Fertilization is one of the main services that we offer. To have a healthy, green lawn the fertilization program needs to be calculated by the amount of nutrient the lawn needs and broken down by each visit. This includes a lot of math, science and biology (but don't worry we have done all that already). The application process is very simple.
Nitrogen (N) - this is the main macro nutrient that the lawn needs to thrive and that we have to supplement. KBG requires between 3 to 6 pounds per year per 1000 ft.² throughout the year.
Phosphorus (K) - phosphorus helps the lawn to grow strong roots, as well as helps with nutrient uptake and energy production. In our area, most lawns have a surplus of this in the soil so we do not need to apply phosphorus. Very rarely.
Potassium (P) - potassium helps with her development and it helps fight off stress and disease.
These nutrients are also very important to a healthy lawn but they don't need to be applied as much as macro nutrients throughout the year.
Iron- Required for the formation of chlorophyl. Iron helps the blades green up.
Manganese- Assists iron in chlorophyll formation and serves as an activator for enzymes in the growth process.
Zinc - An important plant regulator, it's essential in root and plant growth.
Copper- Help photosynthesis, strengthens cell walls, helps with stress resistance.
Boron- Aids in new plant growth by helping your lawn absorb nutrients and grow new tissue. Boron also assists in pollination and fertilization
Sulfur- helps the grass to absorb nutrients, which helps have become healthier and greener
Calcium- help the soil structure and better water retention in the soil
Magnesium- help the grass to process nutrients and fortify it through the winter. Also help to produce chlorophyll
Liquid VS Granular Fertilizer
Liquid fertilizer, working the same way, but they are sprayed onto the lawn instead of granular pellets applied to the lawn. You use a large tank and a large hose and you walk across the lawn as if you are painting the grass. These are called foliar applications. You're applying them on to the grass leaves them self and they absorb into the plant.
Liquid fertilizer applications can move pretty quick, and they are nice because you can mix and we controls or soil amendments or insect products as well applying multiple things at once.
Granular fertilizers are a little granules that are applied by spreaders. These could be chest, spreaders, push spreaders, hand, spreaders, and even riding machine spreaders. The two most important things when applying granular are #1 -Spread fertilizer evenly across the entire lawn. If you do not, you could call stripes on the lawn. #2 - make sure you're putting the right amount of product. That's generally done and calibrated beforehand; you just have to make sure you maintain the correct speed and have the settings on the spreader correct. Too much fertilizer could cause the lawn to go out of balance, and two little fertilizer could cause malnutrition. If you were to spill fertilizer on the lawn and not clean it up it could burn the lawn.
Pros Of Granular
Generally quicker to apply granular.
Provides a deeper green color
Slow release can last much longer
No large equipment like the spray tank.
No loud noise
Do not need to pull the hose all day
Cons Of Granular
Have to load up bags in the morning and throughout the day
Can get on roads, sidewalks, driveways - might need to blow off
Higher potential to burn or spill
Sometimes you have to go over lawn twice. First apply the fertilizer and then grab spot sprayer for weeds
Pros Of Liquid
Can be mixed with other products like weed control, insecticide, fungicide and soil conditioners. (Very flexible)
Often can be physically easier then pushing
Don't need to worry about getting fertilizer in street or driveways
Huge time saver during peak weed season or insect season. You dont have to go over the lawn twice.
Cons Of Liquid
Larger equipment (more chance of an equipment issue)
Pull long hose all day around objects
Possible to get it on fences
The fertilizer we use
One App or PolyPlus - this is my favorite fertilizer. It's 100% slow release and so it's spoon feeds Lawn throughout the entire year. You just need to put it down in the early spring and for the most part you're done. In areas that have a longer season you may have to put a light fertilizer Down all around the late summer early fall. This also has a pre-emergent in it, so it helps minimize weeds and crabgrass.
28-4-10 50% w/Humates - Fertilizer with organic soil conditioner built in.
28-4-10 50% XRT - Fertilizer with no humates and 50% slow release
32-3-8 2% Fe 30% XRT - Fertilizer with Iron and micronutrients and 30% Slow Release
19-3-5 Prodiamine - fertilizer with weed pre-emergent
39-0-0 XRS - Blended in at 4 bags per 1 Acre of water. This is a slow release product - it will break down slowly over 4-6 weeks.
Plant Food 20-0-0 - Also a slow release fertilizer
Humic Acid. - Improves soil structure, Helps retain water, Helps the grass utilize the naturally provided nutrients in the soil, can enhance the application and make it more effective.
Compost Tea - Improves soil structure, Improves soil health, water retention, stimulates plant growth
Training Videos for Granular
Tips
Make sure to cut your bags open with a nice clean cut (use knife). If you open it to much or rip the bag it will lead to spills on the truck or ground.
Make sure hopper is closed when you fill up.
If you are not moving make sure the hopper is off! Otherwise you will spill and make a mess or burn a lawn
Do your trim pass first. The trim pass is when you go around the edges of the property. Afterwards you can make straight lines back and forth across the lawn.
Use a hand spreader for curb strips, and cutting in around the sidewalks, patios, trampoline and driveways. Think of it like painting a wall. You use the brush to hit the edges first and then a roller to hit the majority of the lawn.
Take about 3 wide steps (roughly 5-6 feet between passes). You want the pass you are currently on to hit the outside tire marks of the last pass (about 6-12 inches overlap).
When making your trim pass you do not need to turn off hopper when rounding corners (as long as you keep your speed off during the turn)
When making the middle passes, it is best to shut off the hopper as you make your turns.
Clean the proppeller of the spreader at least once a week. If it is a wet day, or the lawn is wet it will need it more often. Fertilizer and dust builds up on the propller and can alter the spreader path without you noticing which leads to striping.
Most Frequently Asked Questions by Customers About Fertilizer
Q. When is it safe to be on the lawn?
A. With granular it is ok to come right out or even be on the lawn while we apply. It is food and nutrition for the lawn.
Q. Will my lawn mower suck the granules up?
A. No. They are dense and heavy. Some are tiny black (dirt like) particles so they fall right to the soil. We have tested this by doing an application, and mowing the lawn with a bag directly after. We dumped all the clippings on the tarp and found only grass clippings and no fertilizer.
Q. Will my lawn mower suck the granules up?
A. No. They are dense and heavy. Some are tiny black (dirt like) particles so they fall right to the soil. We have tested this by doing an application, and mowing the lawn with a bag directly after. We dumped all the clippings on the tarp and found only grass clippings and no fertilizer.
Q. What is in the fertilizer?
A. Our fertilizers consist of macro and micro nutrients to feed the lawn. They are slow-release (which means they are better for the earth and they do not run-off and are less easily evaporated as much as quick release). Many of them are impregnated with organic soil conditioners like Humates.