Zappers
My research into zappers has gone from a "Clark" zapper to a "Beck" zapper to a "Rife" zapper to my own homemade versions. Dr Clark has a book called "The Cure For All Diseases" in which she tells how to make a universal zapper amoung many other things. It is based on a 555 timer IC and all the parts are readily available. The Beck design uses a relay to reverse polarity and runs at lower frequencies. Rife devices use an Argon tube and he used a RF transmitter to run it, some newer devices leave out the RF driver. I have not found these devices to be as effective for me as the magnetic coil devices have been.
Types of Zappers (Contact Frequency generators).
Beck Fixed frequency 4 HZ
Clark Fixed frequency 32KC
Selectable Frequency (My design - 2 Hz to 32 Kc)
Computerized Frequency generator
Bob's High Voltage zapper / ozone generator
Rife Audio Frequency Drivers
Rife Modulated CB Drivers (27 Mhz)
Rife Modulated 4-5 Mc Drivers (This is what Rife Used)
My universal zapper
This picture is of my homemade zapper. The zapper has either 9 or 18 volts to power it and uses a 4060 to supply 32 Kc from a crystal oscillator and divide it down to 2 Hz. A switch allows you to select the frequency. An optional LED on the 2 Hz output will tell you if it is working properly. The outputs go to two 4 to 6 inch pieces of 1/2 inch copper pipe that you hold on to. A simple 4049 inverter IC can be added to get a reverse polarity output like what is used in the Beck zapper design. Sorry it did not get included in the schematic.
My High Voltage zapper
This device is not only a zapper but it also produces ozone. The design was taken from plans for the EMEM device found elsewhere on the Internet. This may be listed under Rife devices because when used with a Argon plasma tube it is considered to be a Rife device. Instead of using a Plasma tube I use a 8.5 by 11 inch sheet of copper covered fiberglass under a 10 by 14 inch sheet of glass from a picture frame. Aluminum foil would likely work instead of the copper plate as well. You make sure your feet are insulated, I stand on a sheet of 1/2 inch thick plexiglass, and place one hand on the sheet of glass. If you touch anyone re a grounded object be prepared to get a NASTY shock. While using this device your body will assume the potential of the high voltage coming out of it. The power supply is any insulated 12 to 16 volt 1 to 2 amp AC adapter.
The picture shows the FET on a heat sink and the car ignition transformer. Cheaper power FET's will work as well. I am actually using one marked H6NA80HI (That means 6 amps at 800 volts) that was removed from a switching power supply. The left lead of the FET is the input, the middle is the output and the right lead is the ground. Do not actually ground the device! By ground I mean the negative lead from the 12 volt AC adapter. The right picture shows the copper plate with the glass plate on top of it.
In the wireing diagram I left out the capacitor, all it does is reduce the rise and fall times and increase the output by 10% to 20%. The 1 K ohm reisitor is also optional, it protects the FET from static and prevents it from conducting when there is no input signal. The Power FET should be mounted on a heatsink such as a piece of aluminum. The heatsink in the picture is overkill it does not get that hot.
