By Sophia Yu
If you search up "phthalates in cosmetics," you will find a page from the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA). If you scroll down, you will read text which explains how the FDA has accounted for the potential health risks of phthalates, and how after extensive research, "the FDA determined that there wasn’t a sound, scientific basis to support taking regulatory action against cosmetics containing phthalates."5 Despite this apparent marker of safety, if the FDA has considered phthalates as something to look into, doesn’t that simultaneously imply they posed some sort of danger? What are phthalates exactly? Let’s explore.
Phthalates are found in everyday items and products, and are considered to be one of the most notorious endocrine disrupting chemicals (EDCs). EDCs can be defined as chemicals that interfere with the normal functioning of the endocrine system, which is your body's network of glands and organs that regulate bodily functions3. The endocrine system oversees processes like growth, metabolism, reproduction, and additionally functions to respond to the body’s changing biochemical environment, and it accomplishes this goal through the use of hormones – peptide or lipid based signaling molecules which transmit signals through the blood. In addition to hormones, the endocrine system encompasses many organs spread throughout the body including the hypothalamus, pituitary, and thyroid for example. Importantly, reproductive organs such as the testes and ovaries are also a part of the endocrine system, and are regulated in a careful balance using negative feedback loops3. EDCs are thus chemicals that serve to disrupt the body’s natural regulation. This can happen in many different ways, some including mimicking a hormone, disrupting the body's detection ability, or directly impairing one of the endocrine organs.
Phthalates are found in everyday things, including cosmetics
Overview of the endocrine system
Phthalates have been found to affect the female reproductive cycles within the endocrine system. According to some studies, phthalates can not only induce premature ovarian failure, but also dysfunctions with puberty and with pregnancy.1,2 Other scientists have found correlations between phthalates and cancer.4 One way that scientists have found phthalates interfere with the female reproductive system is through disrupting the Hypothalamic-Pituitary-Gonadal (HPG) axis which regulates the levels of GnRH, LH, and FSH hormones.2 Since these hormones in turn control the menstrual cycle and ovulation, phthalates pose a problematic threat to the female reproductive system. Furthermore, despite the FDA’s choice to leave phthalates in cosmetics mostly unregulated, there have been studies which have shown that phthalates in cosmetic products can elicit these harmful estrogenic effects. In Chebbi et.al for example, researchers ran a yeast estrogen screen bioassay utilizing phthalates found in various products and reached a conclusion which urges consumers and companies to restrict the usage of the chemical in products.1
As talked about in Disputed Science: Why We Don't Know All the Facts about EDCs and Humans, it’s possible that the FDA may be relying on the more inconsistent epidemiological studies instead of integrating other forms of research to reach their conclusion. Yet, even given their ruling, it is important for consumers to be aware of the risk that phthalates present.
Chebbi, M., Beltifa, A., Alibi, S., Di Bella, G., Loturco, V., Sire, O., Ben Mansour, H., & Le Tilly, V. (2022). Estrogenic hazards of short chain phthalates and bisphenols found in cosmetic products. International Journal of Environmental Health Research, 32(2), 252–263. https://doi.org/10.1080/09603123.2020.1749573
Hlisníková, H., Petrovičová, I., Kolena, B., Šidlovská, M., & Sirotkin, A. (2020). Effects and Mechanisms of Phthalates' Action on Reproductive Processes and Reproductive Health: A Literature Review. International journal of environmental research and public health, 17(18), 6811. https://doi.org/10.3390/ijerph17186811
Melmed, S., Polonsky, K. S., Larsen, P. R., & Kronenberg, H. M. (2011). Williams Textbook of Endocrinology E-Book. Elsevier Health Sciences. https://books.google.com/books?id=nbg1QOAObicC
Mughees, M., Chugh, H., & Wajid, S. (2022). Mechanism of phthalate esters in the progression and development of breast cancer. Drug and Chemical Toxicology, 45(3), 1021–1025. https://doi.org/10.1080/01480545.2020.1802480
Nutrition, C. for F. S. and A. (2022). Phthalates in Cosmetics. FDA. https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetic-ingredients/phthalates-cosmetics