The Mentor is a versatile all-around intro to power kiting that’s simple and forgiving enough for beginners, so you can spend your time playing in the wind rather than fussing with gear. Internal fabric valves in the leading edge let air in for inflation but trap it inside if you crash on water, letting you fly over water with no worries about an unplanned landing. Monofilament profile supports in the ribs use the latest paraglider technology to provide a clean, efficient airfoil shape to the wing even in gusty winds.
Dual-line control is easy with a control bar, and the central third line lets you instantly relaunch from a nose-down position or kill the power in an emergency without losing the kite. If things get hairy, just let go of the control bar and the kite will collapse and settle to the ground. IMPORTANT: Read these instructions carefully before your first flight. Familiarize yourself with the safety system and be sure to fly in light winds at first until you’re fully acquainted with your new kite.
As a pilot, you - and only you - are responsible for your safety and the safety of those around you when you fly. Read these instructions thoroughly, and make sure you understand how to properly use your kite before launching. Below are some important notes to keep in mind in order to ensure a safe flying experience:
Make sure your flying space is clear before launching. Kites can move quickly and unpredictably, and your kite or its line could seriously injure anyone in their path if something goes wrong.
Never wrap your flying line around your hands. In a gust, the wind can cause your kite to pull hard enough to for the line to cut you seriously. Always hold the lines by their wrist straps.
The Mentor is equipped with a third control line and safety leash allowing you to instantly depower the kite in flight without losing the kite itself.
To use, attach the wrist strap to either wrist before flight. If you are overpowered, let go of the control bar with both hands. The kite will partially collapse and settle to the ground. To fly again simply pick up the bar and launch normally. This method can also be used for an easy way to land the kite directly downwind.
In certain emergency situations it may be necessary to jettison the kite altogether. To release yourself from the kite completely, grab the red plastic safety stopper at the middle of the bar and push it away from you, disconnecting the kite, bar and lines from your wrist leash.
UNFOLD your kite flat on the ground with the logo side up and the trailing edge facing the wind. If you don’t have a helper, put some sand or other suitable weight on the rear edge of the sail to keep it from blowing away. Your control bar and flying lines should already be attached to the red and blue bridle pigtails on either side of the kite.
CHECK that all bridle lines are clear and untangled.
UNWIND your flying lines from the control bar as you walk slowly backwards into the wind. Lay the lines on the ground parallel to each other and check for tangles as you go. When you reach the end of the lines, check that all three are parallel and untwisted.
ATTACH the safety strap to either wrist and hold the control bar in front of you with the red side on the right.
The flight area of the kite is called the Wind Window and it extends in a semi-circle from the left to the right side of the pilot. In the middle of the Wind Window, known as the Power Zone, the kite will fly fastest and generates the most pull.
As it reaches the edge of the window it will pull less and slow to a stop. The Zenith, directly above the pilot at the top of the wind window, is the best place to “park” the kite when you want to rest your arms and minimize pull.
In a normal launch, the kite is flown from the ground through the middle of the wind window up to the zenith. This will result in near-maximum pull. For this reason, it is important before launch to check that the lines are attached correctly and not tangled, and that your safety leash is securely attached to your wrist. Make your first flights in lighter winds (10 mph is perfect) until you are familiar with the power and handling of your kite.
Soft parafoil wings like the Mentor need wind flowing into them to take their shape and fly, just like a modern parachute or paraglider. The Mentor’s one-way intake valves allow air in and trap it inside so you can relaunch from water, but on first launch they require a few vigorous pumps of your arms to fill the cells and give the kite its flying shape.
With your arms outstretched in front of you, take a step backwards and sweep your arms down and back briskly to launch. As the kite starts to climb up, repeat the pumping motion until the wing is fully inflated, usually by the time you reach the top of the wind window. After that first launch, the internal pressure will hold the wing inflated so you don’t have to pump again when you re-launch.
Once airborne, pulling the right line slightly will turn your kite clockwise, pulling left will turn it counterclockwise. The kite will turn in the direction of your pull and keep turning until you even out your hands. Practice making figure eights in the sky by alternating upward turns until you get a feel for keeping it in the air. If you repeatedly turn in one direction you will build up a series of twists in the line. After around 10 twists, your lines will have noticeable friction as they slide past each other. When friction builds, make turns in the opposite direction until the twists are gone.
To land, fly the kite all the way to the edge of the wind window and slowly steer downwards. The kite will settle to the ground. Have a helper catch and secure it to prevent it from blowing away in stronger winds. With the kite pointed up, use the included ground stake to pin the center line to the ground if you need to leave it temporarily.
If you land the kite with its leading edge down, you can launch it in reverse by pulling on the center line (see Fig. 8). This pulls in the brake lines and causes the kite to lift off backwards. As it rises, pull one end of the bar to pivot it in place, then let the center line go and steer it normally into the air. If you crash on water, relaunch as quickly as you can so it doesn’t soak up water and get too heavy to launch.
Expect some “unplanned landings” while you learn to steer the kite. Most people take at least half an hour in steady winds to get the hang of it.
Hold your arms outstretched in front of you at chest height as you fly, not over your head. Holding your arms high over your head will only make it more difficult to control the kite.
Use small hand movements so you don’t over-control.
After an “unplanned landing,” check the kite closely for loose parts or tangles before you re-launch.
Light Winds: Light wind flying takes extra practice. The trick is to keep tension on the lines at all times by constantly moving around on the field. Gain altitude by walking backwards, and regain lost ground by moving forward while the kite glides down and away. Keep the kite moving and turn it before it comes to a stop.
Strong Winds: Launch closer to the edge of the wind window to avoid getting yanked forward when the kite blasts straight up into the power zone. Be sure your flying area is clear of tripping hazards in case you get pulled forward. Don’t fly in strong winds until you are comfortable steering the kite in moderate conditions.
Be sure the kite is secured by a helper or ground stake. Walk towards the kite as you wind the flying lines onto the control bar. When you reach the kite, use the wrist strap and elastics at the bar ends to secure the lines on the bar.
IMPORTANT: Leave the bar and lines attached to the kite to prevent tangling the bridles.
Open the Velcro drain in the middle of the trailing edge to let air out as you roll up the kite. Fold it in half by putting the wingtips together and lay the bar on the sail along a rib. Then roll the kite along the ribs and around the bar starting at the wingtips. Fold the trailing edge up until the bundle is short enough to fit in the bag.
Open the Velcro closure at the middle of the trailing edge of the kite and slide out the fabric tongue to hold it open. Shake sand towards the opening to drain. Small amounts of sand or water can be shaken out in flight.
IMPORTANT: The flying lines that come with your kite require proper care and handling to ensure their longevity. Used correctly your lines will last many years, but if mishandled you'll risk breaks, tangles, and even the loss of your kite. We've outlined the most common issues flyers encounter with their lines below, along with information to help you avoid making these mistakes yourself. Replacement flying lines are not covered under your kite's warranty, so be sure you read and understand the information in this section before you start flying.
Broken Flying Lines
The included lines are sufficiently strong to support your kite when flown within the advertised wind range (5-25 mph), but if those speeds are exceeded your lines may break. To prevent this, avoid launching your kite in winds near the very top of the recommended range. Wind speeds are variable, and flying at the maximum wind speed will leave you vulnerable to breakage if conditions suddenly change or an unexpected gust of wind comes along. Wind speeds are also generally stronger higher up in the air, so if you notice ground level speeds near the upper limit it's best to wait until conditions calm a bit before launching.
Breaks can also occur when attempting to tug your kite free of something it's become tangled in. Stay away from trees and other obstacles to avoid getting stuck, and if you experience an unplanned landing, check to be sure your lines aren't caught on anything before re-launching.
Lastly, keep a safe distance from other kites when flying. Lines can cut through each other when they get tangled in flight, so leave enough space for your neighboring kite flyers when choosing a spot to fly.
Tangles & Knots
Tangles and knots can be hard to fix, but luckily they're also very easy to prevent. Just remember this - your flying lines should always be either completely wound onto the included winder, or they should be making a straight line from the wrist straps to the kite. Avoid dragging your flying lines on the ground, unwinding them into a pile at your feet, or taking 'shortcuts' when winding them up at the end of your flight session, otherwise you're likely to end up with a tangled mess as your reward.
Double Overhand Loop
Used to finish the end of your flying line. Works well for both sleeved an un-sleeved lines.
Blood Knot
Can be used to join two pieces of line if your flying line breaks.
Lark's Head Knot
Can be used to connect your flying line to the line attachment point on your kite's bridle without the aid of an attachment clip.
Choose your flying spot carefully to avoid turbulent wind. Like whitewater in a river, wind that flows past obstacles like trees, buildings and hills becomes gusty and choppy and can make launching your kite and keeping it in the air difficult or even impossible.
The best place to fly is an open beach or field with wind blowing in from off the water. If you have such a place available, it's worth the extra travel time to get there because you'll have a much easier time launching and flying your kite. If you have to fly inland, look for wide open fields with no trees, buildings, or hills for at least a quarter mile upwind.
Is there enough wind?
Your kite will need around 4-7 mph of smooth wind to fly. With practice it gets easier to fly in light winds. Look for wind between 7 and 12 mph for your first flights so your kite will fly easily without pulling you off your feet.
Are there obstacles obstructing the wind?
Trees, buildings or hills in the area create turbulence, making the wind gusty and inconsistent. Choose a different location or wait for a different wind direction that is less obstructed.
Is the kite clear of sand and water?
Sand or water in the cells can weigh down your kite and make it sluggish. Remove sand or water by opening the “dirt out” drain vent in the trailing edge. Fly the kite for a few minutes to dry the skin if it has been crashed and re-launched from water.
Is your central safety line too short?
The line should hang with a little slack when flying so it doesn’t curl the trailing edge of the wing. Add slack in the central line by connecting it to a different knot on the bridle leader on the back edge of the kite
Is the kite damaged?
A tear in the sail or a broken bridle line can affect the way the kite flies. A very hard crash can cause an internal tear in a rib. Inspect from different angles in flight and check bridles.
Are you holding the control bar correctly?
Your right hand should be on the red side of the bar, with your left hand on the blue side. Hold the bar parallel to the ground. Pull one end towards you to steer while keeping it level at all times.
Are your bridles or flying lines tangled?
Sometimes a bridle or line can get snagged on the kite and affect the shape of the wing. Hold the kite by the pigtail attachments inflated over your head. Check for tangles and snags.
Are the left and right flying lines the same length?
Occasionally lines can stretch out unevenly, causing the kite to veer in one direction even when you hold the bar straight. Check that left and right lines are even. Adjust a knot on the control bar leader lines to compensate if needed.
Is the kite clear of sand and water?
Sand or water in the cells can weigh down your kite and make it sluggish. Remove sand or water by opening the “dirt out” drain vent in the trailing edge. Fly the kite for a few minutes to dry the skin if it has been crashed and re-launched from water.
Is your central safety line too short?
The line should hang with a little slack when flying so it doesn’t curl the trailing edge of the wing. Add slack in the central line by connecting it to a different knot on the bridle leader on the back edge of the kite
The materials in your kite are durable and designed for a long life with minimal maintenance. Here are few tips to keep it healthy:
Give your kite a pre-flight inspection before you launch to be sure everything is properly set up, the sail is intact, and the flying line isn't worn.
Beach sand is abrasive and will wear on your lines and sail, so do what you can to dust off the sand after a session at the beach. A soft brush works great if you have one, and a freshwater rinse is a good idea if your kite has been swimming in salt water.
Keep your kite out of hot car trunks and avoid using solvents to clean the sail as they can dissolve the adhesives in the seams. Warm water and a little dish detergent on a soft sponge works best for cleaning kites.
Keep your kite out of the sun when not in use to prevent the sail from fading or becoming brittle.
Sail tears are rare, but can happen if your kite lands in a sticker bush or needs to be yanked free from a tree. If this happens to you, don't despair! Our favorite repair tape is made specifically to make permanent, nearly invisible repairs to torn sails.
We’re confident you’re going to have a great time with every product we make. We guarantee that your new kite will arrive ready-to-fly and defect free, with all parts and accessories included. If you run into any issues upon inspecting your new kite, let us know and we’ll do what it takes to make things right.
For help with general inquiries, repairs, or warranty issues, please contact us at info@prismkites.com. We’ll respond within 24 hours, Monday through Friday. To ensure fast service please include any relevant information in your email so we can get started helping you right away. This could include the model of your kite, the name of a part you are looking for, or your mailing address if we need to send something your way. We look forward to hearing from you!