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I had to deal with that several times. When I heard the noise that indicated it was tightening up, I went over and adjusted it. Also noting this is a reel of filament that generally works okay on my Prusa, but was bought for my Ender 3 Pro (that just won't behave anyway).

Is this a "hazard" of 3D printing that normally needs to be watched out for? Or is it likely an ID-10-T error (i.e. user error) because I may have let it happen when the filament started to unspool and I was sloppy when I put it back on? And if that's the case, I've seen clips to hold the filament on the spool, but they all look like they stay in place. Is there a clip I can use on a spool that will slide along the edge of the spool as it turns and filament spools off it?

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Some people swear that they've received tangled spools from the suppliers, but if you think about how they are wound, that's close to impossible. Somebody in the factory would need to be very negligent to let that happen.

(I'm also realizing one of the 2-3 big issues about why my Ender has never printed well is poor design - the way the filament goes into the extruder on that, it has a rather sharp right angle. I was noticing that just now, before I got on the computer and saw this. So I'll need a guide there, too.)

No you don't need any of the extra stuff people mention relative to your machine, some folks just like to mod their machines, that's the fun in for them . you don't need any of that to print and print well.

It's a personal preference, you will meet people that swear, it's the way to go. I would focus on learning the software, and the specifics of your machine, as well as the basics of printing with your filament choices.

Adding a filament guide is imho not a mod but a means of fixing the fact that there are hundreds of different spool qualities out there. Look at the technical issue: printing large items covering much of the build plate may result in a transit of the extruder from, say, front left to rear right when changing to the next layer. This results in a very long piece of filament having been pulled from the spool to print left front to being pushed back when the extruder moves rear right. The filament then, particularly on full spools, may jump off the spool or may after some time, sneak itself under the next, yet not unwound but already loose loop of filament on the spool. When the extruder then suddenly travels a longer distance again, the loop is tightened again, catching its "predecessor", re-wound filament underneath. Do this a couple of times and you have a perfect knot of doom. Filament wanders on the spool left and right in these circumstances.

The guide results in the filament being pushed back not on the spool but into a curve between extruder and guide, usually avoiding the filament to be pushed fully back to the spool. The dust filters I have never made use of, a simple guide attached to the i3 upper frame does it for me. Those who print smaller items on a limited part of the plate might never encounter the.issue.

100% this. This guy gets it. Even with a perfect spool, with large prints on a full spool, filament can jump off the spool sides and cause a tangle. A centered filament guide corrects this. Ask me how I know. Its 's a no-brainer imo.

Regarding your question on the dust filters.. yes you need to fill them with a piece of a cut-up sponge, the cheap yellow sponges work great one sponge will probably last you a lifetime you just cut little pieces of it off to fit inside of the dust filter. You'll be surprised how much gets pulled off the filament each spool. It also has the added benefit of holding the filament for, kind of like a clamp so it doesn't back out past the filament guide when you remove filament from the extruder to change colors or do maintenance/whatever.

My Prusa detected a crash and the print was deformed because the filament spool was stuck 12 hours into a 16 hours print job. Is that any part or accessary to prevent the spool from tangled and stuck?

I started a new spool of Overture PETG the other night where it seems like the filament went onto the spool twisted during the manufacturing process. I have a spoolholder mounted to the side of my Bear feeding it through a reverse bowden, and this particular spool keeps having the filament come off and get tangled around the spool holder. It's one of the ball bearing type holders, and when I mounted it I found right away there was actually too little friction, and the spool tended to overrun the filament. I machined a couple plain bushings out of delrin to replace the bearings, which helped a lot. But it could still use to have a little less friction with some spools, such as the current one. Hopefully it will get better as I use up some of the filament.

Yeah it wouldn't need to be complicated. I just read my post again and see that I messed up; what it should have said is that it could still sometimes use to have MORE friction, but obviously you knew what I meant. Stupid edit time limit. The spoolholder design in the batch of Voron parts I am printing uses a couple lengths of PTFE tube from the looks of it. At some point it might be worth going into the stepfile and lengthening it so I can use it on the Bear and still clear the power supply case I used, which has the plug and the switch on the side.

Issue seems to be when printing, the spool turns and loosens a few strands all in one go - the spool doesn't turn as filament is pulled from it - its more in bits as the plastic is pulled, which looses a few strands at a time. Hence I'm now careful when unloading filament to ensure I keep hold of the unloaded end and temporarily 'hook' it under the frame of the printer, in the direction of it's natural curve. I only have prusa filaments and some of them come with a section where you can insert the filament end into a slot on the inner side often spool, which is a good solution. Others have holes to feed the filament end through, which I do not like using - it creates a kink in the filament, or sometimes the filament can snap off if you haven't pulled enough through and you're back to square one - so for these spools I just use a bit of masking tape to tape the end to the spool. I cut the end into an angle before feeding into the extruder anyways, so there is no risk of any tape adhesive entering the printer.....

I have had the exact same issue with two spools and couldn't understand why it happened until I read this post. That, once being ready with a spool, the end has to be firmly attached (stretched) onto the spool's outer wheel, or it may start free spinning and then we can have entanglement like this. Lesson learned.

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I am hoping the issue would have solved by now. Nonetheless, there might be another way to do it.

You can monitor the joints in the thread and extracting Wrist3 from it plus monitoring it. Now, if you know the value of Wrist 3 just about when it starts to get tangled you can have a conditional statement in the thread that if the Wrist 3 value is reached to the tangle limit (assuming you know that) follow waypoint to untangle it. It might be a bit tedious to do but once the job stays same it should work alright.

The median assessed value of the tangled properties ($88,800) is lower than the citywide median of $134,300 not because of the tangled titles but because property values in the neighborhoods where the residences are located are lower than those in other areas of the city. In fact, the values of properties with tangled titles are only 1% lower, on average, than those of other properties on the same block.5

Across the city, 32% of tangled properties are delinquent in paying their real estate taxes, compared with 9% of residential properties citywide. About 39% of tax-delinquent tangled title homes are in payment agreements with the city, a rate of participation higher than the average of 34% among all delinquent residential properties.6

Sources: Pew analysis of data from the Philadelphia Office of Property Assessment and the Philadelphia Department of Revenue; U.S. Census Bureau, American Community Survey, five-year estimates, 2015-19

Although publicly available data does not include the characteristics of the households living in homes with tangled titles, the census tracts with higher percentages of tangled titles have lower household incomes and higher poverty rates than tracts with lower percentages of tangled titles. (See Table 2.) Among the other factors that help explain the prevalence of tangled titles in these areas are the inaccessibility of legal services and low property values, sometimes compounded by liens, that limit the financial benefit of clearing the title.

For the group with the smallest percentage of tangled titles, shown in pale yellow in Figure 2, the median household income is relatively high, the poverty rate is relatively low, and home values are $294 per square foot. Nearly two-thirds of these tracts are in Center City. 152ee80cbc

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