HISTORY
The direct origin of Surat Zari can be traced back to the 14th century AD. Zari gained royal patronage during the Mughal era. Surat became the hub of Zari, gold threads, and textile exports. Due to both of the above factors, people of various faith and races began settling here and laid foundations of an industrial/ commercial city.
Fabric & Metal
Zari is intricate metallic weaving (usually gold, silver, copper) done on cotton or silk textiles which gives it a rich look. Along with traditional Zari Craft which is done using gold or other pure metals such as copper or silver, imitation Zari work (done using plastics) is also on the rise nowadays.
Surat, located in southern Gujarat, is one of the largest commercial hubs in the State. Surat was a prosperous port on the west coast and a famous commercial and industrial centre during the Mughal period. The zari industry must have developed there, particularly due to its easy accessibility from Ahmedabad and Ahmednagar. About 1,25,000–1,50,000 people are directly involved in the Surat zari industry, out of which about 70% are women who operate machines at home. Surat holds the monopoly of making 80% of the country’s requirement for metal thread, whether real or artificial. The leading zari-producing areas in Surat are Gollwar, Waadifalia, Gopipur, Navapur, and Sachiin.
The word ‘zari’ stems from ‘zar’, meaning gold in Persian. The craft of incorporating gold wires into textiles has a rich history and is considered one of the oldest existing crafts in India. The exact origin of zari is difficult to trace, although there is a strong belief that clothes were adorned with pure gold wire in ancient times, creating what was known as ‘cloth of gold’. Ancient epics such as the Mahabharata, Ramayana, Vedas, and Puranas make references to the use of gold fabrics. The fire god Agni was believed to have created gold, and it was also associated with the sun. This association made gold valuable and infused it with purifying properties for the soul. Hindu deities like Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth, were also associated with gold. Indian gold cloth held religious importance and was highly regarded in other parts of the world. People would wear garments adorned with golden ornamentation for religious ceremonies as a symbol of purity.
The art of drawing fine zari wires and intricately weaving them into brocades is believed to have been brought to India by Persian migrants. The craft flourished under the patronage of Mughal rulers, particularly Emperor Akbar. Historical accounts mention that the Mughal rulers had hundreds of manufacturers of golden textiles, creating exquisite brocades for the royal court and as gifts for nobles.
At present, India has two main zari-producing centres, i.e., Surat and Banaras, which cater to the domestic and international markets. Despite its historical significance, the zari industry in Surat has faced setbacks and a slowdown in production volumes and annual turnover over the past decade. The main reason for this decline is linked to the ongoing recession in the textile industry. Additionally, the industry faces intrinsic problems such as the use of hazardous substances like potassium cyanide and sulfuric acid, which pose health risks to workers. The high consumption of electricity in the manufacturing process also poses danger to the residential areas where the units are located. Furthermore, the workers often endure unacceptable working conditions and receive low wages.
To revive and uplift the zari industry, various efforts are being made. The Surat zari craft was awarded Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2010 to protect it from duplication by manufacturers in other regions. Another step taken by zari manufacturers is the development of a ‘zari park’ as part of an upcoming land project in Surat. The zari park will encompass approximately twelve hundred manufacturing units along with a research and development centre. It will also feature a meeting and exhibition hall to facilitate interaction between buyers and sellers. This centralized approach aims to shift the organizational structure of the industry and create a hub for zari production.
In conclusion, the art of zari in India has a long and storied history. While facing challenges in recent times, steps are being taken to revive and modernize the zari industry. Through recognition, improvement of working conditions, quality control, technology upgrades, artisan training, and investment, the zari craft in Surat aims to regain its former glory and continue to be a symbol of India's rich cultural heritage.
The main raw materials required for the manufacturing of real and imitation zari yarns include gold, silver, and copper metals. Cotton, silk, and polyester yarns are used as the core. The traditional method was a laborious one where all the steps were carried out by hand. However, over the last seventy years, the process has become mechanized and automated to a great extent. The manufacturing process for real zari and imitation zari is similar, with the only difference being the raw material. In the case of real zari, pure silver is used, whereas in imitation zari, copper is the main component.
The manufacturing process is completely mechanized. The first step involves sourcing copper wire bundles from the market. Due to exposure to the atmosphere, the copper gets oxidized and forms an oxidation layer on its surface. Before converting it into zari, the copper needs to be cleaned. This is done using dilute sulphuric acid. The process is called an acid wash. The copper wire bundles are washed in a bath of dilute sulphuric acid (3-5%) and rinsed with water. The bundles are thoroughly rinsed to remove any traces of acid. The next step is the drawing of copper wires. It is done using die casts of different diameters. These are arranged in decreasing order of diameter. As the copper wire passes through each casting successively, it becomes finer. Once the fineness of copper wire is eighty microns, it is electroplated with silver. A silver solution is prepared using cyanide, and the copper wire is passed through this solution. The silver electroplating is controlled using rectifiers. The universal law of electroplating silver states that passing a current of one ampere for one hour results in four grammes of silver coating. This law is used to calculate and control the amount of silver transferred to copper. This helps with the cost of the final product. After coating the wire with silver, it is further drawn to reduce its diameter to sixty microns. After reaching the desired fineness, the wire is flattened and wound onto small spools. The flattened wire is then wound on a core yarn, which could be cotton, silk, polyester, or nylon.