relocator

Here are the photos of a different trunk extender, courtesy of Joe Farwell. There is no welding

needed to make this setup. Just note, that the extender came with a bike Joe recently purchased, it

is not something he put together.

Joe also says, “I too would have thought that switching the down-support "U" to the rearward location

would be better for support, but where it is works really well. This thing doesn't wiggle or move at all,

even with 50+ lbs of pressure on it. You could seriously over-load the trunk and then ride the pot-holes of

the Alaskan hi-way and never have an issue. Having the supports more towards the front also looks a

little cleaner as it tucks them up by the tail light, and since they have been painted to match the bike you

almost don't notice them at all.

I have seen better and I have seen worse extenders, but because this one is easy to fabricate and

doesn't require welding it has some merit.”

But … There are severalof things that I would change. I would hook this up to the top bolt and

not the lower one. That would accomplish a couple of things. First, it would put the backrest pad

up higher and give better support. Secondly, it would help to eliminate the scratches on the trunk,

when you release the handles.

Also, you could make a plate that would raise the trunk even higher, bolt to both seat bolts and

could also be bolted to the “U” bar … again no welding needed and you wouldn’t have to

eliminate the painted seat tail piece.

Personally, I would have the down brace down from the rear of the “U” for less unsupported

hanging weight.

Finally, as you scroll down you will see that the design had a problem that could easily overcome

with the use of spacers of some time.

Joe, thank you for the photos.

Joe has given me more information that really makes sense. Here it is below.

As you can see there are 3 basic parts:

 A large "U", that I will call part "A", that extends from the grab bar bolt hole to the rear of the

trunk.

 A second large "U", that I will call part "B". This part is the main support, and goes from the front

mount of the trunk downwards to the signal/bag brackets.

 And part "C", a small "U" that provides support for the rear mount area of the trunk.

A - From it's bolt holes at the grab bar back to the rearmost edge, this U shaped part is 19" long. It is 9-

1/2" wide.

B - This large U has a slight "hip" shape to it, so it fits under the trunk better. From it's bolt holes that

secure it to the signal/bag bracket, to its top-most surface, it is 12-5/8" long. At it's top-most surface,

where it nests against the trunk, it is 7-1/2" wide. At the point where it bolts to part A, it is 9-1/2" wide. It

is bolted to part A so that it extends 3-1/4" above the bolt hole in part A.

 The bottom 5" of each leg of part B is twisted 90 degrees, so it can be mounted with the bolts that

secure the cross bar to the signal/bag brackets.

C - This small U is 2-1/4" high from its bolt holes that secure it to part A to its top-most surface that bolts

up against the trunk. It's top-most surface is 8-3/4" wide. It is 9-1/2" wide at the point where it bolts to

part A.

Part B bolts to part A at points that are 6-5/8" rearward from the grab bar bolt holes in part A.

Part C bolts to part A at points that are 13-5/8" rearward from the grab bar bolt holes in part A.

The steel used throughout is 1/8"x1", standard hardware store steel stock. None of the hardware used to

bolt B to A and C to A appears to be larger than 3/8". When I go to put this back on my project all

bolts will be upgraded to at least grade 5.