This pattern uses a smaller square tile at each corner of a larger square to mimic the look of a spinning pinwheel. This layout is a popular flooring pattern, especially with ceramic tile or in small bathrooms.

Similar to herringbone, this layout instead has the shorter end of the tiles lined up to form a mitered 45-degree joint. Unless your tile is specifically designed for this layout, it will have to be cut to fit.


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The Blazor UI TileLayout is based on the two-dimensional CSS grid and is able to display content in tiles. The tile itemy can be dragged around and rearranged by the user. In addition to reordering, the tiles can also be resized to change the way they span across the rows and columns. This demo shows an example dashboard usage of the Telerik UI TileLayout component.

The Blazor TileLayout control is part of Telerik UI for Blazor, a comprehensive, professional-grade UI library for building modern and feature-rich applications. The Telerik UI for Blazor collection provides 110++ UI components which meet all app requirements for data handling, performance, UX, design, accessibility, and more.

I've been looking high and low for any tool or trick in CA X11 to do something that Autocad can do really easily - it's called "set origin" and used for hatches (yes, I know CA doesn't use hatches). When providing drawings to contractors, it's nice to show them exactly how a tile pattern or flooring should be laid out. This often entails the starting point for a material - is it centered in a doorway or starts in a corner, etc. I can't find anyway to do this in CA. Am I missing something?

More information is very helpful when looking for pointers. Just as Eric said if you setup your signature so we know which version and what hardware you are using, and give more details it will get you the help you need.

In terms of the horizontal and vertical offset. This seems to be a fairly inaccurate way to move a tile pattern around once you've actually applied it. Whether in plan (like a tile floor) or elevations (tile showers), there must be a way to tell the system to start the pattern at a defined location (middle of a doorway or wall).

The problem with the offset method is that CA applies the texture and pattern in ways that don't seem to make sense. If I apply a 4x4 tile to a wall, it doesn't appear to start in the lower left corner or middle of the wall. That makes using the offset nearly impossible. Too much guessing.

I included an example of what I'm trying to do. The reason I mentioned Autocad is because I could just select the middle of the wall at the bottom and select "set as origin." So easy and effective. Hope this clarifies what I'm asking.

It works in Plan and Elevation the same way....... and works nicely with WMRs , though can be a bit laborious for highly detailed work as you need a unique material for each wall or area you need different offsets. ( Copy the material in the select material DBX and rename)

Very true, I often overlook the settings in the fill area as usually I am not using them for anything that needs to be that specific for hatch. If I am doing a layout for materials It is usually a wall elevation and just use the AMD button to adjust a backsplash or shower detail.

Of course I have a specialty estimating program that I work with for estimating flooring and tile work in particular as that is a portion of what my business does. So I generally if am doing specifics like that am also doing the take-off and use its layout details as I am already having to set that point and get the BOQ for the shower so can do their 3d rendering or wall elevations details. Not as nice as Chief's but still works quite well as I can layout the tile exactly as wanted and how the installer will need to install it.

Lastly (and to answer the main question posed), you'll have to shift the Fill or Pattern offsets. To do this I use CAD Detail From View. Just click on that tool and then take any measurements you need to obtain your offsets from that view. Really pretty easy. I typically use a line and just copy the line length to get a precise number. 2 additional quick tips though...

This document basically says we are to center and balance the area to be tiled, while both minimizing the amount of cuts and maximizing their size. Fundamentally these are the rules we follow, but in their definition and execution it can get quite subjective.

Hi!


I took a RenderDoc capture while using profiling mode and noticed that the tile layout is different from the example used in the oculus renderdoc guide. My capture is the one where all tiles are the same size, the other one is the example from meta.


I'm wondering if this means that Foveated Rendering is not enabled, is this normal?


I'm using Unreal Engine 5.1 with a Meta Quest 2 

Example used in meta renderdoc guideMy game





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In our little laundry nook, my priority with the tile layout is that the cornice tile runs flush with the bottom of the window ledge. We put up a level line and figured out that placement first. Next we laid out the pink pencil tile. Finally we laid out two rows of subway tile.

For tiling the floor, begin tiling with the end in mind. Where can you start tiling so that you tile yourself out of the room and still keep your beautiful lay out? That might mean putting down a few full sized pieces and then putting in a corner cut piece and working towards the door.

For tiling a backsplash, full pieces of tile can usually be laid right on top of the countertop since the cabinets and countertops are probably perfectly level. Just make sure to see if having a full piece on the bottom will make for a tiny cut piece on top. Putting up tile on a backsplash is a great beginner project!

When tiling a wall, a laser level is going to be invaluable. We use our laser ALL the time! For example, we use it for hanging matching art around a room, for putting up trim on the wall, for hanging drapes. It makes lots of jobs quicker to execute in a professional looking way. So I 100% recommend it!

First of all, the most important thing to do is to use the correct product. There is thin set that is designed to dry quickly which prevents tiles from sliding down after they are in place. Also, using a notched trowel when spreading the thinnest will create suction to hold the tiles in place during drying time.

Once the tiles were set and had dried for 24 hours, it was time to grout! I used a grout bag to apply grout to the spaces between tiles. I used a float to make sure the grout was in each crack and crevice.

Lastly, I washed it clean with water and a sponge. I loved using the grout bag because it saved a lot of time on the clean up! It only cost $5. I also liked that it kept the grout fresh longer and helped me not use as much grout.

For weeks, I looked like I was playing a very bizarre game of solitaire. I shuffled the tiles around, played with the tiles in different orders and patterns until I came up with the perfect color combo!

Installation was a bit nerve wracking since I was going to be out of town during it (yikes!). Even though I trust my contractors, there are so many things you can do to make sure that they have all the details. They want to be successful with the project as well, so in my experience, it helps to take some extra time with them. I explained in detail:

With all the bright tile throughout the space, I wanted to make sure there was enough white space and then black graphic notes. Black helps provide a great contrast with bright colors and keep it playful. I love it because it really lets the colors be as bold as they want to be whereas silver, brass, or copper fixtures can get lost.

The black, white, and wood choices in this bathroom really operate to cut the richness and saturation of the tile. They work as some much-needed white space in the room, bringing freshness and giving your eyes a place to rest.

I asked this question, which was subsequently closed for being off topic as I guess the moderator saw it as decorating advice. I would argue that my question falls under "Questions you would typically ask a home contractor", as I'm looking for best/common practice in the industry, and is related to tile installation. I wouldn't have a designer in to tackle this if I weren't DIYing, I would ask my contractor what they would do on the majority of their projects. Is there a way I can rephrase and resubmit to get the info I need without running into another closure?

It is/was clearly not a question about tiling practice (where there are some things having to do with layout that are, such as avoiding tiny slivers of tile on one wall, etc.) but about design appearance of two rooms if tiled in accord with common tiling practice, because they could be seen at the same time. 152ee80cbc

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