Early on in the trip, we visited the U.S Embassy in Dakar, Senegal where we were briefed on safety and the current political situation in Senegal. Ironically, though the meeting was meant to be about our safety, the focus of the conversation became about how Senegal (which in many ways is still developing, might recover from the recent Trump USAID cuts -- where he cut about 90% of foreign aid contracts).
A representative from Senegal said something fascinating to us in response to this question. Simply, "we must approach this with philosophy." This might've been a simple slip of language. In French, la philosophie, mostly has the connotations of "rigorous thinking," which is likely what he meant. But hearing him say the word this way made me understand the importance of the humanities and arts In an ever globalizing world focused on STEM education. When your back is against the wall, when there Is no Chat GPT, no Google, no "quick fix," you must approach things with "philosophy." It Is our capacity for new ideas which can help change the future, the creative and divergent thinking which is most often fostered in non-STEM fields. This is doubly ironic, as we learned during the visit that Senegal is actively trying to utilize more technology in schools. Meanwhile, in the states we are actively combating the over-use of technology.
Early on In our visit, we got the opportunity to learn about some key cultural values present In Senegalese culture. I was struck by similar they were to popular cultural norms In the Black American community. It made me wonder to what extent what we might call "Black" culture, has a lot of Its roots In West African Ideolgoies that have been able to stand the test of time. I have listed some key principles below, but note that due to language barriers I was not able to name the specific term for each one of them, but rather the meaning. The notable exception is Teranga, which was mentioned often, and the last one Kersa.
"Teranga" (Hospitality)
Perhaps due to our positionally as foreigners, but this was the most popular value expressed. It essentially means hospitality, and speaks to Senegalese peoples' efforts to treat and welcome all visitors as family. This was the case wherever we went. Even outside of our host families people were quick to offer us food, drinks, and a comfortable place to sit wherever we frequented. Below are some other additional principles, along with what I feel are some Black American cultural corollaries.
"Don't show that your poor." While there are clear financial connotations to this. I believe the true spirit of this is not to show weakness, and/or to keep family business private. Although our consultant did tell a humorous story about if a husband requires his wife to pay for something, she is obliged to give him the money in secret so that he can pay publicly. Growing up I was told, "don't be tellin' nobody our business."
"Greet people, Show respect, Manners, and Acknowledgment." We learned that greetings are very important in Senegal and can be very elaborate. In fact, there are various Muslim sects where the men have culturally specific handshakes that vary according to religious sect and age. It is customary to ask about family when greeting someone, and it is rude to break the greeting handshake first. And therefore greetings become an elaborate dance. I found this fascinating, as Black American men are known for having a culture of "dapping each other up," and this practice seemed pleasantly similar. Growing up I was told, "You betta speak when you walk in this house."
"Do your best to have peace." This principle suggests to prioritize peaceful interactions whenever possible, and being willing to negotiate in to minimize conflict. I think this ss reflected in the Biblical verse often cited, "do unto others as you would have them do unto you."
"Kersa" (Modesty) I believe our consultant put it best. "If you wouldn't do it around your parents, don't do it at all." In general do your best to practice being demure and mindful in social Interactions. Growing up I was told, "act like you got some sense."
Overall, Senegal is typical of a West African culture In that many of these practices seem to value community and collective well-being, even sometimes at the expense of the individual. Senegal is not utopian, as there were still many gender norms which I found perhaps restrictive, but overall much of Black American culture is truly collectvist rather than individual, and it was fun to see where many of these values might be rooted.
Standing at roughly 171 feet at the top of a tall staircase, is the African Renaissance Monument. Words and pictures cannot describe how grand It is. It depicts a man holding a woman and a child (depicting the importance of the African family, and harkening towards the future). The statue points towards the Atlantic Ocean in the direction of the Statue of Liberty. Overtime, the bronze statue will oxidize and turn green (as the Statue of Liberty did long ago) accordingly, the statue was meant to be an offering towards the African diaspora, while also speaking to the "freedom" once symbolized by America.
Unbeknownst to the naked eye, the inside of it is actually a museum that details the development of Senegal and the impact of the Slave Trade on West Africa. This is my first time in West Africa, and my first time seeing such an intentional effort to bridge the connections between the Africa diaspora. It is heartwarming and prescient. Afterwards, my Fulbright colleagues and I discuss our desire for every Black American child to visit West Africa, and the implications of such a possibility.
One of our consultants and tour guides, a Senegalese native, glibly alerts our attention to the fact that the statue "coincidentally" looks like Abdoulaye Wade, the third president of Senegal who commissioned the project.
Tik Tok video from the inside of the Museum done by a colleague. Note the clear nods to MLK and Obama.
Video of outside the museum. The tour guide is translating a beautiful plaque on the outside which roughly says, "To the young people of Africa, and the diaspora, if one day you find yourself at the foot of this monument, remember all of those who have sacrificed their lives for freedom and the African Renaissance."
Group photo at the foot of the monument.
The full view of the monument, which again this picture does no justice to. (The head of the man's statue has an observation deck where you can see all of Dakar).
We spent the next roughly twelve days in Kaolack, Senegal, which was about three hours southeast of the capital, and is much more rural than Dakar. I spent most of my time at the Valdiodio Ndiaye Junior High School. Where I taught English lessons, did classroom observations, and interviewed staff and students. Additionally, we went on cultural excursions and had home visits with our host families.
Kaolack as a city is bustling with tons of energy. Street markets, young boys on mopeds providing transportation, general pedestrians, and even livestock riddle the streets. It's vibrant and populated, but there still seems to be a sense of community and coherence. Nevertheless, outside of Dakar one can feel the urgency of the need for development. Many buildings were unfinished, and the commercial buildings were separated by wide and long stretches of land, often sprinkled with litter.
Traveling outside of the city can be precarious. Not because of any Inherently dangerous people, but rather because of corruption. Our drivers were stopped often and given tickets for usually dubious reasons.
"It's because they see us driving foreigners," a driver told us. "They assume we have money." He goes on to tell us that one has the option to pay the ticket (an apparently cumbersome process) or offer a bribe to the police officer. Most pay the bribe to avoid the hassle. Principled individuals go through the bureaucratic hurdles.
The vibrancy was matched only by the heat. It was extremely hot. So hot that students actually spend the afternoons at home before returning back to school for a few hours in the early evening.
Schools and schooling in Kaolack Is complex. The chief concern is that education in Senegal is actively trying to decolonize from its French roots. This means transitioning from the official language of French to learning more English, as well as centering native languages such as Woloft. (Currently native languages are not taught in schools). Senegal is trying to modernize, focusing more on STEM education, while also trying to improve the training of teachers, the majority of whom don't receive formal training after getting certified to teach. There are variety of schools in Kaolack, from public schools, to private Islamic schools, and schools that still center traditional French education. There are similarities to educational problems In the United States, just at a matter of scale.There are gender disparities --a decades long push to improve the education of girls has been successful, but due to widespread poverty, many boys are opting to drop out of school in favor of working. Class sizes are also too big (50 - 80 students one average). Nevertheless, the day to day can be surprisingly simple. The principal spoke mainly of making sure that teachers are working their required hours, assessing students appropriately, and maintaining a peaceful environment.
Here I'm teaching a call and response chant to a group of beginner English language learners.
Courtyard of the school.
A neighboring school football game. Like many places outside of the U.S, "soccer" is the most popular sport.
The view from inside of a classroom at the junior high. It Is clear how overwhelming the class sizes can be. The students are attentive however. And the teachers are strong In their content knowledge.
English Clubs in Senegal are extracurriculuar spaces where students can practice their English skills. I was lucky enough to interview a group of students at the Ibrahima Diouf High school about their experiences in Kaolack. We discuss whether or not girls face more pressure in school, culturally responsive curriculum, their feelings about Senegal, and their futures. I was really proud of these students. Some were really proficient in English, while others were still beginners, but all were willing to push themselves to have academic conversations. Enjoy! (Please excuse the auto-focus issues, I didn't expect to Interview a full classroom!)