Answers to Common Questions

NEW - as a quality control measure please be aware that from time to time Horticulture Extension educators may review your submitted answers, and may contact you with additional information.

The following are answers to some common questions written and shared by U of M Extension Master Gardeners for use in answering Ask Extension questions.

Answering Ask Extension Questions

Question poached - What to do when someone else has answered a question that was assigned to you? In other words, what to do when your question has been “stolen” by a “question poacher”?  Write a professional and courteous message to the person reminding him/her not to take questions from fellow experts. Something like… 

Thank you for participating in Ask Extension. We noticed that you took a question from a member of the Minnesota Yard & Garden group X hours after posting. Please do not take questions from other AaE members until the question has remained unanswered for a minimum of 48 hours. It's important to give people the opportunity to answer questions assigned to them.  

Thanks,

Your Name Here

Minnesota Yard & Garden group member

Standard answer for submissions with multiple questions

Thank you for your submission. Because questions are handled by staff and volunteers with different areas of expertise, please ask one question per submission as this will expedite the responses. Please re-send your questions on separate submissions. We look forward to helping you with your gardening questions.

Standard answer for submissions sending links to google files, video clips, Facebook page, etc. rather than attached photos

Thank you for your question. Please only attach photos - do not provide links to google files, video clips, social media pages, etc..  These alternate ways of sharing images increase the complexity and time required to provide an answer.  

Please re-send your question with attached images. We look forward to helping you with your gardening questions.

Message to non-Ask Extension Master Gardeners soliciting help from Ask Extension

Please note that Ask Ex is reserved for fielding gardening questions from the general public. If we accepted Master Gardeners’ questions, the question volume would be unmanageable. So we ask that Master Gardeners with gardening questions to please use the MASTGAR listserv or contact an appropriate Extension Educator. If you have an administrative or program question, please contact your local program leader or email the Extension Master Gardener State Office at mgweb@umn.edu. Thank you for your consideration and for all you do as a Master Gardener!

Questions from commercial clients

Master Gardeners answer questions from homeowners and school and community gardens that are non-profit and serve the general public. Faculty, specialists and Extension educators answer commercial questions (some also answer homeowner questions). When a Master Gardener receives a question from a commercial client, the volunteer should refer the client to Ask Extension staff leaders Julie Weisenhorn (weise019@umn.edu) or Jackie Froemming (froem022@umn.edu). Staff will then forward the question to the appropriate faculty or specialist. Faculty and specialists are responsible for assisting commercial clients and connecting them to the latest research. Commercial clients' needs are also very different from homeowners' needs and volunteers are not trained to answer questions about commercial agriculture or horticulture, its products or technology.

Questions related to health issues (insect ID, Plant ID, etc.)

"Ask Extension is focused on horticulture questions related to garden settings. Please reach out to your healthcare provider." 

Landscape Questions

A response when someone is blaming their uphill neighbor for water draining into their yard and compromising their landscape, and asking about what is legal".

Here at the University of Minnesota, we cannot give legal advice nor comment on what is legal / not legal in specific landscaping issues, namely because there can be many factors.

We have not had an excessively rainy spring yet, so there may be other reasons for the water issue. Contact a professional landscape firm (you can contact Minnesota Nursery and Landscape Association at www.mnla.biz to find landscape companies in your area) to help you confirm the source of the drainage. Have them review your landscape - there can be multiple reasons why a backyard landscape is being compromised. For example, you may have water seepage from a water main leak on your property. You may have a high water table. Do you have water in your basement?  Your yard may also require some landscaping repairs such as re-grading, replanting, etc.

We also strongly advise discussing the problem with your neighbors who you think have the drainage issue. If you haven't done so, don't assume they know what is going on. They may not be aware of the problem. Are they directing water on purpose downhill toward your property (ex: drain spots or a sump pump outlet pointed downhill toward your site). Or does their property just drain naturally toward your property? In any case, it is always advised you to work together on a solution before bringing in the city/litigation. 

Landscaping consult - Request for Master Gardener as a private garden consultant / landscaping

Extension Master Gardeners are volunteers of the University of Minnesota. They do not provide onsite consultation at private homes. As volunteers, they donate their time to educate communities and citizens in the best home gardening practices for the greater good. Here is an Extension publication to help you find professional assistance with home landscaping: How to find help with your landscaping project https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/landscape-design#how-to-find-help-with-your-landscaping-project-1561813

Here is an Extension publication to help you find a certified arborist: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/how-hire-tree-care-professional

Milorganite - Concerns over prior use of Milorganite on a lawn being converted to vegetable garden

Please note that the use of products legally labeled safe for certain uses by the USEPA ultimately is a personal choice. The information given herein is supplied with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the University of Minnesota Extension.

A soil test is recommended for your new garden area. In every case, a soil test will provide you with a wealth of information about your soil including fertilizer recommendations, especially when converting from lawn to vegetable garden or vice versa. U of M Soil Testing Laboratory

In the following publication from Cornell University (NY) Home Garden Use of Milorganite the researcher notes that "Under USEPA rules, Milorganite can be used without restriction. Current rules in New York State (part 360.5) are more restrictive. Based on NYS rules, a waiting period of 38 months should be observed between application of any sludge product, including Milorganite, and planting of food crops."                                                                                  

To summarize, while the USEPA has labeled Milorganite safe for food crops, Cornell University and the State of New York has a 38 month waiting period between the time Milorganite or other sludge products have been applied and the planting of food crops. Considering your concerns, you may simply choose to wait another year (+38 months) before converting your area to a vegetable garden.

Note, too, that Milorganite contains phosphorus (P), and under the Minnesota Phosphorus Law, fertilizers with P are only allowed if a soil test indicates a need for P or when in establishing a new lawn.

I have mushrooms in my lawn. 

 The mushroom you see is the fruiting body of a network of mycelium growing underground. Mushrooms in a lawn are usually indicative of overwatering a lawn. Mushrooms can be managed  by turning off your irrigation system and by simply kicking over / removing the mushrooms. Here are some resources for mushrooms in lawns:

Common fungi in yards and gardens
Mushrooms in lawns

Can I eat this mushroom?

WARNING! We do not identify mushrooms or advise on whether mushrooms are edible. Do not eat mushrooms that a mycology expert has not idenfied. Many wild mushrooms are poisonous and can be fatal. Common sense tells us never to eat a mushroom you cannot identify 100%. Most mushrooms that grow in our yards are NOT edible. To prevent children or pets from eating them, dig them out with a trowel or spade. Wear gloves and dispose the mushrooms in the trash. The mushroom above ground is the fruiting body of the fungi. Note that the mycelial "roots" of the mushroom are still in the ground and are difficult to remove. Mushrooms may reemerge if conditions are right such as cool, damp weather. If you believe you have ingested a poisonous mushroom, immediately contact Poison Control (800-222-1222), and save an uncooked sample of the mushrooms you consumed for the purpose of identification. This can be critical for determining the proper treatment.

Minnesota Mycological Society https://minnesotamycologicalsociety.org/

Poison Control Hotline: 1-800-222-1222

Poison control centers provide free, confidential, and expert medical advice 24/7. After getting medical help, contact a NAMA mushroom poisoning identifier to get suspect mushrooms identified.

Animal Poison Control Hotline: 1-888-426-4435

Standard answer to flooded vegetable gardens

Master Gardeners are not in a position to provide official guidance on flooded gardens because of the legal implications associated with possibly adulterated produce and the nuances associated with the regulatory language. Our role is to raise awareness of the issue.  Please seek official guidance from the appropriate regulatory agencies such as MN Dept of Ag, MN Dept of Health, FDA and/or USDA.

Treated lumber for garden structures

Several research-based publications from universities confirm that pressure-treated wood available to the retail market (homeowners) today is deemed safe by the EPA for use in building garden structures including compost bins. One publication in particular by Extension educator Candice Miller of University of Illinois Extension provides some valuable information. She references a good Pen State publication that I also read. According to Candice and other sources: "In February 2002, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) announced a voluntary decision by the wood preserving industry to phase out the use of wood preservatives that contain arsenic for any wood products destined for consumer use. That means that CCA (Chromium, Copper, and Arsenic) pressure-treated wood is no longer available to the public and no longer an issue for gardeners unless using older wood purchased before 2003." This publication offers alternatives as well for people still uncomfortable with treated wood.

Other sources: http://anrcatalog.ucanr.edu/pdf/8128.pdf

Pests

For questions submitted to Ask Extension about possible invasive plants and insects - here is a standard response….

Thank you for your question and concern about a possible invasive species!

Invasive species are plants and animals, including insects, that are not native to Minnesota and cause economic or environmental harm or harm to human health. It’s a big job to manage known existing species while preventing the spread of new ones, so we appreciate hearing from you. Please share any additional information about the plant, including photos, as well as your contact information with us, so we may work directly with you on this further.  

High-quality digital images of invasive species can help experts identify them quickly. For plants, it's best to take several pictures all with an object, like a ruler, for scale. Pictures of the whole leaf, the leaf where it attaches to the stem or twig, the flower (if it's flowering), and the whole plant (again with something, a person, hand, etc) for scale are wonderful. For insects picture quality matters. Lighting and photo crispness is important for insect identification again with scale. Further pictures of the insect from several angles (top, bottom, and side views) are helpful. If you capture the insect and want to save it place it in a crush-proof container with the date and location it was collected and freeze it. If the experts need a closer look or want the sample for official verification you can grab it from the freezer.

Your help is critical to helping us further investigate this possible invasive species by reporting it to the Minnesota Department of Agriculture Arrest.the.Pest program emailing Arrest.the.Pest@state.mn.us or calling (888) 545-6684.

We appreciate your help as we fight to keep invasive species under control in Minnesota!

Garlic Mustard

Garlic mustard is listed as a restricted noxious weed in Minnesota Propagation and sale of this plant are prohibited in Minnesota. According to the Minnesota Department of Agriculture, transportation is only allowed when in compliance with Minnesota Statute 18.82. Although Restricted Noxious Weeds are not required by law to be controlled or eradicated, landowners are strongly encouraged to manage these invasive plants on their properties in order to reduce spread into new areas. Minnesota Noxious Weed Law.  Although prolific in the state, if you discover in an area where you have never seen it before or suspect it is new to the area, please report your findings on the EDDMaps application or to the Minnesota Department of Agriculture. When in doubt, it is best to report it.

How can I control Japanese beetles in my yard?

JAPANESE BEETLES - FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Extension webpage: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/japanese-beetles

Are Japanese beetles new to Minnesota?

Japanese beetles (JB) are serious pests of ornamental plants and turf in Minnesota.  They were first found in the United States in 1916 and were first found in Minnesota in 1968.  The summer of 2017 saw high numbers of JB in the Twin Cities area and southeast Minnesota.  The following are some common questions asked about them.  

What is the life cycle of Japanese beetles?

Adults emerge from the soil starting in late June or early July, then feed, mate, and lay eggs. Their activity is most intense over a 6-8 week period, and then they gradually die off. Individual beetles live for about 60 days. During that time, females can lay a total of 60 eggs.  JB numbers fluctuate from year to year.  An important factor influencing their abundance is the soil moisture when they lay eggs (July and August).  Eggs and young grubs are very susceptible to dry soils.  The regular rains that have occurred the last several summers have been a big factor in the higher numbers of JB.

Which plants are most likely to be attacked by Japanese beetles?

Adults feed on leaves or flowers, and are a major pest of over 350 plants species, including trees, shrubs, fruits, vegetables, and even field and forage crops and weeds. Highly preferred plants include linden, birch, apple/crabapple, plum and other Prunus spp., rose, and grape.

How do Japanese beetles damage plants?

Adults feed on the leaves, consuming the tissue between the veins, and leaving the foliage lace-like. Fortunately, plants can generally tolerate this feeding damage, although it can affect the plant’s appearance.  The grubs are also pests, feeding on grass roots. 

How can I manage infestations without insecticides?

Physical removal can be an effective method, although it is not practical in large gardens or for trees.  When you remove JB by hand, dispose of them in a bucket of soapy water to kill them. You can also cover some plants with a lightweight fabric, like cheesecloth to exclude JB.  However, research has demonstrated that companion planting is not effective.

Are there any low impact insecticides that are effective?

There are a couple of effective low impact insecticides; Pyola and Neem oil.  They can help protect plants from JB, especially if only small numbers are present.  However, insecticidal soap, extracts of garlic, hot pepper, or orange peels are not effective.

Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)

A biopesticide, Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is a bacterium that is found naturally in soils throughout the world. There are many types and each affects different insect groups including beetles. Bt products can be effective against Japanese beetles in certain circumstances. These insecticides are less harmful to bees than insecticides in the pyrethroid and carbaryl families because Bt predominantly affects insects with chewing mouthparts and alkaline digestive systems, so mostly caterpillars and beetles. However, there are some things to consider when using these products, or any pesticides at all:

• • • Efficacy period: The persistence of some of the products mentioned is 2-3 days. One of the main reasons we tend to be cautious about recommending pesticides for Japanese beetles is that there are so many Japanese beetles in the landscape that even if you're able to get rid of some of them, it's likely that more will re-enter the system soon after. If these Bt products are only persistent in the environment for 2-3 days, you're likely to experience more pest pressure in the near future. The same argument is often made for soil drench treatments to control larvae; even if you're able to eliminate some of the larvae in your soil, Japanese beetles can fly fairly far and you'll likely have Japanese beetles next year regardless.

    • Application sites: Many of the plants that Japanese beetles are most attracted to are trees, and it's not very practical (or safe if you have to climb a ladder) to apply foliar-applied products on taller trees. Acelerpryn (also mentioned in the Colorado State publication) is commonly used for taller trees since it has a relatively low toxicity to pollinators and can be applied as a soil-drench to the base of the tree, and is then taken up by the tree and remobilized into the canopy. For shrubs, flowers, or food crops, read the label to figure out the best way to complete an application. beetleGONE does not have any special requirements for food crops, but make sure to read the label to understand things like pre-harvest interval, or the amount of time you need to wait between applying and harvesting to prevent unsafe residue levels in your food. 

    • While it's not necessarily ideal to spray your entire yard on a regular basis, using Bt on some special plants in your garden that are particularly affected by beetles can be a practical approach. In Integrated Pest Management, it's important to use cultural, mechanical, and physical management approaches in addition to chemical approaches. If you have plants that Japanese beetles seem to love, it may be worth re-planting with a more resistant variety. 

    • Safety and personal protective equipment (PPE) requirements: Although some of these products are marketed as being "safe" and/or "natural", pay close attention to PPE requirements and environmental safety statements. Always wear long sleeves, long pants, shoes and socks, and gloves when handling pesticides, and wash your clothing separately from your household laundry. Look for statements about non-target organisms and sensitive sites on the label. 

What residual insecticides do you recommend for controlling Japanese beetles?

There are several residual insecticides that are effective, such as carbaryl and permethrin.  However, they will probably need to be applied more than once.  To protect bees, apply them during late evening after bees are no longer active. The products should be dry by morning when bees become active again.  Systemic insecticides are also effective and only need one application but do not apply them to plants that are bee attractive.  Large trees should be treated by a professional applicator. 

Can you manage the adult beetles by treating the grubs?

Treating grubs to reduce the beetles on your property is not effective. The adults are very mobile and can easily fly onto your property from adjacent areas. Only treat your turf if you are seeing grub damage to your lawn. Managing Japanese beetles in yards and gardens

Are traps effective?

Traps are not recommended.  Research has demonstrated that more beetles fly toward the traps than are caught, resulting in surplus beetles feeding on your plants.

Does squashing Japanese beetles attract more of them?

The concern is that this practice will release pheromones that may attract more adults. Females do produce a sex attractant that males respond to, but it is no longer produced after mating. The aggregations of adults observed on plants are caused by chemicals released by the plants in response to the adults feeding on them, and not attractants produced by the beetles.

Can anything be done for next year?

Japanese beetles can only be managed when the adults are active.  If you had a problem with JB this year, anticipate them being pests again next summer.  Monitor your susceptible plants starting the first week of July and take the appropriate management steps when you first start to see them feeding.

Moles and voles

Yes, the raised tunnels are a classic example/evidence of moles.  They do produce small mounds... sometimes, but not always.  Yes, they often create a void that might contain plant roots that will dry out and die.  So I'm convinced you have moles.  The chipmunks might occasionally enter a mole tunnel but not usually (but they certainly ARE mischief makers although you haven't described any typical issues here).   Your note about the adjacent landscape gives me a bit of pause.  Clearly there is a source population of moles so you might never 'solve' this problem.  It is more likely you should view any action as maintenance.  It's a bit like brushing your teeth - right after you do so, your teeth are perfect but they don't stay that way for long.  Your options seem to be:

1) do nothing and live with a little damage.  Depending on how much trouble the moles are causing, this might be an OK option.

However, if you decide to DO something, there are few options available for moles and all involve lethal control.

2) there are below-ground kill traps that are pretty effective and fairly easy to set.  Be sure to 'walk down' any raised tunnels before you begin so you can see where the moles are active.  Typically available in the big box stores would be a harpoon-style trap.  Be aware that, as the name suggests, the lethal results are not for the meek.  One advantage of this method is that you know if the trap is successful (i.e., there is a 'body' of evidence).  These traps shouldn't kill chipmunks as they are seldom below ground in mole tunnels.

3) there are below-ground mole-specific toxicants that are very effective.  They look like gummy worms (several companies make these, Talprid is a common brand (that I can neither endorse or disparage) if you want to confirm you are looking in the right section of the store.  The key is that these are placed IN THE BURROW, UNDERGROUND.  This vastly reduces the likelihood of secondary poisoning of owls, hawks, etc.  Moles almost never venture above ground so as long as you place the poison below ground and cover the small hole you dug to insert the poison, you shouldn't have much risk of secondary poisoning.  (and yes, many of these toxicants are really toxic to birds).   Lastly, be sure to carefully find toxicants only for moles.  Some toxic grains and the like targeting rodents say they would work on moles (which, technically is true), however, moles would never eat a grain or pelleted alfalfa product.  Moles eat insects and earthworms. PDF documents of a variety of pests including moles and chipmunks.

More about moles

If you are finding raised soil trails and your plants are suffering from having their roots just hanging loose in the trails but are not eaten, I think you are right: you have moles. Perhaps the entry points are located in the adjoining properties or among your other native plantings. Moles are carnivorehttps://apps.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/weed/woody/poisonivy.htmlphttps://apps.extension.umn.edu/garden/diagnose/weed/woody/poisonivy.htmls and most likely moved in because your yard has a healthy population of soil-dwelling insects. Kill-traps are the most recommended solution for mole control, though it would need to be repeated annually as new moles move into the territory each spring. Another suggested control method is to kill off those insects — like white grubs — with a chemical solution in mid-to-late summer. Moles will not eat the dead insects and so will likely not affect hunting raptors. However, that will affect which insects, primarily scarab beetles like June bugs or Japanese beetles, and what other animals will visit your landscape. If you have specific plants or garden beds that you want to protect, you can bury metal fencing (hardware cloth) 12-inches deep with an outward-pointing flare at the bottom (deepest) part.

Resources:  https://extension2.missouri.edu/g9440, https://extension.psu.edu/moles

Pesticide use language

MGs: Please use the followinglanguage in your answers as applicable.

The information given herein is supplied with the understanding that no discrimination is intended and no endorsement by the University of Minnesota Extension. Mention of a pesticide or use of a pesticide label is for educational purposes only.

A pesticide label is a legal document. Always follow the pesticide label directions attached to the pesticide container you are using. Pesticide labels may change frequently. Internet labels may not match the label on the container you are using. The site of use or plant to which the pesticide is to be applied must be listed on the label or the pesticide cannot be used. Remember, the label is the law.

Pesticide Exposure or Drift

If you suspect your landscape has been affected by pesticide drift, please contact the Minnesota Department of Agriculture. This agency regulates the use, application, storage, sale, handling and disposal of agricultural chemicals. https://www.mda.state.mn.us/pesticide-fertilizer/regulation-inspection-enforcement 

Plant Related

Where can I buy ...?

Search the Minnesota Grown directory: http://minnesotagrown.com/memberdirectory

Just enter your zip code and click on "Nursery and Landscaping" then "Vegetable plants" and click the search button.

Looking for a specific plant

You can find sources for plants as well as citations through the U of M Landscape Arboretum "Plant Information Online" database: http://plantinfo.umn.edu/

Just enter the scientific or the common name of the plant, click search and click on the of the plant. This is also a good source for seed.

Do I need a license or permission to propagate and sell fruit varieties that were developed by the University of Minnesota? 

It depends. If a plant variety is under an active patent or patent has been applied for, it is not legal to propagate it without permission. This includes fruits as well as other landscape plants.  Here is a table about fruits licensing and patents: UMN fruit licensing info & USPPs

All the fruit varieties under patent protection are in the table in the document. So if your volunteers get a question related to a specific variety on the list, they can look it up. If it's no longer or never were under patent protection, then there isn't a license or permission required.

Fruit cultivar identification

From Dr. Jim Luby, Professor and fruit breeder, Horticulture, UMN

We can not positively identify a cultivar visually though we can sometimes make a guess. The history of the plant is very important and unfortunately, people often don't know it. However, you can read about the plant especially if they know it's a University release and narrow down your fruit ID to 2-3 cultivars based on size, color, fruiting time. etc. Here are some resources to help:

VIDEO: How to Identify Your Apple Tree https://youtu.be/1xFw1YmIu-E

U of M varietal releases: http://mnhardy.umn.edu/varieties/fruit/apples/all-apple-varieties 

Extension Yard & Garden Fruits: https://extension.umn.edu/find-plants/fruit

Also, here is a nice discussion about identifying apple varieties. Though it is written about English varieties, all the principles are universal. 

http://www.suttonelms.org.uk/apple55.html

If you want to pursue more conclusive testing, UC-Davis will accept samples for DNA fingerprinting: http://fpms.ucdavis.edu/IDTesting.html

Apple tree bloomed but did not bear fruit

Just to confirm, you need two different cultivars of apples for cross-pollination and fruit. Some cultivars are more compatible because of bloom time. 

Here's a list of cultivars as an FYI: http://mnhardy.umn.edu/varieties/fruit/apples/allapplevarieties

Lack of fruiting can also be attributed to a tree's maturity/age and lack of pollinators, in particular honeybees. Spraying for insects can affect the bee population as can lack of flowers aside from apple blossoms. In some cases, cool wet springs can be detrimental to bee activity as well. You can encourage bees to visit your apple trees by planting early blooming flowers that are nutritious for bees. Here's a good list of plants for MN bees. Note the bloom time: https://www.beelab.umn.edu/sites/beelab.umn.edu/files/plants_mn_bees.pdf

Here is a list of plants for the Great Lakes region (our region in MN) from the Xerces Society: http://www.xerces.org/publications/plant-lists/pollinator-plants-great-lakes-region

If you have plenty of pollinators and at least two compatible cultivars, your trees may just be too young to fruit, Fruit trees need to reach a certain age before they will fruit. Depending on the apple cultivar, it's likely they are just reaching maturity and you will have fruiting next year. 

In addition to the above, note that pruning is key to a healthy, well-formed tree. This webpage contains excellent Extension resources for growing and caring for apples:  https://extension.umn.edu/find-plants/fruit#apples--36410

Apples - Winter damage

From Dr. Emily Hoover, Professor emeritus, Horticulture, UMN

Healthy new growth in spring suddenly shrivels and dies. The tree has enough stored carbohydrates in the wood to get the buds growing in the spring. But the underlying vascular tissue that conducts water has died or been significantly injured. When the first warmish days arrive, and water is needed, the buds wilt and die due to a lack of water from the root system. 

Aster Yellows

This pathogen can only be transmitted from plant to plant by a leafhopper feeding first an infected plant and then on a healthy plant after a two week waiting period. Also, the pathogen will not survive in plant debris. So remove the infected plant and place it on the compost pile. Hot composting is not necessary. Once the plant dies, the pathogen will die with it. The pathogen will not move from the roots into a new plant so replanting at the site is not a problem even if some roots remain. You will only need to remove enough roots to make sure the infected plant cannot re-sprout.

Can concrete block be used for raised beds?

https://extension.umd.edu/resource/safety-materials-used-building-raised-beds 

Spruce Tree Issues

UMN Extension has several webpages about evergreen diseases including spruce diseases. 

From the MN DNR: Diagnosing Spruce Problems

Girdling tree trunks

Vascular plants like trees have tissues called xylem (the wood) and phloem (the inner layer of bark). Sugars produced in the leaves through photosynthesis are moved from the leaves to the roots via the phloem. This process supports the transport of water and nutrients from the roots through the xylem to the rest of the tree. Sometimes animals such as rabbits will “girdle” a tree by eating through the bark and removing the phloem tissues, interrupting the ability of the phloem to transport sugars. The xylem may continue short-term transporting water and nutrients; however, tree health is compromised and will result in decline and ultimately death.

When a request to identify a plant is difficult ...

It's taken a while to respond to your question because we aren't sure what the plant is. Here's why: Master gardeners know a lot about plants, but most aren't botanists or horticulturalists. Some plants are easy to identify because they are common or have distinctive features that make it simple to find them in reference books and on-line resources. Others are difficult to name because they are uncommon or resemble so many other plants that they can only be accurately identified by noting minute comparative details in structure, size, blossoms, fruit, etc. that can only be seen with the plants in hand. Because such details often aren't visible in photos, even plant experts may not be able to identify them. You are welcome to re-submit pictures when / if the plant blooms or changes in some other significant way that could help us to identify the plant for you. 

Seasons - How do plants detect the seasons?

Plants detect photoperiod or length of the night. As the length of night decreases, or the length of day increases, in the spring plants will perceive this change and react according to previously determined genetic systems arrived at through natural selection. There are plants that flower in reaction to lengthening days (examples: Pea (Pisum sativum), Cabbage (Brassica),  Spinach (Spinacea),  coneflowers, California poppies) and plants that flower in reaction to shortening days (chrysanthemums, poinsettias, coffee, cosmos). There are plants that flower but such flowering is not governed by photoperiod e.g. day neutral strawberries.  

Trees and flowering

Most temperate fruit trees have a chilling requirement. I believe this is the cold you are referring to relative to oranges. The chilling requirement of a fruit is the minimum period of cold weather after which a fruit-bearing tree will blossom. It is often expressed in chill hours, which can be calculated in different ways, all of which essentially involves adding up the total amount of time in a winter spent at certain temperatures. Because oranges are a semi-tropical crop chilling has different effects. 

Chilling of orange trees has two effects. First, it increases the production of carotenoids and decreases chlorophyll content of the fruit, improving their appearance and, ultimately, their market value. Second, the "quasi-dormancy" experienced by orange trees triggers concentrated flowering in spring, as opposed to more or less uniform round-the-year flowering and fruiting in warmer climates.

We humans have moved plants from their native environments to our gardens. Tomatoes originated in warmer regions and we have planted them in regions to which they are not naturally adapted. They can survive if we provide optimum growing conditions. Tomatoes basically suffer under cool temperatures as do most plants in the Solanaceae e.g. eggplant, and peppers. Other cool-season plants like cabbage and broccoli tolerate and thrive under cooler conditions.

Pollinators

Why so few pollinators this year? A response  from Dr. Elaine Evans, Extension educator and bee researcher at the UMN, if people ask why they saw many bees on their property last year, but have seen hardly any this year and yet they say they are doing everything right (no pesticides, bee-friendly plants, etc.)

This year's population is more dependent on what happened last year than what is happening now. Populations of bees other than honey bees are highly variable and normally go through huge ups and downs. Unfortunately, there is little to be done other than planting flowers, avoiding pesticides, providing nesting habitat, and hoping for the best.

Pesticides

Here is a standard statement about pesticide use for Horticulture correspondence:

IMPORTANT: The information contained at this (email) (web site) is not a substitute for a pesticide label. Always read pesticide labels prior to use. Follow the label directions attached to the pesticide container you are using. Remember, the label is the law.

Disclaimer: Mention of a pesticide or use of a pesticide label is for educational purposes only. Trade names used herein are for convenience only, No endorsement of products is intended, nor is criticism of unnamed products implied. 

Fungicides for controlling cedar apple rust

Always read the pesticide label before applying as some pesticides are labeled for ornamentals, but not edible plants. Copper is typically not a good choice on apples because it can cause russeting of the fruit. Sulfur is an option but often provides limited control. Myclobutanil is your best choice. To use this you will need a fungicide that is labeled for use on apple trees. There may be multiple products of the same active ingredient; however, if production (eating) apples are not specifically listed on the product label,  you cannot use it on your trees. Here is a product that does list apple on the label and would be an appropriate size for a home garden. 

http://www.spectracide.com/products/disease-and-fungus-control/plant-disease-fungus-control/spectracide-immunox-multipurpose-fungicide-spray-concentrate-for-gardens.aspx

The application would need to be applied when the orange telial horns (gooey orange tentacles) are being produced on the cedar trees. This is typically early spring and the label states that application starting at pink bud (flower buds just emerging) will protect the tree from rust.  Protecting the trees with the fungicide will only be necessary as long as the galls are producing spores. When the weather turns hot and dry for summer, the galls die and you can stop spraying. Keep an eye on your local eastern red cedars after a rainstorm to know when the galls are done for the season. 

As always read and follow all instructions on the pesticide label. 

Michelle Grabowski, former UMN Extension plant pathologist

Soil

Interpreting soil test results

Please help us to interpret our soil test and recommendations.

Start by reading the section "Understanding your report" found on the U of M Soil Lab website http://soiltest.cfans.umn.edu/. This will give you background on the results. Also read the back or second page of your results. It also has excellent information.

Here is a good place to start when learning about lawn care. https://extension.umn.edu/lawns-and-landscapes/lawn-care

Note the easy to read lawn care calendar: https://extension.umn.edu/planting-and-growing-guides/lawn-care-calendar

Your soil test results:

You can learn several key things about your soil from a soil test. Starting at the top left:

• • • Coarse texture indicates you have sandy soil which means you have good drainage.

    • 12.7% organic matter (OM) made up of decomposing plant debris like leaves, grass, wood chips, etc. Take a look at the second page of your results - you'll see 12.7% is a high level of OM in your soil. This is good considering you have sandy soil as OM will improve water-holding capacity in your soil - something sandy soil needs to create a favorable growing environment for plant roots.

    •  7.4 pH - A majority of nutrients are available to plants at soil pH levels of 6.5 - 7.5, so your pH is at a good level.

    • Looking at the scales for phosphorous (P) and potassium (K) in the middle of the page, you'll note both are very high. In general, P is important to promoting flowering/fruiting, and K is important to root growth and plant development. Phosphorous naturally occurs in most central and southern MN soils so it's not often we need to add P. Note that P clings to soil particles - it doesn't leach through soil like nitrogen. This is a key reason for concern about soil erosion into waterways.

    • You'll see there is no scale for nitrogen (N). This is because N is a mobile nutrient - it leaches through soil - and thus we need to add it regularly.

Your soil test results reflect a fertilizer recommendation of 33-0-0 (N-P-K). You'll see on the lawn care calendar (above) that you should NOT apply fertilizer during heat of summer. Our lawn grasses are cool-season grasses, meaning they grow actively in spring and fall. During summer months like July, they are relatively dormant and growing very little. They may even appear slightly brown - this is normal. Fertilizing grass during dormancy can stress the lawn by forcing active growth when it should be reserving resources for fall growth starting around August. Measure your area to figure out how many sq ft of lawn. You can purchase N for lawns as granular urea (pure N) at farm stores and garden centers. If your soil is dry, water your lawn before applying your fertilizer and after. Use a drop spreader or hand-held spreader to apply. When your lawn starts actively growing again in August, add N at a rate of 1 lb per 1000 sq ft. Again, wait to apply this in August (see the lawn care calendar). 

Water test shows high level of arsenic in my water. How will this affect vegetable plants? 

Answer: I am guessing you had your well water tested. Because of this, you should consider methods to remove arsenic from your water before using it. Here is a webpage about two methods: reverse osmosis and absorptive media (the latter being more affordable): https://www.wrc.umn.edu/arsenicwells

You'll want to employ a hydrologist to help with this process.

Re: plants absorption of arsenic, the following webpage addresses contaminants in soils and includes some information about plants and arsenic: https://z.umn.edu/urbansoils

If you have been using this well, you'll also want to have a soil test done. Our UMN soil lab does not test for arsenic as far as I know, but you can contact them and ask them for a resource that does: soiltest.cfans.umn.edu