At the end of the lesson, the students must be able to:
Define what is seam and differentiate open seams to closed seams,
Recall the uses of seams in garments,
Demonstrate each type of seams.
A seam is a method of binding two or more pieces of fabric together, usually using thread to form stitches. However, glue and other forms of adhesive can also be used. Seams can be stitched by hand or sewn by machine.
Seams can either be open or closed. An open seam is one where the seam allowance, the piece of fabric between the edge of the material and the stitches, is visible. A closed seam incorporates the seam allowance within the seam finish, making it invisible.
Seams are an essential element to every garment and fabric accessory, as they join the material together to create the item.
Seams are used for hems and to finish necklines and edges.
Seams add shape through elements like darts, which are used to shape hips, waists, and bustlines.
Seams are used to gather fabric and create pleats.
Different types of seams can be used to create a different look for a garment and to finish and hide the fabric edges for aesthetic and practical purposes.
The type of seam you choose depends on the type of fabric you're using and the final look of an item that you want to achieve.
Some seams, such as French seams, are better for lighter weight fabrics.
Bulkier enclosed seams, like the flat felled seam, are better for tougher fabrics like denim.
Be sure to pick the right stitch length as well—the longer a stitch, the more likely the material is to pucker, which stitches that are too short can create undesired plaits.
There are several different types of seams, each with its own characteristics.
A plain seam is the simplest type of seam and can be used on almost any item. A plain seam is defined as any seam that attaches two pieces of fabric together with the wrong sides facing. The wrong side is the side of the fabric that doesn’t face outward when the garment or item is completed. The stitch length or type of stitch doesn’t matter, as long as it is one stitch line and it attaches two pieces of fabric.
A French seam should only be used on delicate, lightweight fabric, like chiffon or organza, as the seam uses a lot of material and can get bulky with heavier fabrics. Since the edges of the fabric do not show with this technique, a French seam is also great for garments where you want to hide the seams, like an unlined jacket.
A bound seam looks like a French seam on the right side of the fabric. There are no visible stitches on the right side of the fabric, and on the opposite side, the fabric edges are neatly enclosed.
A flat-felled seam is an extremely strong closed seam that is often used for items like jeans. It covers the fabric’s raw edges well and keeps the seam flat. Like the French seam, it is a double-stitched, closed seam.
A welt seam is also frequently used for jeans, as it is very strong, but it is less bulky than the flat-felled seam because it is not enclosed and the raw edge of the fabric is visible.
A lapped seam is typically used with fabrics that don’t fray, such as leather and fleece. For a lapped seam, the right side of the fabric faces up and the pieces overlap, instead of right or wrong sides together.
7 Different Types of Seams and How to Use Them in Garments by the MasterClass staff
plain seam, double-stitched seam, French seam, bound seam, flat-felled seam, welt seam, & lapped seam