Spanish Wardrobe

Project on a fully researched outfit from the skin out

1490-1530

Definations:

Brial-Full unfitted dress

Saya-Fitted bodice with full skirt attached at Waistline

cebti-Silk

Chemise

Drawers

So far what I have found is that Drawers , at least from the female usage, originated with the moors. By the 16th century they were commonplace in Spain and in quite a few wardrobe accounts of nobles, including the Queens of Spain. They were made in Linen, cotton,satin and in one instance...fur lined. So in deciding what pattern to use for the drawers I thought to look towards the Moorish forerunners. It is said that the Italians got their ideas for Drawers from the Spaniards so my next point of reference was to look at the Italian Styles. As the ends were not seen in the earlier examples it is not know whether it was cuffed or just held in by the hose. I will make my hose of white linen past the knees and open legged. That way I can wear them in the 'moorish' style or Italian style (Depending on hot it is!) All the Moorish types were done in white Linen or Cotton (Yes Cotton is Period for the Mediterranean region!) though wardrobe accounts mentioned Yellow Satin as well.

Construction-Drawers were based off looking at the patterns of both Italian and Middle Eastern Drawers...as one was the ancestor, the other came after the spanish drawers. I made them with Linen with Linen thread to sew them. I used period seaming techniques with a each piece folded over and seamed with a running stitch and then whip stiched each piece together.

Hose

Underskirt

Farthingale

Recorded fabrics used for saya verdugadas (Anderson 208-9):

• 1. Cebti (silk), verdugos in crimson, green, white, brown, orange, blue, or silvered silk

  2. Velvet verdugos on cebti, brocaded satin, cloth of silver

  3. White damask or satin verdugos on crimson or green velvet, mulberry velvet, mulberry brocade, and crimson brocaded velvet

  4. Same colored taffeta verdugos on taffeta skirt

  5. Same-coloured velvet verdugos on satin or damask

  6. Blue velvet verdugos on blue damask half-hooped skirt (media verdugada)

  7. Brown velvet verdugos on brown satin media verdugada

Dress

Headwear

Accessories

Complete Outfits:

Next Outfits:

http://www.spanishseamstress.org/kingdom-as-2010/

http://ablackram1.tripod.com/new_page_1.htm