Product and Trading Card Standards

Product Standards

On Drip, streamers and sellers are authorized to offer a variety of products for purchase via direct sale or auction. ALL products to be sold on Drip MUST match the photo, description, and condition listed and presented on Drip. If the category you sell in is not listed, please reach out to support@dripshop.live for approval.

Authorized Items

The items currently authorized to sell are:

• Pokémon products

• Sports Cards

• Sports Memorabilia

• Metazoo

• Yu-Gi-Oh!

• Magic the Gathering

• Dragon Ball Cards

• Weiss Schwarz

• Marvel Cards

• Lego

• Funko Pops

• Funko Sodas

• FigPins

• Comic Books
  
  

Coming Soon

• Designer Toys

• Vintage Clothing

• Streetwear

• Sneakers

• Vinyl

Drip Condition Definitions

• Mint: Item and/or packaging are in excellent condition and both have NO visible defects or damage. For cards, there are no visible marks from shuffling, handling, clouding, printing defects or damages.

• Near Mint: Item and packaging is in great condition but may have up to 2 minor bits of damage. For cards, they show minimal to no wear from shuffling, playing or handling, surface flaws or slight fading or warping.

• Good: Item is not broken, but may show some signs of wear. For cards, they may show signs of wear from shuffling, play or handling.

• Damaged: Item and/or packaging may be heavily damaged.
  
  

Prohibited Actions and Items

• Not clearly stating/showing the condition of the item that is listed

• Show significant signs that the item may be counterfeit or altered in any way

• Unlicensed product

• Items that are priced higher than the market value

• Items with autographs must be certified by JSA, PSA, Beckett or B.A.M.

• Funko Pop

  • Items that don’t have the factory codes (the 3-letters code followed by numbers) on the box (unless this way it was manufactured)

  • Only contain loose items. Every listing must have a box

  • Only contain a box. Every listing must have a pop figure inside the box

• Funko Soda

  • Items that don’t have the factory codes (the 3-letters code followed by numbers) on the bottom of the can

  • Only contain loose items. Every listing must have a soda can

  • Sealed items must clearly show that they are factory sealed

  • Chase Sodas must prove that they are chase. If not, chase Soda must be listed as the regular version

  • If you want to list all the cans in a box, you must identify them

• FigPins

  • FigPins without the case, every pin must have their case

• Booster Boxes and Packs for Pokémon or Sports Cards

  • Booster packs that don't clearly show that they are factory sealed

  • Booster boxes that aren’t factory sealed or show signs of being opened

• Graded Cards

  • Cards that don’t clearly show the certificate number

Trading Card Standards

To ensure quality and consistency and limit any confusion around trading cards, we have detailed our Trading Card Standards across 4 areas. In The Basics, we detail what to look out for on your cards. We go over how to properly put a card or a break spot up on your stream in Listing for Sale. Following that, we will go over items to be mindful of during your live stream in During Your Live and finally wrap up with how to properly ship your orders in Preparing Your Items For Shipment.

The Basics

When you are going to sell a single card on your stream, you need to be aware of several things on a card whether it's vintage or pack fresh.

Here are some of the things to notice when looking at your card:

• Marks/Scratches: These can be any markings on the card whether it be an ink smudge or a scratch. Holographic cards can even have tiny scratches on the foil itself so look out for these. Here is an example of an ink smudge defect from the factory:

• Print lines: Holographic cards can have defects straight from the factory, print lines are seen when angling the card in the light and can go up and down or across the whole card. The example shown here has print lines creating a "grid" shape on the foil:

• Whitening: Even a pack fresh card can have whitening. These spots are generally seen on the back of the card and are small white dots. Here is an example of whitening on the top right corner and bottom right corner of a Pokemon card:

• Creases: Creases can be anywhere on the card and should be looked for so that if they are there, they can be listed in the description of the item. Here is an example of a crease on a MTG card:
  
  

Now that you have examined the card for any of the above defects/damage, here are the most common areas to look at on a card:

• Corners: Each card regardless of its type (Sports, TCG etc.) will have four corners. Depending on the manufacturer the corners might be sharp or rounded.

• Edges: The long sides on top and bottom and left and right of the card are known as its edges. Here is an example of a left edge and top edge on a Sports card.

• Surface: The entire front and back of a card is also commonly referred to as its surface.
  
  

After looking at the areas covered above for any damage or defects, let's classify the card of its condition:

• Near Mint/Mint: This condition is the best condition that your card could be in. It is absolutely flawless in every way and has no damage anywhere on the card. Be sure to look thoroughly to ensure that the card is perfect.

• Lightly Played: The next best condition after Near Mint/Mint, the card has small damage to it and has been shuffled in play. Card could have slight scratches and some whitening but no major damage.

• Moderately Played: Moderately played cards will have noticeable wear on the corners and edges of the card and can have some slight creases. The surface can also have some clouding on it if the card is holographic.

• Heavily Played: Cards that have heavy edge and corner wear with larger scratches on the surface should be categorized as heavily played.

• Damaged: Cards in this condition are the worst conditioned card, they will have extreme damage on corners and edges with heavy wear and will have deep scratches and or creases. Cards in the category will be priced on the lower end of the spectrum when listing.

Listing For Sale

Now that you have examined the card for damage and classed its condition, its time to create a listing that captures the item as a whole without question:

The perfect listing of your item will include:

• A short and snappy product name

• A clear picture you took of the exact card to be sold (if a graded card is being sold, a picture of the card in its slab with its grading header is necessary)

• An accurate product description including any glaring damage or defects to be listed out explicitly within it

If you are also looking to sell spots in a box break, please be sure to include whether the buyer is purchasing a random or specified team (if the break is Sports related) and what release the break is being opened from (IE a Pokemon Fusion Strike booster box break).

During Your Live

The time has come - you've added in all your products correctly and you are now live in your stream!

Whether you are selling singles or hosting a box break, here are some things to keep in mind while you are live on your stream. 

• Help us maintain the fairness and integrity of the platform by keeping openings of any kind within view of the camera. If a box is being opened and emptied for a break, be sure to show the inside of the empty box that the packs came out of before tossing away.

• Sellers should be ready and expect to show cards when asked by the buyer. Be sure to call out anything that you included within the items description in order to keep everything on the same level.

• If you are hosting a box break, make sure that every participant receives something. Everyone who participates in the break needs to be sent consolation cards, they cannot walk away empty handed. This also goes for pack battles, there can be no winner takes all scenario.

• All spots in a box break must be filled with purchasing buyers, there will be no fillers in the break with sell outs. If there are ten spots in your break, there needs to be ten purchasing buyers participating.

Preparing Your Items For Shipment

Using proper shipping/protection materials is key to building trust with your buyers and also ensures repeat business. Here are some of the materials that we recommend to use with shipping out your orders:

1. Protective Materials

   • Higher value cards that were sold either as singles or from pack/box openings should always be protected with a penny sleeve. These sleeves are very inexpensive and are usually sold in bulk quantities, be sure to purchase large amounts to keep up with your sales.

   • Outside of the card being sleeved up, you will next want to look at using a toploader. These harder plastic sleeves ensure that the card holds its rigid stature. These can also be purchased in large quantities and should be a staple for you as a seller. For more expensive higher end cards (whether vintage or modern), you might also want to consider the use of a magnetic case. These are more pricey to obtain and are not typically sold in large quantities but you should have a couple on hand for those monster pulls.

2. Shipping Materials

   • When the cards or your other items are secured properly and ready to go into packaging, here are some of the things we recommend. Bubble mailers are a cheap yet effective packaging solution for smaller orders of say just cards. Also look to procure team bags, these cellophane bags ensure that the cards do not slide around in the mailer unprotected. For larger items, look to use flat rate boxes from the USPS, these are free at the Post Office and protect well. For even larger shipments, be sure to use high grade cardboard that passes crushing tests and even incorporate air bags to ensure items don't bounce around the box.

3. Shipping Insurance

   • If you are shipping out an item(s) that have an extremely high value, we strongly recommend adding shipping insurance to the item. Note that this is an added fee and will make the shipping fee higher but if something goes wrong with the shipment it is a nice measure to protect both buyer and seller.