Shelf = 3 9/16” (top horizontal board)
Brackets = 2 ½” wide x 5” tall, (boards that support the weight of the shelf)
Apron = 7 ¼” (vertical board with pegs in it)
Click the links below to go to any step on the webpage.
There is a video to accompany each step.
Draw the template pattern for the brackets on 1 piece of poster board (2 ½” wide and 5” tall). The design must start in the top left corner and end in the lower right corner.
Sample Bracket Templates (Do not make your design too difficult)
A bracket design could actually be wrong. Brackets are used to add support to the shelf above them. If your bracket does not have a flat top that will connect to the shelf above it, it wiil not do what it is supposed to do.
These are samples of designs that will not add support to the shelf above them.
You can have these look like the braces in the drawing or be a different design.
When satisfied with your template’s design, carefully cut it out (scissors) and then trace the design on the two pieces of 2.5” x 5” wood with a pencil.
Cut the 2 brackets on a scroll saw, 1 at a time.
Because of the stock’s thickness and the tight cuts required, you should not attempt to tack boards together to cut both brackets at the same time.
File and sand these to get them as close to the same as possible.
They will be 10" apart in the end, so they do not have to be perfect.
Round the front edges of the shelf (2 edges on the same side). You will pick 1 edge that will become the front edge.
Watch the video below to see which edges to round.
Router table safety videos are located above.
End View
2. Round the bottom edge (any edge, ONLY 1) of the apron using the router table.
If the board did not round well, the board probably lifted up or off the back fence. To fix this, run the board through again and hold the board firmly down and against the fence.
If you rounded an edge that should not be rounded, see Mr. K. It may be okay or he may have to cut 1/4" off the board to remove the rounded edge.
Measure up 3” from the BOTTOM ROUNDED EDGE of the Apron and make a light line in pencil across the board using a T-Square. (The red line below)
2. Measure in 4” from each edge of the Apron and make a light vertical pencil line using a T-Square (the blue lines below).
3. This is where you will drill a ¼” hole for the pegs.
4. Drill these holes halfway through the board. If you end up drilling all the way through, it's not a big deal.
5. DO NOT GLUE THE PEGS IN YET!!! We will add these after everything else has been assembled. The pegs will get in the way right now.
If you failed to read the last step and drilled through the board, it will be okay. The pegs will glue into a hole all the way through, the same as they would if it was halfway through
The following measurements must be extremely accurate or your project will not fit together correctly.
Measure in 2” from each edge on the Shelf and make a mark on the edge that was NOT rounded with a T-Square. (See red lines below)
These do not need to be very long, ½” long will be fine.
Lightly mark a set of two lines 2” in from each edge on the Apron using a T-Square.
a. This line needs to be the full width of the board. (See red lines below)
Have Mr. Kathrein help you use the Plate Joiner to cut 2 biscuit joints that will be used to attach the boards.
a. You will add a little glue in the cuts.
b. Over Gluing will cause problems, make your project weaker and block stain.
c. Glue that gets onto the wood will seal the wood and prevent stain from absorbing in those spots.
Use a vibrating palm sander to sand the pieces of your project.
Erase or sand off any unnecessary pencil marks (ones already used) before beginning assembly.
It will be much easier to sand off pencil marks before the boards are assembled.
You will need to do the next 3 steps (a-c) all in the same class period.
DO NOT glue towards the end of class, your project will dry wrong and you will not be able to fix it later.
Do not make the mistake of thinking that more glue means a better bond; in fact, the opposite is true. Using an excessive amount of glue results in a) a weaker joint, and b) glue squeeze-out, which can permanently mar the look of your piece and inhibit the absorption of stain. As a general rule, apply a thin, even film of glue to the surfaces to be joined.
Place a biscuit in each cut and make sure your 2 pieces fit together BEFORE gluing.
Pour a tiny bit of glue into each biscuit cut, and tap the boards together.
You may need to use a hammer to remove any gaps.
Place a scrap piece of wood over the shelf and hit the scrap wood with the hammer to prevent damaging your project.
Nail the Shelf to the Apron using 4 finishing nails driven through the back of the Apron into the Shelf.
Use scrap pieces of wood to level your project and make nailing easier.
Try striking the nails with a straight downward force. When you swing a hammer you naturally swing with an arc. Hitting nails with an arc will cause them to bend.
If a nail ends up poking through your board because the nail didn't go in straight, here is how to fix it.
The outer edge of the brackets should be 1” from each end of the shelf & apron. Measure in 1” from each edge and Lightly mark this with a pencil. (See image below RED DASHED LINES).
You do not want these lines to be seen on the final product.
a. These lines DO NOT have to be the full length as shown in the picture.
b. Make a LIGHT pencil mark 1” from each edge, it only needs to be long enough to help you position the brackets, 1/8” is long enough.
c. Make this line towards the top of the project.
1. Lay out parts on the workbench and assemble them (without using glue or nails).
See if everything fits together.
If there is space between the top of the bracket and the shelf watch the 2 videos below to fix this before gluing the brackets to the shelf.
These steps are NOT required for all projects.
Follow these directions if there is space between the brackets and the shelf before gluing.
If there is space between the brackets and shelf follow the videos below before gluing.
See me if you have questions or need help.
Apply a light coat of glue to the edges of the bracket that will attach to the project.
Hold the brackets in place and allow the glue to set over night.
a. The outside edge of the brackets should be on the 1” line from each edge of the Apron.
b. The top of the Brackets should be on the bottom of the shelf.
You need to mark the center of the bracket on the back of the Apron and top of the Shelf.
This will assist in the next steps.
The outer edge of the brackets should be 1” from each end of the shelf & apron.
a. The bracket is ¾” thick.
b. This means (if you measured everything correctly, the center of the bracket SHOULD be 1 ⅜” from each edge.)
c. Measure and see if 1 ⅜” works for your project.
d. If so make a mark on the back of the Apron & top of the Shelf @ 1 ⅜” where your bracket will be. (put a piece of tape on the board to prevent writing on your project)
Shelf Top (The magenta lines are the new lines you will use to assist in nailing)
3. You will drive screws through the back of the Apron and top of the Shelf into the brackets to permanently attach them.
4. Watch the video to see how to do this step
a. Some bracket shapes may not allow the shelf to sit flat during this step.
b. Mr. Kathrein may have at assist in these situations.
5. Drill pilot holes where the screws will go. Use a ⅛” drill bit and a cordless drill to do this.
6. Use the countersink bit to add a place for the head of the screw to recess into.
7. Once the brackets are set in place and the project is assembled, you may glue the Shaker Pegs in place.
a. Use caution to avoid over-gluing.
Sand surfaces smooth, remove all pencil marks. Wipe down to remove dust.
(Put your name on the back of your project before beginning to apply the poly.)
Wear an apron to help protect your clothes.
Adding Stain, Paint, or Clear Finish probably will NOT be an option. Students Do Not clean up after themselves when doing these steps in class so I have stopped buying Paint Brushes, Paint, Stain, and Clear Finish.
These items get ruined when not cleaned up properly.
Staining will change the color of your wood.
You need to be sure to put the lid back onto the can and clean the brush with soap and water immediately after staining.
Stir Polyurethane before each use.
a. Using a brush, apply a thin coat to all stained surfaces.
b. Brush out all drips and even out excess Polyurethane.
c. Allow finish to dry for at least three hours.
When dry, lightly sand again using 220-grit (fine) sandpaper and wipe clean.
d. Apply second coat of Clear and let dry at least three hours.
e. Allow piece to cure for at least 24 hours before use.
If you have product left over, wipe the can rim so that product in the rim won’t dry out and prevent the lid from forming a tight seal.
Clean brushes with soap & water.
See Mr. K. to get 2 shaker pegs for your project.
You can spray-paint the pegs, but not the actual shelf.
After the spray paint dries you can put a little wood glue in each peg hole and tap the pegs in with a hammer.
On the back of the project, Measure 1" in from each edge along the top edge of the apron.
Fold a hanger over the edge of the apron to see where the hole will be on the project.
Drill a hole using a 1/16" drill bit
Use a hanger screw and screw drive to secure the hanger to the apron.
See the video below for help understanding this process. It is easier to show in a video than to write in words.
Show your project to Mr. K. to receive a grade.
Providing helpful feedback can be used to improve the directions and projects future students work on.