Embedded Files
I got the parts for my second WHAMMY from various stores. The pricing from diyAudioStore is pretty good, but I decided to part this one myself. Pricing to get everything directly was a little less, and I was able to get a few extra op amps and other stuff to test as a result.
From Markertek:
From Markertek:
NCID-BK Neutrik DSS-BLACK D-Series XLR Lettering and ID Plate Black $0.82
NYS367RD Rean NYS367-2 Gold Plated RCA/Phone Chassis Mount Socket - Red $1.55
NYS367BK Rean NYS367-0 Gold Plated RCA/Phone Chassis Mount Socket - Black $1.55
NC4FDL-1-B Neutrik NC4FD-L-B-1 D-Series 4-Pin Female XLR Connector - Black and Gold $6.65
NMJ6HF-S Neutrik NMJ6HF-S 1/4 Inch Stereo Jack Switched - Solder - Supplied with NRJ-WB and NRJ-NUT-B $1.02
Total: $11.59
From diyAudio Store
From diyAudio Store
1 x WHAMMY Headphone Amplifier - PCB Only for $29.00 each
Shipping: $9.30
Total: $38.30
From Digi-Key Electronics
From Digi-Key Electronics
L01-6363, TE2259-ND, XFRMR TOROIDAL 25VA THRU HOLE $22.72
NJM7815FA, NJM7815FA-ND, IC REG LINEAR 15V 1.5A TO220F $0.88
Shipping: 8.99
Tax: 1.67
Total: $34.26
From Mouser:
From Mouser:
Also, a fuse is needed, but I'm not exacly sure which one. I'm told 250V 1A slo-blo, but there are many like that! See here
I also got 10 x 4-40 3/8" screws, 6 x star washers, and 10 x nuts from my local hardware store for the headsinks. the IEC inlet, and the XLR jack, as well as an 8-32 screw, star washer and nut for the ground.
Total: $108.15
From AliExpress:
From AliExpress:
note: some drilling and cutting will be required for this case, and possibly some CNC work on the face plate (it's 8mm thick!)
Shipping: 19.75
19mm Metal Alumina black press button Led power mark lamp button latching control switch self-lock PushButton Switch 19DY.S.BK $2.30 - Blue, 110v
Total: $50.05
Grand Total: $204.05
Notes
Notes
More info as the parts arrive.
I got this illuminated power switch. AudioSan on DIYAudio suggested wiring this way to have the light on when powered off, and off when powered on. I didn't like that approach, but I'm documenting it here:
I liked that switch. But i would use wiring diagram 5 that is not shown. Switch open, ligth on. Switch closed, light off. That could be done by linking NC to LED positive, and NO to the device. That way you could have a red backlight on the powerswitch when the amp is off.
One thing to note. I don't think the wiring diagrams and the explanations are correct. Double check everything.
The "+" pole is for the light.
"NO" is connected to "C" when the switch is depressed (on)
"NC" is connected to "C" when the switch in out (off)
I want the light off when the switch is off, and the light on when the switch is on. This is diagram 1.
Well, as of 2019-03-27, here it is. I first used solid core silver wire sleeved with cotton, then heat shrink on both the input and the output, but there was a nasty hum. I changed the input wire to shield mic cable, and most, if not all the hum went away. I also grounded the pot, and that helped too. Next is to get the front plat milled, then drilled, and finish this puppy!
Page updated
Report abuse