MY MARKET LEVEL

My Market level – LONDON FASHION WEEK (GRADUATE WORK)

Here are some of the graduate level designers from London Fashion weeks as they demonstrate couture and the way they make their 3D garments and style is what I aspire to.

Figure 4: Accidental Cutting

I like the creativity of making something accidental but futuristic and that’s my aim to be creative and pushing boundaries of couture.

It is a brand by an architect and fashion designer (Eva Iszoro) and has a book Titled: (experimental pattern cutting method: Accidental Cutting) which is about finding abstract structures, non-existent volumes and accidental cuts and patterns. These different shapes are applied in their design work.

Figures 5,6,7 AMORPHOUS STUDIO

I really like the methods and structures of the pieces of the futuristic garments and the graduates title of work really fits their garments, I love the fluidity and style of the collection and design work. This is something I want to achieve.

Their designs are created using virtual technology and NFT’S in the fashion company which does digital production and looks into traditional fashion (like myself). They built China’s first Chinese meta verse virtual fashion house and through a fantasy virtual design style.

The Shape and form is creative and I love the curvature and harsh futuristic line work and the use of bold colour and a conceptual feel to work which I will use.

“The most beautiful experience we can have is the mysterious. It is the
fundamental emotion which stands at the cradle of true art and true science.”

-  Jonathan Rayson

It’s a cinematic and universe exploration of nature and human form through art, architecture and physical/digital area of making, with traditional aesthetics and future innovation style, also with a luxury and expressive concept.

Figure 8: Jonathan Rayson

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This is one of my favourites of the graduates, I love the pieces that are detailed over the garment itself, it really adds the conceptual theme of work I want to use and the concept is really strong and is shown through his work, I will add this technique on my garments.

“siyun huang® Studio is based at the intersection of pioneering fashion, conceptual art and cutting-edge technology, which has officially founded in Beijing, China in 2022, and is becoming a more and more impressive,  and energetic interdisciplinary creative studio. It provides customized design and consultant services for individual users, brands and institutions in the fashion industry and digitalisation.” – Graduate Fashion Week Siyun Huang

He explores the beauty, balance and showing artificial order in an aesthetic way, and spirituality and Eastern culture is not defined as clothing or fashion but a multi sensory dimension and connecting to the virtual world and smart wearables. They are art creations and digital couture which is the experience of virtual to reality.

In the Future: “ Siyun huang®  is seeking collaborations with more AI labs, AR/VR/XR technology teams, life science labs, digital manufacturers and other advanced technology suppliers in the future.”

Figure 9: Siyun Huang

Figure 10: Xander Zhou

It has a conceptual feeling and is different in the way they use their shapes and is inspiring to not worry and be creative with the style of work.

He connects to his culture (like myself) and is looking into his Asian roots and oriental mysticism and futuristic modernity of Asia. He created his diverse universe and shows all identities of diversity of ethnic, racial, cultural, sexual and gender and his imagination and vision of evolution.

SUMMARY OF My Market level – LONDON FASHION WEEK (GRADUATE WORK)

All of these garments reflect and link to my work because of the exaggeration and innovative shapes and structures used to make something more aesthetically appealing. I want to use this connection of unique and creative style because I want to conceptualise my traditional culture so that when the audience sees my garments, they are captured by the innovative appearance, but also appreciate when they see in detail, the cultural fabrics used on top of my conceptual garment. Integrating these traditional fabrics, illustrations or photographs will showcase my Spanish culture. In order to achieve this, I will be investigating and exploring how the garments are manipulated, using several innovative techniques and material colouring. This is very inspiring.

Brands : COUTURE DESIGNERS THAT INSPIRE ME-

Iris Van Herpen

  Figure 11: SS20,Paris    Figure: 12 FALL 2021 COUTURE  Figure 13: Hypnosis collection                            

I have been always inspired by Iris Van Herpes’s designs as she pushes the boundaries of conceptual couture and her creativity of making garments at the highest quality is truly inspiring; I want to create the way she does but with my style.

As her designs show unpredictable movement, I like the concept of fusing science with her own vision and collaborating with different artists, architects and researchers. Like Van Herpen, I will follow the willingness to experiment, exploring with new fabrics created by blending different materials and incorporating unexpected materials and pushing the boundaries of technologies such as 3-D printing.

“She had a difficult time with sewing and making garments with sewing machines…” ( which I also relate to) “and she then found the innovation of having 3D printing, with contact of architects and other fields of work, and created phenomenal 3D couture fashion”  Vogue- Emily Farra 2017

NERI OXMAN

Figure 14: Zuhal,         Figure 15:                              Figure 16:

Saturn’s Wanderer       Mercurys                           Luna’s wanderer                     

2014                                   wanderer                                   Stratasys   

I recently found Neri Oxman’s work and I am astonished on how aesthetically pleasing it is to look at his work. Like Iris Van Herpen’s, I love the colours, texture, volume and creativity of these wearable structures. I can see that they look like biological ‘out-of-this-world’ structures and appear like coral and planet environments, a technique I would like to adopt. The structures created something unique, a creativity and out of this world style.

According to Say (2019), ‘Traveling to destinations beyond planet Earth involves voyages to hostile landscapes and deadly environments. Crushing gravity, amonious air, prolonged darkness, and temperatures that would boil glass or freeze carbon dioxide, all but eliminate the likelihood of human visitation.’

Alexander Mcqueen

  FIG.14                          FIG.15                                  FIG.16

Fall-Winter 2010/11     spring- summer                      spring 2010

   collection                          2008                                 collection

The appearance of Alexander McQueen’s work is a contemporary, conceptual couture style; but he has a creative and a ‘not caring’ way of showing his work, disregarding others’ opinions. McQueen makes really bold statements in the way he presents his garments; it is not the same as other conceptual designers, it is more creative in manner. According to Biography (2022):

“Deciding to further his clothes-making career, McQueen moved on from Savile Row and began working with theatrical costume designers Angels and Bermans. The dramatic style of the clothing he made there would become a signature of his later independent design work. McQueen then left London for a short stint in Milan, where he worked as a design assistant to Italian fashion designer Romeo Gigli.”  Biography. (2022). 

Looking at his work and researching more about him, the more I am inspired by his story and the way his creativity and signature really show through his garments, and I want to show my signature as a designer and express my story as well as a Fashion Designer and being creative through my career.