Form Follows Fabric
Jay Kanti
Jay Kanti
The technique of inducing formal capacities within a flexible material condition. Form follows fabric here the form is defined by the technique of stitching, folds, patterns, stiffening etc by which the fabric takes its overall form. Basic making techniques of fabric are stitching, folding, knotting, cutting, etc. All these techniques are a part of our everyday practice say for eg. if your button is detached from the shirt you stitch it for your self, Women wearing a saree the techniques of folding/draping give the overall form of saree to the fabric. And also the idea of tailor sitting at streets they don't design clothes but they have the skill to stitch anything based on your requirement. And we usually give our clothes to designers who give to tailors for stitching the fabric. So this idea comes from the domestic practice of tailoring community. Experimenting with fabric as a material that is available at everybody's place. ( All cloth are fabrics but all fabrics are not cloth.) The making technique used is hand stitching as needles and threads are easily available at home and one knows how to work with it. Stiffness is a special property of the fabric. The fabric tends to keep standing without any support. It is one of the most widely used parameters to judge bending rigidity. Different patterns can be achieved through folding, sewing, stitching, and heating fabrics. Patterns, stiffeners, stitches give a sense of rigidity to the fabric and material becomes thick comparatively and also Pulling of stitch gives rigidity to the fabric as the fabric shrinks and gives certain kind of strength. The observation was when a single thread from the sleeves of your t-shirt is pulled the sleeves change its form. Also, the small picnic bags that we used to carry the act of pulling the straps used to close the bag from the top.
So the aim here is to explore different techniques of stitches, folds, patterns and observe the change in the overall form of fabric. Surface Manipulation of 2d fabric through various processes of heating stitching folding knotting and also further processing it to give the overall 3d form ie extrusion in the z-axis.
How pulling the stitch can give form to the fabric? (1) with a type of reinforcements (2)with a different type of patterns. Here the technique of stitch, folds based on its type, geometry is explored and the type of stitch, geometry of patterns and reinforcements used are important to inform the form and also the direction of pulling the stitch.
Trying out experiments with different mixes stiffeners for the fabric to make it rigid seeing the difference before its application and after its application.
AIM
To test stiffness of different mixes on cotton fabric and see what happens to the fabric when stiffener is applied onto it.
MATERIALS
cotton fabric , cement , corn starch, fevicol, water, Balloon , Bowl.
METHOD
Make 3 different mixes containing same amout of water and fevicol/starch/cement in different bowl
Take pieces of cotton fabric of same sizes and dip it into the mixes and let it dry
For the second one lay the fabric on the surface of balloon and then apply stiffener to it and then let it dry.
OBSERVATION
After the drying of fabrics the one which was dipped into (fevicol + water) was found to be stiffer compared to other two.
And the fabric which was laid on the surface of balloon took the the form of the surfce after drying.
AIM
Manipulation of fabric surface by making patterns using different methods. Patterns would make the fabric stiffer.The pattern is a combination of shapes repeated in a recurring and regular arrangement. It can be a triangular composition or an octagonal lattice etc.
Predetermined pattern using different kind of stitches and by ironing it on the grid of fabric surface
patterns obtained using heat gun.
MATERIALS
Cotton fabric, polyester fabric, Heat gun, iron, needles, thread , scale.
METHOD (Predetermined pattern)
Make grid on surface of fabric by masking it.
Different types of stitches on grid would help achieve different patterns.
Ironing the grid lines would help achieve the pattern as ironing the fabric at high temprature would make the fabric shrink and stiffer.
Pattern obtained using iron
Here the the polyester fabric is folded into the desired shape and ironed it at high temprature.
Pattern obtained using iron
Here the the polyester fabric is folded into the desired shape and ironed it at high temprature.
Pattern obtained through stitching
Here the pattern depends on the geometry of the stitch .
Pattern obtained through stitching
Here the pattern depends on the geometry of the stitch .
METHOD(pattern)
Taking the fabric that shrinks due to heat eg.polyester, chiffon.
Applying heat with help of heat gun from some distance at 230W.
Chiffon Fabric
Polyester Fabric
Heat Gun on Fabric
Chiffon Fabric
OBSERVATION
The patterns obtained made the fabric stiffer compared to the fabric without pattern.
Patterns obtained through stitch were more stiffer compared to other.
It also creates visual effects on the observer.
To see how the act of pulling the stitch gives form to fabric. (But the act of pulling the stitch makes the cloth completely shrink at one point so using different patterns , stitches, Geometry,plastic sticks to restrict at some point and see what form does the fabric take.
3.1
AIM
To see how pulling the stitch gives overall form to the fabric. Here the direction of pulling the stitch gives different forms to the fabric and in this case the pattern restricts the fabric to shrink completely.
MATERIALS
Cotton fabric, cotton/wool threads, Needles
METHOD
The flat fabric having pattern is stitched in a way to pull the stitch in different directions.i.e y,-y and -x,y
The type of stitch used is running stitch.
Then the stitch is pulled in different directions based on the direction the form achieved would be different.
The arrows represents direction of pulling the stitch here the direction is y,-y
The cloth shrinks but not completely the pattern restricts the fabric to shrink completely and helps achieve the form.
The form acheived was a parabolic curve.
The arrows represents direction of pulling the stitch here the direction is y,-x
The cloth shrinks but not completely the pattern restricts the fabric to shrink completely and helps achieve the form.
Achieved Form
OBSERVATIONS
Once the stitch is pulled the fabric shrinks and because of the pattern the fabric takes the overall form.
Form achieved were different because of the direction of pull.
On release of the stitch the fabric loses its form.
3.2
AIM
To include the stitch to pull within the pattern and also see how the form is achieved before and after the application of stiffener.
MATERIALS
Cotton fabric, cotton/wool threads, Needles, Fevicol, Water.
METHOD
The flat fabric having pattern is stitched in a way to pull the stitch in different directions.
The type stitch used is running stitch.
The stitch is included in the pattern and after that the stitch is pulled.
After this the stitched fabric is sprayed with stiffner and then pulled.
Front view of the fabric
The arrow shows direction of stitch and how the fabric is stitched within the pattern.
Form achieved after application of stiffener was sine curve
Form achieved before the application of stiffener
Form achieved after the application of stiffener
3.3
AIM
To see how the fabric takes form after pulling the stitch when plastic sticks are tied to fabric
MATERIALS
Cotton fabric, cotton/wool threads, Needles, Plastic sticks.
METHOD
The plastic sticks are tied to the fabrics at equal distance.
The fabric is stitched at the ends.
The type of stitch used is running stitch.
The red arrow shows the direction to pull the stitch.
Backside of the fabric
Image showing pull of stitch
Form achieved was parabolic curve because of the plastic sticks.
OBSERVATIONS
The fabric takes the form because of the plastic sticks and the way it is tied to the fabric.
After pulling the stitch the direction changes.
On release of the stitch the fabric deforms.
The force required to pull the stitch was greater compared to the fabric having pattern.
3.4
AIM
To see how the fabric takes form after pulling the stitch when plastic sticks are tied to fabric
MATERIALS
Cotton fabric, cotton/wool threads, Needles, Plastic sticks.
METHOD
The plastic sticks are tied to the fabrics at equal distance.
The fabric is stitched at the ends.
The type of stitch used is running stitch.