The Christmas sound of York Minster 

Liam Herringshaw

November 12, 2023

I was looking for a festive photo of York to advertize our upcoming Hidden Christmas walks, and couldn't find anything. Then I remembered this map:

"Christmas Sound on the SW Coast of Terra Del Fuego"

December 1774, and James Cook is on the final part of his second voyage, circumnavigating the globe and trying to locate Terra Australis. He and his crew spend the festive period in a large bay on the western side of Tierra del Fuego. They dub it Christmas Sound.

Perhaps pining for Yorkshire, or being confused after so long at sea, Cook also decides that one of the bay's rocky peninsular headlands reminds him of his county town cathedral, and christens it accordingly.

"Viewed from the situation we now were in, it terminated in two high towers; and, within them, a hill shaped like a sugar-loaf. This wild rock, therefore, obtained the name of York Minster"

York Minster (image from gutenberg.org)

February 1830, and another British expedition is in the area: the first voyage of the Beagle, captained by Robert FitzRoy.

"28th. Weighed, warped to windward, and made sail out of Adventure Passage. I was very anxious to reach Christmas Sound, because it seemed to me a good situation for the Beagle, while the boats could go east and west of her, and the new boat might be built. Running along the land, before a fresh breeze, we soon saw York Minster, and in the evening entered Christmas Sound, and anchored in the very spot where the Adventure lay when Cook was here. His sketch of the sound, and description of York Minster, are very good, and quite enough to guide a ship to the anchoring place. I fancied that the high part of the Minster must have crumbled away since he saw it, as it no longer resembled 'two towers,' but had a ragged, notched summit, when seen from the westward."

So, basically, it looked nothing much like the Minster, but FitzRoy upheld captains' honour, or something. Honour was definitely lacking a couple of days later, though, when FitzRoy kidnapped a local young man, El'leparu, to act as a translator. The crew of the Beagle renamed their hostage York Minster and brought him back to England.

Three years later, and the second voyage of the Beagle finds FitzRoy trying once again to land in Christmas Sound, to take the kidnapped El'leparu back to his native land. The diary of the expedition naturalist - one Charles Darwin - explains why they didn't succeed:

"1833: Janu 11th
A very strong breeze, with heavy squalls; by carrying a press of sail, we fetched within a mile of Christmas Sound. — This rough precipitous coast is known by a mountain which from its castellated form was called by Capt. Cook York Minster. We saw it only to be disappointed, a violent squall forced us to shorten sail & stand out to sea. — To give an idea of the fury of the unbroken ocean, clouds of spray were carried over a precipice which must have been 200 feet high."

El'leparu was not returned to Christmas Sound; a few days later, they deposited him elsewhere in Tierra del Fuego. Very little is known of his post-hostage life.

York Minster, Bearing S 66' E (Wikimedia Commons)

As for York Minster, it features in the 1890 image (above) by Robert Taylor Pritchett, but I can't find any indication that the name continued to be used. Nonetheless, Cook and FitzRoy's co-ordinates make clear that it is mountainous promontory at the southernmost end of present-day Isla Waterman, Chile.

If you're familiar with the geography of that part of the world, let me know if it rings any bells.

Political map of Tierra del Fuego, including Isla Waterman

(from Wikimedia Commons: Chilean territory shown in orange; Argentinian territory in pale yellow).