DIY Led - Linear Design v2
(Work In Progress)INTRODUCTION
Date: April 2021
Eleven years later, I keep going back to this style of design. I really like the "linear" or commonly call "bar" type of lights. You can simply add or remove or change any of the bars without bringing the whole light rig down. Very similar to the T5 where the user can replace the lights depending on the spectrum that they want.
Here is version 1 in case you want to know more about it.
WHAT IS CURRENTLY AVAILABLE OUT THERE
As of this writing, there are several products out there that you can buy now if you are not the DIY type.
And many others.
THE LED CHIPS
On my v1 design, I used CREE 3W led chips. This time, I will be using what ever is in the original donor light.
But I would like to pay special attention to the spectrum this time.
BLUE BAR
I used all the blues I can find. Royal Blue, Blue, Violet, and Actinics.
WHITE BAR
For the whites, I used a combination of cool whites and warm whites. Emphasis on the warm side.
THE STEPS
Step 1 - Find a donor light.
Black boxes are a very good candidate. Something that is free or bought really cheap.
This one is an 80 chip light fixture with dimmable drivers.
Step 2 - Source your aluminum bar.
What is readily available to me are the 1x1x96 aluminum bars from a box store nearest to me. I am currently using it for a 40 breeder, and a 32 inch bar will fit nicely. And with that size, I can make 3 bars out of 96. Win win.
I need to cut one of the side open so heat can escape. The previous design heats up fast and it burned the led chips in the end. I used a table saw to make the opening.
Step 3 - Remove the chips and lenses.
This takes some time to get used to. You need at least 90 watt soldering iron to heat the solder and a small flat screw driver to wedge the legs up while heating.
Here is a youtube video (not mine) that shows how it is done. https://youtu.be/Mwfv1LvVw0w?t=109
Step 4 - The design.
What will dictate on the number of led chips is the driver that will drive it.
In my case, the driver that we harvested can support 20 pcs of 3w led chips.
Then I divided 20 into four groups. Each group will have 5 led chips.
Then maybe mount it in such a way that it curves so that the focus points inside the tank.
Step 5 - Printing the lens holder bracket.
Lets start printing the lens holders. Using PETG filament for more strength.
I will be using bolt and nuts to hold it down to compress the lens and lens holder and the chip to the aluminum bar for better heat transfer.
Step 6 - Modify the lens holder.
I dremelled out a portion of the lens holder to make way for wires that will be connecting the led chips.
Step 7 - Assembly.
As mentioned earlier. I am using bolt and nuts to secure the lens and holder, thus compressing the chip to the aluminum bar.
Also, I am using thermal tape this time. I used thermal paste from version 1. It makes life easier, and also future chip replacement and maintenance.
I also 3d printed a template or jig so I can mark where the chips will be , making it easier to align it to the 3d printed lens holder bracket.
Note. I made a mistake of aligning the tape parallel to the bar. I redid this and made it 45 degree angle, inline with the wire. This will also protect the wire from touching the aluminum bar and making a short.
Step 8 - Print the curved bracket.
So I ended up with this design. Based on the image on step 4 above, I wanted it curve so that the light does not focus outside of the tank. And for this to work, the lights needs to be at least 1 foot above the water for the curve design to work.
Because of the 3D printer size limitation, I need to print it in two parts and then assembled together.
Step 9 - The Final Look.
What do you think? I actually like it a lot. Compared to my original design back in 2010.
This design can handle from one led bar up to maximum of 5 led bars.