Seamstress' Stable

I have a sort of problem, with... well... collecting sewing machines.

My sewing machines. Let me show you them! (Yes I am a dork.)

Jade: 1963 Husqvarna Viking 19e

Surprisingly for me, the 'e' designation stands for "economy". Although this machine is incredibly sturdy and full featured (including a reduction gear, three needle positions, droppable feed dogs, sleeve arm, button hole assist lever, dual thread support) it was considered the "economy" model because it didn't have a cam port. Jade is my primary machine because she's bloody well bulletproof; I've sewed everything from tulle to leather on her. Theoretically, she's a "portable" model, though really it's more like "luggable". 1963 was one of the last years when sewing machines were made completely out of cast metal! Jade weighs a TON. Unfortunately for me, her accessory box was missing from the carry case, but the bed extender, pedal, and manual were still there. Purchased at Snowline Thrift on the way back from Valhalla Renaissance Faire in 2002, for a whopping $10.

Arachne: 1923 White Rotary model 12 treadle sewing machine

From the White Family Rotary series, designated by the "FR" as the first two letters of the serial number. Cassette bobbin, two thread spools, reversible, head-mounted dial tensioner, low-shank snap on feet (Greist style). In older treadle cabinet with chinoserie decoration and painted 18" ruler, circa 1880ish. Rescued from that graveyard of antiques, L-Street Thrift in Davis CA. Price: $110.

Cricket: 1955 Singer 319w

319's were light industrial machines made by Singer between 1955-57, and primarily sold to garment pieceworkers on the east coast who needed a sturdy, fast machine to do their work. Cricket has the typical "Singer button" pedal, which was intended for mounting in a knee-lever cabinet. Thankfully, the cabinet I found her in *is* a knee-lever cabinet. This was the first of the Singer line to have zig-zag stitch, and also incorporated five lever-activated built-in cams in the rear body of the machine. Also included is a cam port, so that optional black plastic "fashion discs" could be used. Interestingly, you can raise more than one lever at once, combining the patterns in interesting ways. The machines with the "W" designation were manufactured in the Singer Bridgeport Connecticut plant that was bought from Wheeler & Wilson. They were also made in black, dark green, and a tan combination. The period of manufacture was very short because Singer was in litigation with Bernina over the patents surrounding the built-in cams in the machine's arm. (Bernina industrial zig-zags still use a very similar internal cam system, so I'm not sure who won that one.) There are no date records available. Originally these machines used an odd size needle designated "206", but these are so hard to find that most were retimed to use normal shank needles. This leads to the longer needle striking the bobbin cassette and taking chunks out of it, but once there's a notch worn in (and you've smoothed it over with some crocus cloth) no ill effects are noticeable.

Lethe: 1924 Singer 66-1-4-6 (Model 31) "Red Eye"

(Named Lethe, "Forgetfulness", for a couple of reasons. ;) ) These machines were produced from the turn of the century up until about 1925, so Lethe is a fairly late individual of the model. The "red eye" pattern was only offered in America - 66-1s in Europe and elsewhere usually had an Egyptian lotus motif instead. Strangely, even though this is an American model, the head plate shows the lotus design, which makes me think it might have been replaced with parts scavenged off a different machine. Although this seems like a late model, it's very simple - there's a single screw to adjust stitch length (instead of a sliding lever) and no reverse is available. Since the case is missing I can only speculate that Lethe originally came with an electric motor from the bolt-holes on the read end under the flywheel, though from what I can tell this model was outfitted interchangeably and could be converted to treadle power with very little trouble. I can't tell at this point if the lack of rubber gasket on the bobbin winder indicates that it was set up to work on a leather treadle belt, or simply that whoever had it last didn't take very good care of it. This is my only machine that takes drop-in bobbins, and thankfully it has a very cute little spring-powered ejector button. A very clever, well engineered machine, if not really full featured.

Juno: 1990s Bernina 950 semi-industrial

I went for a good number of years without actually acquiring new machines, and then I realized - hey, I should get one to be the end-all-be-all, the last sewing machine I should need for home sewing. (Right? Right? Because if I ever need something better than this, I will have gone into full scale garment manufacture or be working back in a costume shop.) So this one got the name "Juno", because she's the queen of the sewing room.

The Bernina 950 is an oddball machine, made to fit in an industrial table with an industrial motor, but only sew 2000 stitches per minute, which is about half of what a standard straight-stitch only Juki will do. Whatever. Juno has the features I want (a buttonholer! for pete's sake, no more eyeballing buttonholes using Jade's zigzag!), and several utility pattern stitches (blind hem! three-stitch zig-zag! I can do trousers and elastics! muahahahahaha!), and a few spiffy decorative ones. Also? She doesn't bolt off the mark like so many industrials do - she's geared more like a home-sewing machine, so I don't have to worry about accidentally sewing through my hand or something when she sucks in all of the fabric I have ready and anything else that might happen to be nearby and not bolted down. (Seriously, my old Mercury industrial was like that.)

I was so good for so long, and then I started buying machines again...

Here's the damage:

- A B. Eldredge high-arch chain stitch machine (looks like a Wilcox & Gibbs knockoff), without motor

-A 1939 Singer 201-2 (that I still need to fix)

-A White with cast-in decoration and crackle finish (1X36122)

-A White Family Rotary (Ito) owned by a textile artist and jewelrymaker (FR2891308)

-A Bernina Record 530, missing its case (5712464)

Machines that I've loved and let go:

- A Singer 112-4 Hatmaking machine (sold to Strawbenders hat makers)

- An Elna Carina that was literally foisted on me since I taught a machine repair class

- A 1955 Elna Supermatic