BUYING A BEGINNER BAND INSTRUMENT

One of the most frequent questions posed to me from beginner band parents is, "I saw (fill in instrument here) for sale on the Internet/eBay/Craig's List, and it is much cheaper than the one being offered by (fill in name of local dealer here). It sounds like a great deal, so why shouldn't I buy it?"

As the old saying goes, "if it is too good to be true, it probably is." Beyond that there are many, many factors that need to be explored to understand the true issues of buying an instrument. Yes, this is a long article, but in the paragraphs that follow, we will do just that.

Before we go any further, it is important to understand that neither the band directors nor the school district have any financial interest in any music dealer ANYWHERE nor do we receive any compensation from any music dealer ANYWHERE. So with that out of the way, let's get to some specifics you need to know to make an informed instrument purchase.

THE THREE FACTORS

There are three main factors to consider when buying an instrument, whether it is for a beginner or a pro. Those factors are price, playability, and durability.

Price - This is the factor people focus on the most. It is also the easiest factor to use when comparing two or more instruments. New instruments that are significantly lower in cost than others are probably made of lower quality materials and workmanship. This will lead to the issues with the next two factors: durability and playability.

Durability - Simply put, durability is the factor that says how long an instrument ought to hold up under normal usage. In general, instruments for beginners SHOULD be very durable since they will be in the hands of inexperienced players. Brass instruments and saxophones should be built with a good thickness of metal and sufficient braces solidly soldered to those parts of the instrument that could be stressed. Clarinets are most often made of dense plastic that approaches the characteristics of a wood instrument or from lower cost, but high quality, wood. Flutes should be made of nickel or nickel/silver alloy. Keys for clarinets, saxes and flutes should be forged instead of stamped from sheet stock. Durability is somewhat harder to judge for the buyer who is new to musical instruments. All brands that are listed on the recommended instrument lists have proven durable and reliable.

Playability – This simply means how well the instrument plays and responds to what the player wants it to do. Playability can be a quality that is impossible for the parent or beginner to judge, so it is tempting to take the seller's word for it. Experienced players and professionals know that playability should be the #1 criteria for selecting an instrument. While a pro can take a bad instrument and make it sound good, a bad instrument in the hands of a beginner will most likely take the fun out of playing and the student will get frustrated and quit in short order. An instrument with good playability should have fairly even intonation (tuning) characteristics, be easy to blow, create a good tone and be capable of a great dynamic range without distorting the tone. All brands that are recommended on the recommended instrument lists fit these characteristics.

WHAT TO DO??

When shopping for an instrument, whether it is the first one for a 6th-grader, or simply the next in a long succession of instruments for the professional, the primary factor for choosing one over another should NOT be PRICE. Repeat - it should NOT be PRICE.

Playability should be the #1 criteria for choosing an instrument. A cheap instrument that does not play well will be nothing but misery for the player, no matter how much you've saved. A beginner needs an instrument that responds well so they sound good with what little technique they have in the opening months of instruction.

A beginner instrument also needs to be durable. Accidents will happen and a durable instrument made from quality materials will be more likely to withstand the occasional bump against a chair or a lapse in regular, proper maintenance. A durable instrument will also be playable for years. A quality beginner instrument may cost more, but it will also play better, be more reliable, be more durable, last longer, and probably be less likely to need repairs.

The goal for the buyer, then, is to get the best possible instrument in the price range they can afford. Now I can hear you saying, "Wait a minute!! Didn't you say that price should not be the primary factor?" Yes, I did say that, however all of us have some kind of price limit. The point is don't buy the cheapest instrument on the market and expect it to perform and last like a top-quality beginner model. That kind of instrument simply does not exist.

BEGINNER INSTRUMENTS

For the beginner the best strategy is to follow the recommended instrument brands and requirements from your band directors. The instrument brands listed on your student’s instrument supply list are well known for their playability and durability, and the requirements will ensure your student’s instrument will be able to last them throughout their middle school years.

If the instrument dealer is reputable and has been in business for a long time they have a vested interest in providing you with a good instrument at a competitive price (notice I didn't say "cheap"). The manufacturers they represent have a similar interest in keeping you happy, so they have invested considerable time, research, and development into making playable and durable instruments.

BUT “ABC” BRAND IS ONLY A FRACTION OF THE COST OF "XYZ" BRAND!!

New instruments offered for sale at unbelievably cheap prices often look great. Here are some of the problems: inferior metals, woods or plastics, second-rate or even shoddy assembly, and non-standard dimensions of critical components.

Materials - Much of the metal used in “bargain-basement” instruments is recycled so the manufacturer saves lots of money but has less control over the ratios of the different metals in the alloys. This usually makes the walls of brass instruments thinner and 1) more susceptible to temperature changes causing intonation problems and 2) and more prone to dents or serious damage to the instrument body. Some makers use pot metal for keys, water valves, and other components; pot metal cannot be repaired by anyone. Plastics used in instrument construction are polymers with a very dense molecular structure so that it mimics real wood. Inferior plastics used in instruments will be less dense and possibly more brittle, therefore prone to breaking more easily. Wood destined for quality woodwind instruments is carefully harvested from trees with straight and very dense grain and then aged for up to ten years before it is made into an instrument. Some manufacturers cut corners (and costs) by using woods that LOOK like the wood that is normally used but is 1) less stable in changing temperature and humidity and 2) is not aged or dried long enough. Such wood is less dense and prone to cracking. Since the wood is less stable repairs are difficult or even impossible.

Assembly – In the past, instrument makers relied on skilled craftsmen to assemble instruments. These craftsmen worked their way up in the company by learning their trade starting with the easiest and least critical assemblies and progressing to the most sensitive procedures such as valve lapping, ribbon soldering, play testing and final adjusting. The very nature of this method demanded the craftsman to learn and progress over a long period of time. Manufactures of quality beginner instruments machine many of their part utilizing robotics, but have supervision by master builders who oversee quality control. Manufacturers of lower quality instruments typically employ non-skilled laborers who do only one job or perhaps utilize robotics in place of skilled eyes and ears. There is no oversight by master builders or quality control.

Non-Standard Measurements - There are two basic systems for measuring dimensions in industrialized nations - English and metric. Although all manufacturers use one or the other, the actual dimensions of the screws, hinge rods, and the like are up to the maker. Long-established manufacturers use dimensions and measurements that have been developed over extensive periods of design and manufacturing. Less reputable manufacturers have been known to purchase, at huge discounts, leftover or discontinued materials, parts and supplies. Once those have been used for a production run, the manufacturer is again in the market for cheap materials, parts or supplies that nobody else wants. In other cases these same manufacturers experiment with non-standard dimensions and thread pitches and write that expense off as "research and development." Either way the result is very inconsistent sizes of anything even from one run of a model to another. Repair shops here in the U.S. do not have access to parts and supplies such as these, so repairs can be very difficult and EXPENSIVE, if they are possible at all.

The bottom line is don't be swayed by the low price. You are usually paying for problems rather than a quality instrument. Reputable, local music instrument dealers will not repair lower quality instruments as they cannot get parts and the repair may cost more than the instrument is worth.

WHERE SHOULD I BUY AN INSTRUMENT??

There are many local instrument dealers in the area. A list of these can be found on your student’s instrument supply list. Here are a few things to look for when looking for a place to purchase your beginner’s instrument from.

Repairs – “Do you have an in-house repair facility?” This is the most important and powerful question you can ask the dealer or retailer. It is inevitable: an instrument will need to be repaired or serviced at some time. You want to make sure that the music store can service what they sell and in a timely manner. Repairs can be completed quickly if the store has an in-store repair facility. Stores without an in-store repair facility will need to send them out, resulting in your student losing valuable playing time.

Insurance or Maintenance Plan – Some music stores will offer an insurance or maintenance plan for your instrument. This can reduce the cost of any repairs that may happen. It is a way to protect your investment.

Financing – Financing is very common in mot reputable music instrument stores. However, some places may offer better deals and incentives. The best option is to look for a store that offers a “rent-to-own” program. All payments go towards the purchase of the instrument, but the beauty is that you can return the instrument at any time and own nothing more. This also leads to. . .

Trade-in/Step-up – Some stores have a program with their “rent-to-own” where you can trade-in your student’s instrument (while making still under financing) for a step-up (more advanced) instrument. Most places will apply the payments from the first instrument towards the second.

Are there good instruments for sale in the classified ads? Sure there are. When responding to the ad, make sure to stipulate that any sale is contingent on being able to play the instrument. That gives you the opportunity to spend time with the instrument like you would at a dealer. Yard sales & flea markets? Decent instruments rarely will be found at either.

WHAT ABOUT THE INTERNET?

Buying an instrument on the Internet is fine, as long as you keep a few things in mind. Well-established online retailers should have specialists who can answer questions for you and a wide selection of instruments to choose from. A dealer or retailer selling on line should be able to give you information on warranty and return/restocking policies. If the seller is an individual he/she should be able to answer your detailed questions about the age of the instrument, who played it and for how long, the condition of the instrument (finish, any denting or corrosion, valve, key or slide action) and why they are selling it.

Perhaps the biggest downside of Internet shopping is the inability to do side-by-side comparisons like you can when you go to a dealer. With Internet purchases, also you lack the ability to go back to the seller for service or repairs. However, if you have access to a quality local repair shop, this is not an issue. Other issues regarding purchasing an instrument on the Internet are: the lack of financing options, insurance or maintenance plans, and trade-in/step-up programs. Internet prices can be lower than what local retail stores offer, but you may be giving up some perks.

ARE THERE SOME BRANDS I SHOULD BE LOOKING FOR? ARE THERE BRANDS I SHOULD AVOID?

For a list on what brands to look for, consult the supply list for your student’s instrument. All of these brands have been around for many, many years and are from well-established companies. Most of these brands will be readily available at local instrument dealers.

I can tell you this: avoid instruments for which you cannot find an actual manufacturer’s website. If you cannot find an actual company website for the instrument you are looking at, it is probably a cheap instrument that will not last long. They are usually made of inferior materials and will have questionable durability. Instruments like these will not be sold at reputable local instrument dealers.

CONCLUSION

So there you have it; a not-so-short discussion on what you need to know about buying an instrument. Remember the goal is to make informed and intelligent decisions about an instrument that you will be playing often and maybe for a very long time. For that reason, playability should be the factor that carries the most weight, not price. I'll end this commentary with a quote that used to hang on the wall at a music store where I took private lessons when I was a high school student. The sign read:

"The bitterness of poor quality remains long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten."