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You will begin with a 38" - 40” long, 3” wide, and ½” thick piece of Poplar.
See Mr. Kathrein to receive the piece of Poplar.
Measure this piece. It must be at least 37.5” long to get all 4 pieces needed.
You will be making two long sides 11-3/8” long and two end pieces 7” long.
(The Easier Option) You can cut 45-degree angles on the ends and later glue them together. See Mr. K for help doing this.
Mr. Kathrein will have to tilt the blade to 45°. See him for help cutting these.
They need to be perfect or the box won’t be square.
Watch the video below then See Mr. K for help cutting the 45° angles.
Please watch the video below for instructions on how to use the table saw to cut the slots needed to fit the bottom panel.
Please see Mr. Kathrein to remove the blade guard and for help setting up the table saw.
You will do this cut using the table saw or router table (if the router is set up).
If using the table saw, see Mr. K for help. The blade guard will need to be removed.
The Easy Construction has fewer steps than the Difficult Construction.
You are on Step 3, but Video #7.
I did not make all new videos for the easy project, so you will see some minor differences in the videos, but most of the steps are exactly the same whether you have box joints or 45° angles on the ends of the boards.
You won't attach hinges yet, you will be laying out where they go.
Measure 1" from each edge on both sides of 1 of the long side pieces.
(See video for further explanation).
Hinge Length = ¾”
Hinge Width = ⅝”
Cut the hinge and divider slots at the same time.
Watch the video below to see how to set up the table saw to make these cuts.
These are nonthrough cuts.
You will need to see Mr. Kathrein to have the blade guard removed.
The blade should be lowered until it is just a little above the throat plate.
About 1/16"
Watch the video below to see how to set up the table saw to make these cuts.
These are nonthrough cuts.
You MAY need to see Mr. Kathrein to have the blade guard removed unless it has already been removed.
The blade should be lowered (or raised) until it is just a little above the throat plate.
About 1/4"
Cut the hinge and divider slots at the same time.
Use a handheld vibrating sander to finish sand your project pieces.
Remove the tape from the piece you are working on and then put the tape back on when you finish each piece.
DO NOT sand over the tape like shown in the video.
I had a very difficult time removing the tape after sanding over it.
It will need to fit inside your project.
You will need to measure the inside of the box and add ⅜” to each side.
The bottom should be approximately 11” long & 6-½” wide.
If you had to modify your project (cut off and redo box joints, etc.), it will be a different size. Be sure to let Mr. Kathrein know you need a different size than the standard.
Check to see if everything is square.
This step is shown at the end of video #5.
If the bottom is too big or small See Me and I can cut it to the correct size for your project.
Fit your pieces together without any glue first.
I may need to trim the bottom piece for your sides to fit together correctly. If so, see me for help.
If everything fits together without glue, add glue to the 45 edges.
You should not glue the bottom in place. The bottom is called a floating piece, the structure if the box holds the bottom in place. It's considered floating because it could move up/down, forward/backward & left/right.
Take your time during this step, if the box isn't put together well in this step it won't turn out good.
See Mr. K. for some Quick Set Wood Glue. It is thicker and dries faster than the yellow wood glue, so it makes gluing things like boxes together much easier.
Watch the video below to see how to glue the pieces together.
You will need a strap clamp and wood glue for this step.
Start working on the top while the glued-up box is drying.
Measure both sides and ends of your project.
They should be 11-3/8" long and 7" wide.
You are checking to see if your project is square.
If one side or end is different, it is important to note this when you measure your trim.
See me for a 1" wide piece of poplar for the top trim.
This will need to be cut at 45° angles.
I will make the 45° cuts, but you will do all the measuring. If you mess up, you won't get a second piece, so measure twice before I cut anything.
Make sure you watch the video below and follow all the directions EXACTLY as shown!!!
Where you make the board, where you start your measurements, etc., are all very important.
Try assembling the trim along the top of your project.
You're just looking to see if the pieces are the correct lenghts.
Watch the video below to see how to label the pieces.
Apply a small piece of tape along the top of each trim piece.
Make a line along 1 edge of each piece of tape.
See the video below, the video can show better than I can describe in words.
Cut a 1/2" deep and 5/16" wide groove along the inside edge of each piece of top trim.
Watch the video below to see how to cut the slots in the top trim.
Ask Mr. Kathrein for a 1/4" thick Top Piece of plywood.
Do not remove the tape from the trim yet.
Before gluing, put the top together and see how everything fits.
If the top piece is too big or small, see Mr. Kathrein to have one cut to fit your project.
You the tape and the lines you drew on the tape to help with alignment.
They were cut in a specific way and need to be assembled in the same way.
Make sure all the marks on the tape are facing the same direction.
I had all the lines on the tape facing up when I assembled my top.
Add the top panel piece when doing this.
It becomes difficult to hold all 4 trim pieces and the top panel at once.
You may want to ask a classmate for assistance.
If the top panel is too big or small See Me and I can cut it to the correct size for your project.
See me for the quick-drying glue used in this step.
The quick-drying glue makes it easier to assemble.
Do not over glue or it will take longer to dry, defeating the whole purpose of quick-drying glue.
See Mr. Kathrein to get some wood putty made.
Fill in any gaps with wood filler.
Don't try to over-apply wood filler in the box joints.
Box Joints are supposed to be decorative, covering them with wood filler makes an attractive wood joint look unattractive.
After the wood putty dries you will need to sand off any excess wood putty.
You can use a hand-held vibrating sander to do this.
You do not want to use the Belt & Disc sander for this step.
The Belt & Disc sander is too powerful and will change the shape of your project.
Measure the width of the divider slots in your project. See video.
See me for 2 dividers. They may be a little long.
You will sand them later to fit snuggly in the divider grooves cut earlier.
Test the dividers out to see how long or short they currently are.
Start by using the Belt & Disc Sander to shorten the dividers.
Once they get close to fitting hand sand them with a piece of 80 grit sandpaper.
See video.
Apply a light coat of polyurethane.
Do not soak your project in polyurethane.
Overuse will cause drips.
Lightly sand the project after Polyurethane dries.
Wait (24 Hours).
Usually, 2-3 coats are required.
Only sand after 1st coat of Polyurethane.
Sanding after the 2nd + coats will apply unnecessary scratches to your finish.
Providing helpful feedback can be used to improve the directions and projects future students work on.