PROTECTION
Always store your instrument and bow in a case or bag, making sure to loosen the bow hair before putting in into the proper protective compartment.
TEMPERATURE
Never expose the instrument to direct sunlight or sudden changes in temperature or humidity. Store it in a place with moderate humidity, away from radiators or hot air vents. Never leave an instrument in a car in extremely hot or cold weather.
HUMIDITY
Stringed instrument need at least 50% relative humidity to maintain their adjustments and integrity. Use a Dampit to insure that sudden changes in humidity don’t crack your instrument or cause it to go out of adjustment. The Dampit should be remoistened daily whenever the heat is on and especially during the winter months. Case-mounted humidifiers are not a substitute for a Dampit and using steam vaporizers in the music room is recommended for added protection during the dry season.
CLEANING
Remove rosin dust and use a microfiber cleaning cloth to wipe down the strings and body of your instrument after every playing session. Periodic polishing will maintain the instrument’s luster, but avoid using alcohol because it can damage the varnish.
THE BOW
A fresh hank of bow hair can last for just 120 playing hours, meaning your bow should be rehaired once every six months if you play half an hour a day, five days a week. Loosen the bow when it’s not in use and keep polish and fingers away from the bow hair.
THE BRIDGE
The feet of the bridge should always be aligned with the inner notches cut in the F holes. It must be kept in a perpendicular position. Tuning the strings tends to pull the bridge forward, so check its position frequently. If neglected, the bridge may warp, or even break. If it requires adjusting as your teacher for help or take your instrument to a repair shop.
STRINGS
Even the finest instrument can’t sound its best with old or poor quality strings. Strings will usually go bad (6 months) long before they break, so look for changes in the appearance of the string surface. By regularly examining the windings for changes in texture and color, you soon learn the signs that your old strings are becoming lifeless, false, and dull. Check your maintenance and warranty brochure to be sure you replace your strings with the same type that is currently on your instrument so that you don’t jeopardize the soundpost adjustment. Put new strings on one at a time. Guard against the bridge being pulled forward while tuning new strings up to pitch and avoid using bottom priced/low quality steel strings if you have a better quality instrument.
STRING TUNERS
If your tuner has a lever under the tailpiece, don’t let the lever touch the top of the instrument. This can seriously bruise the wood. To reduce the depression of the lever, turn the tuner screw counter clockwise. Then raise the pitch with the peg. If you wish to use more than one fine tuner, consider having a professional install a Whitner tailpiece with the built-in tuners for ease of tuning and changing strings. If the chinrest is loose or touching the tailpiece, it may produce a buzzing sound. If this happens, ask your teacher for help or take your instrument to a repair shop.
PEGS
Even normal tuning will cause both the peg and the peg hole to wear smooth, which causes slipping. Ask your teacher for suggestions on how to solve this problem. Never use glue on your pegs!!!
SEE A REPAIR PERSON
For repairs and maintenance related to the fingerboard, soundpost, or any open edges or cracks in the instrument, consult a professional stringed instrument repair person.