The case is one of the most important pieces of a custom mechanical keyboard. That is not because it is the most functional piece, however. The case is important because other parts of the keyboard are designed to fit it. Determining which case to use is generally the first step in completing a part list for a keyboard.

Cases come in a variety of different materials. Custom keyboard cases are often made of aluminum, however, plastic cases and acrylic cases are widespread as well. There are many other options for materials too. As previously discussed, custom keyboard features are nearly limitless in design.

Lighting compatibility is another thing to consider when choosing a case. Some PCBs have LEDs that provide an "underglow" effect, however, without a transparent or translucent case or case midlayer, this lighting will not be visible.

NOTE: the case, PCB, and plate need to be compatible. These three parts are often sold as bundles to prevent any compatibility issues.

The PCB of a keyboard is its electronic component. There are a variety of features to look for when deciding which PCB to choose.

• LED/RGB LED Support

• Underglow LEDs

• Key Layout Compatibilities

• Wireless Connectivity

• USB Connection Type (USB C, Mini USB, etc.)

• QMK Compatibility

  • • QMK is an open source firmware that can be used to flash a PCB. This can be used to alter placement of keys. For instance, this firmware could be used to switch the "1" and "2" keys, so pressing the 1 key and then the 2 key would type "21." QMK can also be used to adjust lighting and even add multiple key layers.

• Plate and Case compatibility

• Hot-Swappable PCB

  • • A hot-swappable PCB does not require any soldering. There are slits built into the PCB that are designed in such a way that when the switches' pins are inserted, they connect fully without needing to be soldered.

NOTE: the case, PCB, and plate need to be compatible. These three parts are often sold as bundles to prevent any compatibility issues.

Plates can be purchased in a variety of different materials, similar to cases. The plate of a keyboard is generally what holds the switches in place. Therefore, the rigidity of the plate can be felt when typing on a keyboard. A few different plate materials include aluminum, brass, and carbon fiber.

Keyboard switches are the most influential part of a keyboard regarding the "feel" of the keys. There are many different switches in production, but they are classified into three different categories. These include clicky, tactile, and linear switches.

• Clicky

  • • Clicky switches are generally what individuals think of when mechanical keyboards become a topic of conversation. These switches have a "bump" midway down the keypress, and when this bump is passed, the switch makes an audible clicking noise.

• Tactile

  • • Tactile switches are similar to clicky switches in that they both have a "bump" midway down the keypress. Tactile switches, however, do not make a clicking sound.

• Linear

  • • Linear switches are completely smooth. There is no "bump."

Besides the main category a switch is placed into based on feel, the second most defining factor of a switch is its weight. This weight refers to the amount of force required to press down the switch. Switches come in a variety of different weights from extremely light to extremely heavy to the point it would be very difficult to type on a keyboard full of them.

It should be noted when discussing the "bump" within a switch on both clicky and tactile switches that this "bump" can be placed anywhere along the keypress travel. Also, key actuation generally occurs as this "bump" is passed.

Since switches are so varied and switch preference is extremely subjective, it is a good idea to test many different switches before deciding which switch to order. This can be done by trying other keyboards that your friends have built, by going to a keyboard meetup, etc. Another way to do this testing is to order a switch tester. Switch testers are essentially non functional keyboards where each key is a different switch. It should be noted that pressing a single switch is not the same as typing on a keyboard full of those switches. Therefore, a switch tester should be used as a loose guide in determining which switch to order and nothing more.

Keycaps should never be overlooked when building a keyboard. Not only can there be compatibility issues with them, but they also have a large effect on the feel of a keyboard. There are seven main aspects of keycaps to consider:

• Material

  • • Custom keycaps generally come is one of two types of plastic, ABS, or PBT. Generally speaking, PBT plastic is preferred. One issue that sometimes arises with ABS plastic is keys begin to shine overtime. PBT plastic does this as well, except it takes much longer for any shine to develop. Personally, I also prefer the feel of PBT plastic over ABS. It should be noted, however, that some of the highest quality keycaps are made of thick ABS plastic, and that should not scare you away from them.

• Printing Process (how the legends are made)

  • • Double-shot

      • • Double-shot keycaps are made with two different plastics, one for the legend and one for the rest of the keycap. Due to this process, the legends on double-shot keycaps will never fade.

    • Dye Sublimated

      • • Dye sublimation is a process in which an image is printed onto a sheet, and then when the sheet is applied to the keycaps and heated, the image transfers. This method for printing keycaps is durable as it does not fade quickly. One neat thing about dye sublimation is that it can be used to print images, not just legends. Therefore there are some dye sublimated keysets of beautiful scenery etc.

    • Laser-etched

      • • Laser-etched keycaps are keys that have been "etched" by a laser. The laser melts a small portion of material on top of the keycap in order to mark a legend. Laser etched keys are generally fairly durable in that they do not easily fade, but it should be noted that double-shot keys and dye sublimated keys are generally preferred.

    • Pad printing

      • • Pad printing is a type of printing that should generally be avoided when ordering keycaps. This type of printing fades quickly, and as far as I am aware, its only advantage is its low cost. This is the type of printing used for keycaps on most non-mechanical office keyboards.

• Colorway

  • • The colorway of a keyset is totally subjective. There are tons of different keysets with varying color combinations from which to choose.

• Profile

  • • Keycap profile refers to the shape of a keycap. Some keys are designed flatter than others, and some retain the same height along each row of the keyboard while others do not.

• Thickness

  • • The thickness of a keycap can affect both its durability and its acoustics. Generally thicker keycaps are preferred.

• Layout Compatibility

  • • Some keyboard layouts require keys that may not be the standard size. For instance, the windows key in some layouts is smaller than others. It is important to be certain that whichever keyset you purchase has all of the necessary keys.

• LED Backlighting Compatibility

  • • Some keycaps have legends that are transparent or translucent so that LEDs under them can shine light through. This is something to consider if you are looking at adding LEDs to your keyboard.

Keyboard stabilizers are used to support larger keys. Without stabilizers, a key like the spacebar would only be mounted in the center, and it would essentially be able to sway like a teeter totter. Keyboard stabilizers help support these larger keys by keeping them level. There are three main types of stabilizers, and also a few ways to modify them.

• Stabilizer Types

  • • Cherry PCB Mounted Stabilizers

      • • Screw-in Stabilizers

          • • Screw-in stabilizers mount to the PCB and are screwed in from the bottom of the PCB. This is the sturdiest method for mounting a stabilizer, and it is often preferred.

        • Snap-in Stabilizers

          • • Snap-in Stabilizers are similar to screw-in stabilizers in that they both mount to the PCB, but the snap-in stabilizers are not as stable and can pop out.

    • Cherry Plate Mounted Stabilizers

      • • Plate mounted stabilizers are often avoided, as they can sometimes rattle when typing. They mount to the plate rather than the PCB.

    • Costar Stabilizers

      • • Costar stabilizers mount to keycaps differently than cherry stabilizers, and the process is more complex and frankly, an annoying task at times. These are decent stabilizers, but are often avoided by anyone who frequently changes their keycaps.

• Stabilizer Modifications (optional)

  • • Clipping

      • • An easy way to modify stabilizers is to clip the small feet at the bottom of the stabilizer insert flush with the rest of the insert. Clipping stabilizers helps to reduce stabilizer noise and also helps soften the impact of a stabilized keypress. Micro cutters can be used to clip stabilizers.

    • Lubrication

      • • Lubricated stabilizers rattle less and are often preferred. There are many different lubricants recommended for stabilizers. One I have used with success in the past is dielectric grease.

    • Bandages ("Band-Aid Mod")

      • • By cutting off a small piece of Band-Aid (the brown adhesive part) and placing it under the stabilizer, pressing a key all the way down to where part of the stabilizer contacts the PCB becomes both softer and much quieter.

LEDs are entirely optional when it comes to a custom keyboard. Note that not all PCBs are compatible with LEDs.

LEDs can come in different single colors, or as RGB LEDs that can change color. RGB LEDs are often preferred, but again, check the compatibility of the PCB.

A keyboard's cable needs to be compatible with the PCB, but aside from that they are essentially completely customizable. Cables can be made with different colorways in mind, and they can be made to different length, thickness, and coil specifications.

• • • Soldering Iron (variable temp recommended)

    • Brass or Stainless Steel Wool

    • Lead Solder

    • Fine Tweezers

    • Micro Cutters

    • Switch Puller

    • Keycap Puller

    • Solder Sucker

    • Precision Screwdrivers

This step is entirely optional. There are three modifications often done to stabilizers to help reduce rattle, sound, and feel. None of these modifications rely on the other, so any or all of them can be done together.

• Clipping Stabilizers

  • • Clipping the stabilizers involves clipping the "feet" of the stabilizer inserts (the piece that has the stem that connects to keycaps). Doing this allows for a more stable connection to the PCB when the stabilizer is pressed all the way down. This helps with both sound and feel. To accomplish this, take a pair of micro cutters and locate the stabilizer inserts. The bottom of the insert has a small "leg" or "foot" protruding out from the main section of the insert. Clip this off. Repeat this for each stabilizer insert.

• Lubing Stabilizers

  • • Lubing the stabilizers is a simple task that is easily accomplished. It can significantly improve the feel and sound of stabilizers. To lube the stabilizers, pick up a small amount of lubricant (dielectric grease as an example) with something that has a fine point like tweezers. Apply that lubricant to the sides of the insert and also apply some inside the insert where it connects to the stabilizer wire.

• Apply Band-Aid Mod to Stabilizers

  • • The Band-Aid mod helps to soften the impact of the stabilizer insert when it is fully pressed against the PCB. This also helps with the sound of keypresses as well. To Band-Aid mod stabilizers, first cut a small strip of the adhesive portion of a Band-Aid. This strip should be about 1/4" wide and 1/2"-3/4" long. Apply the bandages to the PCB where the stabilizer inserts will contact the PCB. A small amount of lubricant can also be applied to the top of the Band-Aid strips after they have been attached to the PCB if desired.

Installing stabilizers is a fairly simple task, however, you need to be extremely careful to ensure that the stabilizers are installed in the correct location, and that the right length of stabilizer is used for each key. If stabilizers are installed incorrectly and this is not realized until after soldering, you will need to desolder every LED and switch before you can correct your mistake. So please, double check that you install the right stabilizers correctly and in the proper places for your key layout.

Stabilizers are installed differently depending on the type of stabilizer. Plate mount stabilizers mount to the plate of the keyboard, and Cherry PCB mount stabilizers mount directly to the PCB. Screw-in stabilizers need to be attached to the PCB and then screwed in from the bottom. Snap-in stabilizers simply need to be "snapped' into the PCB.

After installing stabilizers and double checking they were installed correctly, attach the switches to the PCB by first inserting them into the plate and then insert their pins into the PCB. After all of the switches are installed, check to make sure that both pins on each switch are sticking through the PCB. If only one pin is showing, the other pin likely got bent and the switch needs to be removed and fixed before replacing it.

⚠ Warning: this process involves soldering, which can lead to dangers involving electrical hazards, hot surfaces, and toxic fumes. Ensure all soldering is done in a well ventilated area away from exposed liquids, and be cautious around hot surfaces including the soldering iron and recently soldered parts.

Note: This step is unnecessary if the PCB is hot-swappable.

Soldering may be an intimidating process, but in all reality it is not incredibly difficult or complex. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to solder in your switches:

Keep in mind that some parts of soldering are time sensitive. Try not to overheat anything by holding the soldering iron against it for an extended period of time.

1. Ensure the metal end of the soldering iron is not contacting anything.

2. Turn on the soldering iron.

3. Set the temperature of the soldering iron to around 675℉ and wait for it to heat up.

4. Apply a small amount of solder onto the tip of the soldering iron and wipe off excess onto brass or stainless steel wool. This helps to establish a proper thermal conductive connection.

5. Hold the soldering iron with one hand and the solder with the other.

6. Contact the tip of the soldering iron to both a pin of a switch and the small metal ring on the PCB directly next to the pin.

7. After around 5 seconds, contact the joint between the pin and the soldering iron with the solder, and slowly add solder until a cone is formed and the ring on the PCB is entirely covered with solder.

8. Lift the soldering iron and solder away from the solder joint at the same time.

9. Ensure that the cone has properly formed, and that solder completely connects the pin and ring on the PCB. If this is not yet accomplished, reapply the soldering iron to the solder until it melts, and add more solder.

10. After the joint is complete, move onto the next joint and repeat steps 5-9.

⚠ Warning: this process involves soldering, which can lead to dangers involving electrical hazards, hot surfaces, and toxic fumes. Ensure all soldering is done in a well ventilated area away from exposed liquids, and be cautious around hot surfaces including the soldering iron and recently soldered parts.

This step is extremely similar to soldering the switches onto the PCB. Most of these instructions are repeated, but with something like soldering please do not ignore them.

Keep in mind that some parts of soldering are time sensitive. Try not to overheat anything by holding the soldering iron against it for an extended period of time. With LEDs this is especially important. Overheating the LEDs even a small amount can lead to discoloration within the LED or can burn out the LED.

Note: Even though steps 1-4 may seem unnecessary, it is important to keep the iron clean, therefore they should be repeated for this step.

1. Ensure the metal end of the soldering iron is not contacting anything.

2. Turn on the soldering iron.

3. Set the temperature of the soldering iron to around 675℉ and wait for it to heat up.

4. Apply a small amount of solder onto the tip of the soldering iron and wipe off excess onto brass or stainless steel wool. This helps to establish a proper thermal conductive connection.

5. Hold the soldering iron with one hand and the solder with the other.

6. Contact the tip of the soldering iron to both a pin of a LED and the small metal ring on the PCB directly next to the pin.

7. After around 2 seconds, contact the joint between the pin and the soldering iron with the solder, and slowly add solder until a small cone is formed and the ring on the PCB is entirely covered with solder.

8. Lift the soldering iron and solder away from the solder joint at the same time.

9. Ensure that the cone has properly formed, and that solder completely connects the pin and ring on the PCB. If this is not yet accomplished, reapply the soldering iron to the solder until it melts, and add more solder.

10. After the joint is complete, move onto the next joint and repeat steps 5-9.

11. Using micro cutters, clip the excess length of the pins of the LEDs. They can be clipped right up against the completed solder joint.

After installing all of the switches and LEDs, it is important to test the keyboard to ensure that everything is working properly before you continue. To do this, plug the keyboard in to your computer using its USB cable. Test all of the keys. This can be done in a text document, or potentially within keyboard testing software. There are many different keyboard testing softwares available that can be easily found and downloaded online. Here is a link to a tester that can be used within a browser, avoiding any downloads: Link

After successfully testing the keyboard, the build is nearly complete. Next, install the grouping of the plate, PCB, and switches into the case. Depending on the case, mounting will vary. You may need to screw in the PCB or the plate etc.

After installing the plate, PCB, and switches into the case, finish assembling the case. This generally involves putting the top and bottom of the case together (potentially with a midlayer in between) and then screwing them all together from the bottom.

Putting on keycaps is a simple task, and the only mistakes you can make are easily correctable with a keycap puller. I recommend either using an image online of a keyboard or a physical keyboard as reference when putting on keycaps.

Simply put on each key in the correct place.

Note: if you notice something seems off, it probably is. Some keycap profiles utilize different heights of keys for each row, and some keysets include duplicate keys for different rows to be used with different layouts. Try to make sure that each key along a row is the same height. Along with this, ensure you use the correct length of the keys. For instance, spacebars can be different lengths. Just ensure that within each row, all of the keys are the same height. Otherwise, as long as the right key is in the right spot, everything should be perfect.

Hopefully, at this point the keyboard is complete and no issues have occurred. Enjoy your finished product!