Pre-built keyboards:

Note:

I did my best to choose keyboards that are often recommended. If you find another option that you believe may be viable, please ask someone in the community before you purchase it. There may very well be a reason that it is not on this list. Some of the more mainstream brands are generally not recommended, and with good reason. For instance, some of the mainstream brands use boards that have nonstandard bottom rows of keycaps, which means that it is very difficult to find a set of keycaps to replace the stock ones with. Also, some of the well known brands have pretty horrible build quality considering what you are paying. If you have any suggestion that could be added to this list, please by all means contact me. Also, if you have reasoning to suggest a keyboard be removed from this list, again, I'm all ears.

I want to mention that a lot of the information that I put on each keyboard is basic, and there is often a lot more that should be known before purchasing a keyboard. Whichever keyboard you are planning on purchasing after using my list, I urge you to do research into that particular keyboard. Look at some of the reviews etc. My list is not perfect. Please contact me if you determine any information regarding listed keyboards is incorrect so that it can be fixed promptly. Also, feel free to suggest other options that are not listed here as well. A link to the site's Discord server can be found here: Link

Site Guide:

I have decided to initially group keyboards by size. Different pages on the site will have different sized keyboards. I want to state here that the keyboards listed in certain pages are not necessarily exactly the size listed. For instance: I would include a 75% board with tenkeyless options, and a 65% keyboard would be on the 60% page. Please make note of this as you browse around. On each page, keyboards will be ordered by price, however make sure to consider price isn't everything.

You can navigate through this site using the links provided in the banner at the top of the page. (I highly recommend you read everything below first)

General Keyboard Information

Keyboard Components:

I believe that for you to be fully aware of what you are purchasing, you should know the different parts of a keyboard. Keyboards consist of a PCB (Printed Circuit Board), Plate, Switches, Keycaps, and a Case. Switches are soldered onto the pcb (unless the keyboard is hot-swappable), and most of the time they are actually mounted on a plate above the pcb. Below I have labeled the main parts of a keyboard.

Keyboard Layouts

Guide to the keyboard above: (Yeah I know it's not mechanical...)

Blue: Function Keys

Yellow: Number Keys

Pink: Navigation Cluster

Red: Numpad

Layout:

Keyboard layouts describe which keys are on a keyboard, and also where they are located. I currently am not planning on going into detail regarding "letter" key layouts such as QWERTY, DVORAK etc. The layouts I describe below are the physical This website has been organized by layout and then by price. Before you start browsing around and are overwhelmed by the vast amount of options, the different layouts are described below. This should help in narrowing down your search. I went ahead and linked to the different pages on the site next to each layout category, they're also at the very top of each page on the navigation banner.

Note: It may be helpful to look at the keyboard image below to have a better understanding of the differences between the different keyboard layouts.

Layers:

Before I talk about the different key layouts, I want to describe keyboard layers. Layers can be used to include keys that are not physically on the keyboard. For instance, on a 60% keyboard you can hold a key and press a number key for your computer to register a function key such as f5 or f8 as being pressed. This is a way to include the keys that are not physically there, which means that smaller keyboards that utilize layers are utilizing space, but are not really missing any keys that you may need, they just require more key combination patterns.

I also want to point out that with some of the more compact layouts, keycap sizes quickly become nonstandard. This is not really an issue if you appreciate the keycaps on the board, but if you decide to change them later on you will need to make sure you get a set that is accommodating of compact layouts. These sets are obviously more expensive, but most of the best keycap sets available are accommodating if you decide to go with the best of the best.

• Large: (~100%) Link

  • • Full Sized: This layout is the same as your standard keyboard. It includes everything you're used to, letters, numbers, function keys, the navigation cluster, and the numpad. Some of these options include four media keys at the top right of the keyboard, above the numpad. The image below does not have these keys. These keys generally include volume up, down, mute, and the other key varies pretty consistently. Note that with the media keys, the layout is actually nonstandard. There are quite a few keycap sets that accommodate for this, but make sure you find them. A full keyboard with media keys is 108 keys, rather than 104.

    • Southpaw layout: This layout is exactly like the Full Sized layout, except the numpad is on the left side of the keyboard.

    • 1800 Layout: This layout is similar to the full sized keyboard but is more compact. it does not have the media keys, it uses that extra space for some of the navigation cluster keys. This layout includes everything that a full sized keyboard includes except it is missing a few of the keys at the top of the navigation cluster that are generally not used anyways. The keyboards with this layout will be listed along with the full sized ones.

• Medium: (~75%) Link

  • • Tenkeyless: This option has everything besides the numpad and the four media keys that are sometimes included with full keyboards.

    • 75% layout: This option is essentially a more compact tenkeyless layout. It includes everything that a tenkeyless has except for a couple of the navigation cluster keys that are not often used. The keyboards with this layout will be listed along with the tenkeyless ones.

• Small: (~60%) Link

  • • 65% layout: This layout is similar to the 60% layout below, except it includes arrow keys and often times a few of the keys above the arrow keys in the navigation cluster. The keyboards with this layout will be listed along with the 60% ones.

    • Vibe: There is one keyboard (that I know of) that utilizes essentially a 60% layout, but includes a numpad on the right. This keyboard is the Vortex Vibe. If having a numpad is something essential to you, this would be a great option if you want something more compact. Know that you can purchase separate mechanical numpads though, so this does not have to be the only option. If there is a proper term for this layout, please let me know.

    • 62.5% layout: Now this isn't the proper term for these, and if there is a proper term for them let me know, but this includes keyboards that are 60%, but are more compact than the basic 60% to give space for arrow keys. These are not 65% keyboards at least in my mind, because they do not include any keys besides the arrow keys from the navigation cluster.

    • 60% layout: This option is a very compact and portable one. This layout includes your letters, numbers, and shift enter etc., but nothing else. Past these, you will have to press keys using layers like described above.

    • HHKB Layout: This layout began when the "Happy Hacking Keyboard" was created, but since other manufacturers have began to use this layout as well. This layout is similar to a 60% layout, but some of the key placements are changed. The biggest change is that the backspace/delete key is one row lower than it is on a standard keyboard. Make sure to do you research on this one.

• Tiny: (<60%) Link

  • • 40% layout: This layout is the extreme. I wouldn't recommend you get a 40% layout as your first compact layout. For someone who isn't used to using layers, these keyboards will likely be frustrating to use. These keyboards only include letters and keys like enter, shift, space, etc. There are no numbers, no function keys, no navigation keys, and no numpad.

    • If you go any smaller than 40% you might be losing it, but you do you. I won't be covering anything smaller in this guide, however.

Alternative Types of Keyboards:

• • • Ortholinear:

There is no specific layout required for a board to be ortholinear. Ortholinear keyboard are keyboards that align columns with each other rather than rows. To try to give an example, if you look at a standard keyboard, Q, A, and Z are staggered, they are not directly above each other. In an ortholinear layout, they would be directly above each other. The idea behind this is that mechanically, fingers move vertically, so this is designed to be more ergonomic, and overall "better" than a staggered layout. Note that if you do decide to get an ortholinear layout, they take quite a bit of time to get used to.

• • • Ergonomic keyboards: Link

There is no specific layout used for ergonomic boards. Ergonomic keyboards range from flat split keyboards, to keyboards like the Dactyl-Manuform which is shaped to fit your hand in a much more ergonomic fashion than most other keyboards. Ergonomic keyboards are not just for individuals with Repetitive Stress Injuries (RSI), but also for people that either want to prevent them from developing, or simply want to type on a more comfortable keyboard. Note that many of these keyboards will require at least some adjustment from typing on a standard QWERTY board. Although they take getting used to, they can really help a lot.

Individuals with wrist or other joint pain should seek medical attention, as RSI's are something that are "treatable", but it is important that they are caught early. Here's a bit of an introduction to RSI: Link

• • • Optical Switch Keyboards: Link

Optical Switches utilize infrared sensors to actuate switches. Think of the safety sensor that stops a garage door from closing if you block it's signal. These switches act in a very similar manner, and are said to have far less input lag than the traditional mechanical switch. I have tried the current model Bloody keyboards, and I personally cannot tell much difference, but that's because we're talking milliseconds here, so it's not super easy to pick up on even though it's there. Whether the difference is worthwhile is only for you to decide though, and I will mention here that none of these boards are the best "bang for your buck", since you're paying mostly for the optical switch technology.

• • • Topre Keyboards Link

So I know you're probably here for a mechanical keyboard, but hear me out. Topre keyboards utilize high quality rubber domes with conical springs that actuated midway down a keypress. Typing on Topre is a completely different feeling than typing on a standard rubber dome keyboard (I should know, I'm currently typing this on one). Topre keyboards are not for everyone, which certainly makes them a bit of a gamble. I recommend watching reviews of Topre products before ordering them so you know what you're getting into. The nice thing about Topre keyboards is that they hold their value. I recommend looking at something like r/mechmarket to see if you can find one for a reasonable price.

Aspects Found Within Keyboard Lists

Switches:

Each individual is different. When it comes to switches, they are extremely based on personal preference. Where one switch may be your favorite, it may be someone else's least favorite switch of all time. Since there is no best switch, it's a great idea for you to test different switches to make an informed decision on whichever board you end up purchasing. This can be done by going to a keyboard meetup, by testing some of your friends boards, or as a bit of a last resort by using a switch tester. The reason I say using a switch tester is a last resort is because using a singular switch is quite different from typing on an actual keyboard with those switches. If you cannot do any of these, I would suggest you at least try to make a decision based on the boards that you have tried, determining whether you want a switch that is heavy or light, and also which switch category you would want: Tactile, Linear, or Clicky. I want to point out that Cherry MX switches are not necessarily the best choice. Cherry makes great switches, but do not shy away from keyboards that use clones. Do your research, but remember that switches are 100% personal preference. Pick something that you think will be a good fit for you, don't simply choose a switch because someone you know prefers them.

Keycaps:

Keycaps are something that you might not have thought about much, and maybe you hadn't at all until just now. Although switches are the most important part of a keyboard, keycaps are very important as well. If you end up getting cheaply made keycaps, it will affect your overall experience greatly. Because they are important, I want to go ahead and give some of the basics regarding them. These basics include keycap material (ABS vs PBT), and the printing process (Pad printed, Laser Etched, Dye Sublimation, and Double-Shot), as well as thickness.

I want to note that there will be a more extensive guide to keycaps within the "Aftermarket Mods" Page: Link

• ABS vs PBT:

Not all ABS keycaps are created equally. ABS plastic is generally considered to be worse than PBT plastic for keycaps, however, this is a very arguable statement. Some of the top keycaps on the market are made of thick double-shot ABS. The issue is that manufacturing cheap ABS plastic keycaps is much easier than PBT. This leads to many cheaper keyboards using cheap ABS plastic, but ABS should not be generalized as bad due to these boards. Generally, however, pre-built keyboards with ABS plastic have inferior keycaps to ones with PBT. This is not always the case, but it's something I think is worth mentioning. PBT as a material is more durable than ABS, and generally is considered to have a better texture as well. ABS will also begin to shine after extensive use much faster than PBT alternatives. Although some of the most expensive (sometimes considered to be the very best) keycap sets are made of ABS, when it comes to getting a pre-built board, ABS is generally going to be viewed as a con, not a pro. Another important factor when talking about keycaps is thickness, but there is not a great way I can determine the thickness of keycaps for all of the listed keyboards.

• Printing Process:

After a keycap is produced, a keycap legend (letter, number, etc) has to be printed on them. The cheapest option in this regard is pad printing. This is essentially like putting stickers on the keycaps, and they do not last long at all. Laser Etching is better than pad printing as it uses a laser to engrave into the keycap, but the etchings do end up fading away with time. Dye Sublimation is a process that involves dyeing a keycap. Since you cannot dye something to a lighter color, generally the legends of these caps are lighter colored than the rest of the cap. Double-Shot keycaps are considered to have the best legends, as the caps are actually made of two different plastics. The legend is a different plastic from the rest of the cap, so it can not simply wear away. Both Dye Sublimation and Double-Shot caps are great options.

• Profile:

Not all keycaps are the same shape. Also, most keycaps are stepped, but some are flat. Most keycap profiles used stepped keycaps. Stepped keycaps gradually get taller from the front of the board to the back. For example, the Z key is shorter than the Q key in a QWERTY layout. One advantage of flat keycaps is that they can be moved around, since the heights are all the same. So it becomes far easier to rearrange your keyboard to a different layout like DVORAK or COLEMAK etc. The keycap profile you are likely used to is OEM, and they are used on most keyboards today, including mechanical ones. Keycaps used on some of the older keyboards were the Cherry keycap profile, which is somewhat similar to OEM, however the Cherry profile is lower with less curvature. DSA is the most common flat profile, and they are often found on keyboards manufactured by Vortex although this is not the only profile Vortex keyboards use. There are many other keycap profiles, but when looking at pre-built keyboards you will likely be looking at OEM keycaps.

Case Material:

For the most part when it comes to case material there are two options: plastic or aluminum. When looking at more expensive keyboards and DIY keyboards you will begin to see both acrylic and brass used quite a lot as well. Anyway, aluminum will be much sturdier than plastic, and is often considered to be more aesthetically pleasing. Aluminum does affect the sound of the keyboard as well. The only downfall of aluminum is that it is far more expensive than plastic options. A keyboard with a plastic case is not necessarily a bad keyboard, so don't feel obligated to get a keyboard with an aluminum case. Note that there is a difference between having an aluminum plate and having an aluminum case. Generally switches mount on a plate, and most of them will be aluminum/stainless steel. An aluminum case completely envelops the board.

Backlighting/RGB:

This is talking about what the keyboard has for lighting options. Some keyboards are backlit a single color, some keyboards have Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) lights that you can manipulate to whatever color you desire, some keyboards have underglow LEDs, and some don't have any lighting at all. Just consider what you would want here. Backlighting can be nice if you are often working on the computer at night and struggle to read your keycaps. Be careful if you are looking for an RGB keyboard in the lower price ranges. Some of these keyboards do not use RGB LEDS, but rather use single color LEDs placed to form what appears to be an RGB keyboard. Sometimes in product descriptions this may be labeled as "Rainbow LEDs."

Detachable Cable:

This is just defining whether or not the cable is detachable. Having a detachable cable is generally a plus, because it makes the board more customize-able as well as more durable in a way, since if the cable breaks you can simply replace it. Plus besides that, having a removeable cable can make a board more portable. Not a necessity if you will take good care of your keyboard and do not need something portable, but custom ones sure do look nice.

Other Notes:

This is just the section that I use to make any comments that I have about the board. I try to include anything major here if it isn't listed in the other sections, plus sometimes I throw in a bit of my opinion on the board.