Food Requirements

Rat's health and wellness start with the food that they eat. Lab block should make up about 90% of a rat’s diet. My rats are raised on Kalmbach 18% Rodent Diet, and do very well on this. It can be bought in large 25-50 pound bags, which are very affordable. The other options that are well reviewed and used often are Mazuri or Oxbow Essentials. I would highly suggest staying away from any other food brands without doing extensive research. 

Treats

Rats LOVE treats. A simple stem of broccoli can make a rat’s whole day. Rats can eat many foods, so this is not a comprehensive list by any means, but here are some examples of treats my rats enjoy:

• Fresh fruits and vegetables such as:

  • Apple

  • Pears

  • Melons (no seeds)

  • Strawberries

  • Banana

  • Thawed Peas

  • Broccoli 

• Treats that my rats love:

  • Gerber Grain & Grow Puffs

  • Oatmeal

  • Regular cheerios

  • Cooked pasta

  • Hard boiled egg (you can leave shell on, just crack the shell)

  • Cooked chicken/turkey (you can give them larger bones, as there is not a concern with splintering as with dogs)

  • Freeze dried fruits

Bad Food and Treats

Not all food options are ideal or even healthy for rats. What may be eaten by a hamster or guinea pig may kill a rat. Read all ingredients on packages of food/treats. Even if there is a picture of a rat on the package, or the treat says that it is for rodents,  that does not mean that it is healthy or safe for them to consume. Rats also can not vomit, so if something toxic or non-digestible is eaten, they will not be able to puke it back up. This is not an exhaustive list, however, all of these foods should be avoided:

• Alfalfa and other hays (including toys made of alfalfa)

• Apple Seeds

• Avocado skin

• Artichokes (raw)

• Beans and corn (dried)

• Beet tops

• Blue Cheese

• Brussels sprouts (raw)

• Carbonated beverages (rats cannot burp and these can cause digestive issues)

• Caffeinated beverages

• Candy

• Green bananas (yellow are okay)

• Green potato skins/eyes

• Hamster food

• Licorice

• Mango

• Moldy foods

• Milk chocolate (dark chocolate above 80% is okay)

• Onions (raw)

• Oranges and other citruses (can cause kidney problems in males)

• Peanuts

• Poppy seeds

• Red Cabbage (raw)

• Rhubarb

• Spinach (small amounts okay)

• Sweet feed 

• Sweet potato (raw)

• Tofu (raw bulk)

• Wild insects (risk of diseases, feeder insects okay)

Cage Requirements

The rule of thumb for all rat cages is that each rat needs 2 square feet of floor space. Many cages that are on the market for rodents are inadequate, and some are actually inhumane. Most rats will spend the majority of their time in their cage, so we must make sure that they have enough space that is clean and enriching to thrive. Here are some general rules on rat cages:

• Rats should get approximately 2 square feet of floor space each.

• Wire Spacing cannot be more than ½ inch or they can possibly squeeze out. If their head can fit between the bars, they will wiggle until the rest of them does as well!

• Rats require excellent ventilation, as they are prone to respiratory infections. 

• They should not be housed in tanks, hamster cages, reptile cages, or plastic bins (bin cages that meet ventilation requirements are okay).

• Rats need flat surfaces to run on. No wire bottom cages.

Our rats are all housed in Critter Nation cages with mixing pans from Lowe's in the base. Pregnant/nursing does are housed in Prevue 528 Universal Small Animal Homes. I use a combination of paper bedding and kiln dried pine  in my cages.

Bedding

Rat cages should always use absorbent bedding. Rats love to dig and bedding materials will absorb ammonia from their pee. Bedding should always be dust and sent free, as rats have very delicate respiratory systems. 

Examples of proper bedding include:

• kiln-dried, dust-free pine or aspen shavings

• Paper shreds (mixed with wood preferably)

Food and Water Containers

Rats should always have more than one water bottle in their cage. Water should be replaced and monitored daily. 

Rats like to run, dig, climb, sniff, chew, hide, and sleep. They are busy little creatures that need adequate amounts of "stuff" to keep them busy. We like to have a hammock, hide, and toy for each rat, but at minimum, at least 2 of each per group of 3 or more. You can never go wrong with more toys, hammocks, hides, or enrichment. 

Hammocks

Hammocks can be bought, or made from scrap fleece and t-shirts. We like to buy the cheap fleece blankets from Walmart and cut them up into hammock-size pieces, then add clips to hang them from the roof of their cages. Hammocks should be washed at least once a week, so having more than one set is ideal.

Hides

Rats love to find a nice, dark nook to curl up in for a nap. We recommend having several hides in your cage. We like to use plastic igloos, large sputniks, and paper boxes. Plastic and ceramic hides should be washed once a week, and paper boxes should be replaced as they get gross.

Toys and Enrichment

Rats are very intelligent creatures, and can readily learn tricks. They are also great at solving puzzles, especially with a food reward. Foraging toys are a great option for rats to exercise their brain! Many foraging toys meant for birds are great for rats as well. There are also simple foraging items you can make, such as rolls of toilet paper filled with treats (fold down each end). Other toys such as willow and apple sticks are great for rats that like to chew. Some rats love the jingly cat balls as well!

Other Cage Enrichment

A cluttered cage makes for happy rats! In general, the more you can fit into the cage, the more engaged your rats will be! Our rats love the wooden bridges that clip to the cage, and will run across them. They also like to use scarf holders and foldable wine racks as climbing tools. Lava ledges are great for them to chew on and file their nails with. Even empty tissue boxes, toilet paper rolls, and boxes of old newspaper will make them as happy as can be. 

Rats can be pretty gross at times. It is best to do a weekly surface clean, and a deep clean at the end of each month. We typically use vinegar and soapy water to do all of our weekly cleanings, and use bleach on our hard, nonporous surfaces once a month. All items that come into contact with bleach or vinegar should be rinsed well before given back to the rats. 

Pet owners, regardless of the pet they have, should always have a first aid box with crucial supplies. Of course, in an emergency, please bring your rat to the vet as soon as possible. 

Supplies to always have in stock:

• Kitchen scale (measuring in grams)

• 1 mL syringes

• Doxycycline (antibiotic)

• Baytril/Enrofloxacin (antibiotic)

• Amoxicillin (antibiotic)

• Revolution (for mites, lice, fleas, ticks, and internal parasites)

We recommend using ratguide.com to get proper dosing on any antibiotics. You can find their site here.

This is not information meant for diagnosis of your rat. If you are in a medical emergency, you should always contact your vet or an emergency vet office for help. This information is to help you in non-life-threatening situations. 

Healthy rats should have clear eyes, a clear nose, clean ears, no discharge, clean skin, and healthy hair (if they have it). They should have a well-proportioned body. Their breathing should be clear and you should not hear any whistling or whining when you hold them up to your ear. Their stool should be solid and slightly moist when first deposited. 

Here are some common issues that we see:

Porphyrin

If it looks like your rat is bleeding out of their nose and/or eyes, it is probably porphyrin. This is a reddish mucus that is produced when a rat's eyes or nose becomes irritated. This usually clears up after about 48 hours. If it doesn't,  this can indicate a viral or bacterial infection, and your rat should be seen by a vet. Garlic, turmeric, and dark chocolate can all help with the infection. Some reports show that oil of oregano can help as well. 

URI

Upper respiratory infections are hard to deal with, and can become reoccurring. Your rat will be struggling to breathe, and when you listen to them, you will hear a noise in their chest like crackling, popping, or wheezing. If they are gasping for breath, they need to be seen by a vet immediately. Garlic, turmeric, and dark chocolate can all help with these symptoms. Most vets will prescribe Amoxicillin based on their weight via syringe. 

Injury

Lacerations and cuts- small cuts can be tended to by washing them out with warm water and soap, then covering with a topical disinfectant. Deep lacerations can be easily infected, and should be seen by a vet.

Degloving- degloving is when the skin on a rat's tail slips off, exposing the muscle, bone, and nerve underneath. These are incredibly painful and can cause permanent issues. This must be seen by a vet. 

Broken bones- broken limbs must be seen by a vet, however your vet will not likely be able to care for most broken toes. 

Rats make excellent pets! They naturally bond with you and your children, especially if held and cared for every day! They can be litter box trained, taught tricks, and will literally beg you for attention. They are more affectionate than any dog/cat we have ever owned, and are surprisingly intelligent! We lovingly refer to them as "pocket puppies" for good reason.

We love both male and female rats so much! Every rat has a unique personality, so this will always come down to individuals. In general, here are their differences:

Male rats are generally more docile and are easier to hold/handle. They are generally more cuddly and prefer to lounge around their cage and on you. They are physically much larger than females, and carry more fat on them. They will eat and poop more than females. They have a little more musky kind of smell to them. They generally have less health risks and are not prone to most cancers.

Female rats are very playful and love to explore. They generally do not like to cuddle when out of their cage, preferring to run about and investigate. They like to have things to keep them busy, and can be more destructive and prone to chewing on everything. They are generally much smaller than males, and more slender. They typically eat and poop less than males, and tend not to be as musky. Females are prone to have mammary tumors, and some studies show up to 50% of female rats may develop a tumor. 

Most rat bites are accidents that can be prevented. We have worked with rats and owned our own pet rats for many years, and in that time only one rat has bitten hard enough to draw blood. Please keep in mind that rodents have a natural urge to chew, and need to be able to chew on things to keep their teeth short and healthy. Rats also cannot see very well, and explore the world with their mouths. They may nibble on your fingernails out of curiosity. If you stick food between the cage bars, you may train your rat to bite anything coming into the cage. We suggest that you do not stick treats into the cage, but instead open up the cage door and feed them that way. We also suggest you wash your hands before handling your rats, so that you do not smell like a yummy treat. Rats rarely bite out of aggression.

Both male and female rats may leave little dribbles of pee around their enclosure and even on you! However, not every rat will do this, and it is a very small amount (like tiny droplets). This is to communicate with other rats, and to help them find their way back to the places they feel comfortable. You should take this as a sign that your rat loves you!