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Think about a piece of clothing that you own.
Who made the fabric? How was it dyed? Where did it come from? Where will it go when you are done with it?
These are the questions that the Fast Fashion Industry doesn't want you to think about.
What is Fast Fashion?
According to Merriam-Webster:
The Fast Fashion Industry Consists of Stores Such As...
What does Fast Fashion have to do with Climate Change?
Fast fashion is a product of, and heavily contributes to, overconsumption
The textile industry uses many toxic chemicals, consumes a high amount of energy and water, and releases microfibers into the environment
People laboring to make these clothes for such a cheap price endure harmful working conditions and do not get paid enough to live
There is not enough transparency about where or how clothes are made, which means we unknowingly buy clothes that are harmful for the planet and people living here
Overconsumption...
What does that mean?
Overconsumption means that we humans are buying and disposing of products at a faster rate than we can sustain, which causes harm to ecosystems and a loss of resources.
Fast fashion is produced and disposed of at an alarming rate: Americans consume clothing at a faster rate than any other country in the world.
The average US citizen throws away approximately 80 pounds of clothing annually. In America, that results in roughly 3.8 billion pounds thrown away every year. Since numbers are hard to grasp, think about it this way:
If 100 pounds of trashed clothing = a paperclip (1 inch)
1,000 pounds = An envelope (10 inches)
1 million pounds = the length of around 2.8 football fields (278 yards)
1 billion pounds = The distance between Yarmouth ME and Plymouth MA (157 miles)
3.8 billion pounds = The distance between Augusta ME and Washington DC (around 600 miles)
So 3.8 billion pounds of clothes thrown away every year in America is a big number.
And all of that is being either landfilled, incinerated, or ends up in the environment.
The problem with fast fashion is really how cheap and fast it is.
According to Business Insider, it only takes Zara, ASOS, Boohoo, and Misguided "between one and eight weeks to get a product from concept to sale". Most fast fashion stores receive new clothing shipments daily.
Since they produce at such high speeds, the number of clothing being produced has doubled since 2000. To keep up with this rapid pace, their clothes are usually not of very high quality. Instead, they opt for producing an enormous volume of clothes very cheaply, so the average American will continue buying more and more clothes when trends change.
Americans keep buying more and more clothing, but what do we do with the old clothing?
According to a report by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, over 50% of fast fashion produced is disposed of in less than a year. Even if you donate your used items, Goodwill has to throw away much of the clothing that is donated because there it simply too much for them to sell- often people will donate their clothes only 6 months after the garment was sold in stores. The average number of times a garment is worn before it is thrown away has decreased by 36%, as shown in the graph below.
Fast Fashion is perpetuating this mindset of disposability- wear your clothes once or a few times, then get rid of them and come back to buy more. This mindset is really profitable for the industry because it encourages consumers to keep coming back for more clothes again and again; the founder of Zara is the third richest person in Europe. This technique makes billionaires richer, and it is unfortunately very destructive to the environment and low-paid workers.
How is Fast Fashion so cheap?
Sweatshops.
Although the cost of fashion fashion may not be felt in your pocket, it's certainly felt elsewhere: in the sweatshops. These companies choose to manufacture in countries with extremely low minimum wages, like China.
Companies working to produce garments for fast fashion are looking to create clothes for the lowest price at the fastest rate. This leads to people working in sweatshops for long hours for an unlivable wage. In addition, many chemicals used to dye clothes are hazardous to workers who touch or inhale them.
Worst of all, this isn't new. A report about these business practices by Jay Kerr revealed that companies were doing this in 2002. This is an ongoing issue that often gets overlooked because it's convenient and cheap.
It's not just the making of clothes, it's the making of textiles too.
The Textile Industry...
What is that?
The textile industry produces and distributes textiles such as cloth (from cotton), yarn (from fibers), and synthetic materials (from polymers), that the fast fashion industry uses to make clothing.
What are the environmental problems with the Textile Industry?
1. Salt
The textile industry uses a lot of salt to help dyes stick to clothes. Sadly, salts end up in waste water and kills fish, along with ruining soil farmers need to grow food in. And this is large scale: The textile industry uses 95,000 tonnes of salt annually but does not try to remove it from or prevent it from getting into the water.
2. Water
Producing a single T-shirt requires 700 gallons of water! The industry really needs to reduce how much water they use, but the number of textiles produced has doubled since 2000, and is expected to grow exponentially more. This would require the industry to use even more water. The environmental impacts are already damaging enough, and this increase in production will only increase the environmental impact.
3. Dyes and chemicals
20% of industrial water pollution comes from the dyes and chemicals used in producing textiles. The dyes that the industry uses contain heavy metals and hazardous toxins that often find their way into local water systems. As a result, the animals and people who live in those areas don't have safe drinking and bathing water.
Transparency...
What does that mean?
Transparency is when corporations are open and honest about communicating information such as:
Labor policy
Source of materials
Financial information
Waste management
Protection of environment
What you don't know can hurt you
When trying to research the impact of specific companies, one will come across these kinds of articles, often found in online magazines:
"Doesn't provide transparent information about its practices" (goodonyou.com)
"Provides insufficient relevant information about how it reduces its impact" (goodonyou.com)
"Delivers inadequate appropriate evidence about how it decreases its influence" (fashion-manufacturing.com)
"Cider has got to initiate methods for uncovering more data on how items are manufactured, where they are made, who produces them" (fashion-manufacturing.com)
"SHEIN still has zero transparency when it comes to its supply chain" (aninjusticemag.com)
"notorious for its murky ethics and sustainability" (goodonyou.com)
"SHEIN is as opaque as a brand can get" (goodonyou.com)
"has much to answer to in terms of how and where it makes its clothes and under which conditions" (fashionunited.com)
"the brand’s impact on the planet will always be questionable" (goodonyou.com)
"no evidence it ensures payment of a living wage across its entire supply chain" (goodonyou.com)
"it has received an 'It’s a Start' rating" (goodonyou.com)
"There is no evidence it minimises textile waste ... no evidence Urban Outfitters ensures payment of a living wage ... no evidence it traces any animal products to the first stage of production ... no evidence that its 'policies' regarding labour and transparency in the supply chain are actually undertaken" (goodonyou.com)
"scored a measly 11-20% in the Fashion Transparency Index" (wear-next.com)
"The brand doesn’t have a published animal welfare policy" (wear-next.com)
Seeing how little information the industry reveals, most fast fashion companies are not being transparent enough about their labor policies, sourcing of materials, waste management, and protection of the environment
Instead, they are greenwashing us into believing that buying from them has no negative impact.
Greenwashing...
What is that?
Greenwashing is the term used to describe when businesses make claims to be sustainable or eco-friendly, but do not follow through with the claims or use them for marketing purposes only.
The fast fashion industry has a big problem with greenwashing.
For example, SHEIN's website claims that they "believe that reducing supply chain waste (is a) ... key starting point to building an environmentally sustainable industry" yet they have no evidence of reducing their supply chain waste. Additionally, they claim to have "invested in costlier ... printing technologies in an effort to reduce water use throughout the production process". Again, they have no evidence to back up these claims.
This a common theme with nearly every fast fashion company.
So this is kind of depressing...
What are some solutions?
One solution is what the Ellen MacArthur Foundation defines as "A New Textiles Economy"
The First Step: Phase Out Substances of Concern and Microfiber Release
This would mean using safe materials, natural dyes, and not using petroleum-based plastics that release microfibers. For cases where they would have to use plastic, making sure there is a way to collect the microfibers that are released. This would require a greater understanding of when and how microfibers are released in the production process.
Image source: grist.org
The Second Step: Increase Clothing Utilisation
This would mean breaking free from the mindset and nature of disposable clothing. The fashion industry would have to design and produce higher-quality clothing, as well as actually commit to sustainable labor policies- not make empty claims. For consumers who want to constantly change their wardrobes, more rental systems such as Rent the Runway should be put into place. One can rent garments of clothing before buying or returning them, and then they can get re-rented to someone else until they're not wearable anymore. That way, clothing would get reused as much as possible and wouldn't needlessly end up in landfills.
Image source: renttherunway.com
The Third Step: Radically Improving Textile Recycling
This would mean creating new technologies that can recycle textiles better, and also creating a market for recycled textiles. Currently fast fashion companies don't think about, or care about, what happens to their clothes after the consumer doesn't want them anymore, so an important part of this step would be making sure that the corporations making the textiles are responsible for recycling them: a concept largely known as Producer Responsibility.
Image source: circular.clothing/blog
The Fourth Step: Making Effective Use of Resources and Moving to Renewable Inputs
This step would consist of using plant-based fibres, regenerative agriculture, less chemicals, and transitioning to less wasteful production processes.
Image source: researchgate.net
Of course the logistics of this "New Textiles Economy" are complicated. We would need better recycling technology, more demand for recycled materials, and large-scale clothing collection systems, but it's definitely possible if we commit to it.
This leads up to the second solution...
Policy.
Companies aren't going to change unless they are forced to; they are so focused on making money, that they have a really hard time thinking about the harmful effects of their practices. We need stricter rules around transparency, more Producer Responsibility laws that make the industry deal with the end-of-life of their clothing, and laws that place restrictions on how clothes can be manufactured.
For example, The European Union is now proposing new standards for how durable and reusable manufactured clothing needs to be and is introducing bans on destroying unsold clothing.
These big visions and new systems are great, but
What can we do as individuals?
Instead of spending your money at the mall, go to a thrift store
They have awesome prices, and you never know what you'll find!
Beni is a thrifting app and browser extension that allows you to easily find resale clothing that matches your personal style and favorite brands.
Find thrift stores near you on google or yelp!
Join other individuals across the world who are protesting against fast fashion industries.
During Paris Fashion Week, 26-year old activist Marie Cohuet "crashed the runway" at a Louis Vuitton Fashion Show with a white banner reading the words "Overconsumption = Extinction"
In Buenos Aires, Argentina, members of Extinction Rebellion protested outside the storefront of Zara by wearing clothing made of out of plastic and recycled materials
Image source: Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times
Image source: euronews.com
In London, members of Extinction Rebellion protested the biannual London Fashion Week and asked the organizers to cancel it, because humanity is "facing a climate emergency" and hosting the event would promote the fast fashion industry's unsustainable practices.
Image source: change-climate.com
Image source: change-climate.com
The fast fashion industry shouldn't be allowed to get away with destroying our environment and the people in it any longer.
Bibliography
From Gale In Context Database:
"Dye hard: Can you colour cloth without ruining soil and killing fish? (Frontiers)." New Scientist, vol. 172, no. 2319, 1 Dec. 2001, p. 23. Gale In Context: High School, link.gale.com/apps/doc/A80949194/SUIC?u=yarm56728&sid=bookmark- SUIC&xid=f488508a. Accessed 28 Apr. 2022.
"Fashion / Textile Industry Reeling: Still Producing More Greenhouse Gas Emissions Than Aviation and Shipping Combined." PR Newswire, 12 Feb. 2020. Gale In Context: High School, link.gale.com/apps/doc/A613720060/SUIC? u=yarm56728&sid=bookmark-SUIC&xid=1e4118e6. Accessed 28 Apr. 2022.
"In Trendy World Of Fast Fashion, Styles Aren't Made To Last." All Things Considered, 11 Mar. 2013. Gale In Context: High School, link.gale.com/apps/doc/A323247186/SUIC?u=yarm56728&sid=bookmark-SUIC&xid=e1e32ba6. Accessed 28 Apr. 2022.
Reports and News Sources:
A New Textiles Economy - Full Report | Shared by Fashion. https://emf.thirdlight.com/link/2axvc7eob8zx-za4ule/@/preview/1?o. Accessed 30 Apr. 2022.
A New Textiles Economy: Redesigning Fashion’s Future. https://ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/a-new-textiles-economy. Accessed 30 Apr. 2022.
Bick, Rachel, et al. “The Global Environmental Injustice of Fast Fashion.” Environmental Health, vol. 17, no. 1, Dec. 2018, p. 92. BioMed Central, https://doi.org/10.1186/s12940-018-0433-7.
“Extinction Rebellion Protests Argentina’s Fast Fashion.” Euronews, 23 Dec. 2021, https://www.euronews.com/2021/12/23/extinction-rebellion-protests-argentina-s-fast-fashion.
FAST FASHION CLOTHING WEEK LONDON PROTESTS EXTINCTION REBELLION. http://www.change-climate.com/Protests_Climate_Change_Demonstrators_Protestors/Extinction_Rebellion/Fast_Fashion_Week_Clothing_Extinction_Rebellion_Protests_London_British_Council.htm. Accessed 30 Apr. 2022.
Gallois, Léontine. “A Climate Activist Walked in the Louis Vuitton Fashion Show.” The New York Times, 6 Oct. 2021. NYTimes.com, https://www.nytimes.com/2021/10/06/fashion/louis-vuitton-protester-paris-fashion-week.html.
Hernandez, Joe. “Europe Has Designs on Making the ‘fast Fashion’ Industry More Sustainable.” NPR, 3 Apr. 2022. NPR, https://www.npr.org/2022/03/31/1089819609/fast-fashion-sustainability-european-commission.
“It’s Time to Dismantle Fast Fashion and Its Exploitative Practices.” Euronews, 10 July 2020, https://www.euronews.com/green/2020/07/10/exploitation-and-sweatshops-are-at-the-core-of-fast-fashion-it-s-time-to-dismantle-the-sys.
Online Magazines (For purpose of comparing research):
Adegeest, Don-Alvin. “Shein Called out for Lack of Supply Chain Transparency - Again.” FashionUnited, 6 Aug. 2021, https://fashionunited.com/news/fashion/shein-called-out-for-lack-of-supply-chain-transparency-again/2021080641432.
Hanbury, Mary. “Goodwill Stores Are Filling up with Cheap Pieces No One Wants — and It Reveals a Huge Problem with the Way People Shop for Clothes.” Business Insider, https://www.businessinsider.com/goodwill-overrun-with-fast-fashion-donations-2018-2. Accessed 30 Apr. 2022.
“How Ethical Is Cider?” Good On You, 21 Dec. 2021, https://goodonyou.eco/how-ethical-is-cider/.
“How Ethical Is H&M?” Good On You, 1 Feb. 2022, https://goodonyou.eco/how-ethical-is-hm/.
“How Ethical Is SHEIN?” Good On You, 23 Mar. 2021, https://goodonyou.eco/how-ethical-is-shein/.
“How Ethical Is Urban Outfitters?” Good On You, 1 Sept. 2021, https://goodonyou.eco/how-ethical-is-urban-outfitters/.
Is Shop Cider Clothing Legit? Is Cider Fast Fashion? (+FAQs). 18 Mar. 2022, https://fashion-manufacturing.com/is-cider-clothing-legit-fast-fashion/.
Is Urban Outfitters Ethical and Sustainable? - Wear Next. 13 Mar. 2022, https://wear-next.com/sustainable-fashion/is-urban-outfitters-ethical-and-sustainable/.
Jgln, Katie. “Can Ultra-Fast Fashion Giants Like Shein Ever Rehabilitate Their Image?” Medium, 3 Sept. 2021, https://aninjusticemag.com/can-ultra-fast-fashion-giants-like-shein-ever-rehabilitate-their-image-41ee83950de.
Company Websites:
Sustainability & Social Impact | SHEIN USA. https://us.shein.com/sustainability-social-impact-a-1183.html. Accessed 30 Apr. 2022.