Monday, December 8, 2025

Meet the flock of Border Leicester sheep at the center of this journey! 

It all started with an email: Inquiry About Fleece Availability

... I’m interested in purchasing a whole fleece and was hoping you could share your current pricing, as well as the breeds or specific sheep available...

After a few email exchanges with Siri -- shepherd and shearer at Yankee Rock Farm in Vermont (image above) -- 7.5 lbs of fleece arrived at my door in Bklyn, NY!

Friday, December 19, 2025

The box was here when I got home today! Thank you Siri and Colin for taking such great care of your sheep — the fleece smells amazing. 

I purchased the 2 smallest fleeces available. 

• 4 lbs white

• 3.5 lbs earthy tones (image above)

The math journey takes speed. How many grams of fiber is this? 

Saturday, December 20, 2025

First go at Scouring Raw Wool (Getting the Dirt & Grease Out)

In addition to very hot water (at least 140°F), removing the grease (lanolin used in skincare products such as lip balm) requires some kind of soap or detergent. 

I went with Orvus Paste — a hypoallergenic,  phosphate and dye free, biodegradable cleaner. It's used to wash everything from horses to antique quilts. 

After: Three washes was too much. My wool no longer smells like sheep! 

Image: On the right, pot with hot wash water and loose fleece. On the left, empty pot with colander to hold fleece. 

Tuesday, December 23, 2025

Clean Wool: Percentage Yield

On 12/20, I washed 50 g white fleece. This resulted in 35 g scoured wool. Below, I figured out my yield. 

Ratio (scoured : raw) = 35 : 50
Simplified ratio = 7 : 10
Fraction = 7/10
Decimal = 0.7
Percentage yield = 70%

Since then, I've learned that “Border Leicester fleece often yields 70% wool after scouring, one of the highest of all.” My math is mathing!

Image: Washed wool (white & earthy tones)

Wednesday, December 24, 2025

Second go: How much fleece do I need to wash?

I weighed out 200 g of raw wool, which should yield 78–109 g of spinnable fiber. I’m accounting for a 30% loss in weight during washing and an additional 22-44% loss to waste during combing. I have plans for that waste!

• Loss in weight:
  200 g × 70% = 200 × 0.7 = 140 g

• Loss to waste:
  22% = 140 g × 0.22 = 30.8 g
  140 − 30.8 = 109.2 g
  44% = 140 g × 0.44 = 61.6 g
  140 − 61.6 = 78.4 g 

Image: 200 g of raw wool on scale

Thursday, December 25, 2025

Raw Wool After 24-Hour Soak

Pre-soaking acts as a first wash. If you compare the wool before (12/24) and after (12/25), you can see the fibers have opened up and the curls have stretched out. The soak releases dirt and sweat salts, allowing them to wash out more easily. Saturated fiber also allows the detergent to reach the wool more evenly during scouring. 

Image: Raw wool after a 24-hour soak

December 25

Netting

On my first go, I washed the fleece loose. This time, I placed my soaked wool in a mesh laundry bag to minimize handling and squeezing of the fiber. Felting happens when wet wool is agitated, particularly in hot water, so gentle handling is key to preventing the fibers from locking together.

The netting made it much easier to lift and move the wool from one pot to another through a total of two washes and four rinses.

Image: Wet fleece in a mesh laundry bag

December 25

Wool Washing

I began by mixing in 2 Tbsp of Orvus Paste in hot water in an 8-quart stainless steel pot and placed it over low heat. Once small bubbles began to form at the bottom — around 140-160°F — I gently lowered in the wet wool. I let it sit on low heat for 15 minutes without agitation, gently turning the bag halfway through.

Meanwhile, I prepared a second 8-quart pot with rinse water at the same temperature. I lifted the net from the wash pot, let it to drip for a minute, and transferred it to the rinse pot to soak for 15 minutes.

For the second wash, I added 1 Tbsp of Orvus Paste and repeated the washing process, followed by three 15-minute rinses. 

Image: Wool washing over low heat

December 25

Drying the Wool

After the final rinse, I placed the wool in a colander to cool. Once it was cool enough to touch, I removed it from the laundry bag to continue dripping  and cooling. Next, working in four sections, I spun the wool dry using a large salad spinner. Finally, I placed the wool to dry over an elevated mesh door screen that isn't used during the winter. 

To Do: Check the pH level of my wash water.

Image: Washed fleece drying on a mesh screen

Friday, December 26, 2025

Combing: Reflecting on the Process

My goal through this sheep to shawl journey is to deepen my connection to an ecosystem that can sometimes elude us as city dwellers. That ecosystem includes not only the sheep themselves, but the rivers, farmers, dye plants, shearers, wood carvers, tool builders, story tellers, and teachers who sustain textile traditions and, in turn, sustain us.

Image: On the left, my first batch of combed wool (2 g). On the right, earthy tones wool waiting to be combed. 

Saturday, December 27, 2025

Dizzing: Drawing Out the Fiber

A diz is a small tool for drawing out and aligning wool fibers for spinning. A button, needle gauge, or any item with a smooth hole can be used to draw out the fiber from your wool combs. Dizzing creates a smooth and consistent strand, called a sliver, in preparation for spinning.

Image: Incense stick holder (diz) drawing out combed Border Leicester wool.

Sunday, December 28, 2025

Spinning From My Wool Stash: This is Not Border Leicester Fleece!

I dug into my old wool stash this weekend to focus on my spinning skills. For this project, I used dyed comb top purchased at the Maryland Sheep & Wool Festival this past spring.

Update: So far, I have 11 g of washed and combed Border Leicester wool.

Image: Handspun commercial comb top on a Turkish spindle.

Monday, December 29, 2025

Measuring the Thickness of Handspun Yarn 

When you buy yarn, the label lists its weight and recommended needle or hook size. Now that I am spinning my own yarn, I’ll be using the Wraps Per Inch (WPI) Method to determine this information.

After measuring several sections, my counts ranged from 9 to 11 WPI, classifying it as a US size 4 (Medium) or worsted weight yarn.

WPI is a helpful guide, but ultimately your needle size depends on your desired gauge and style. For example, as a loose knitter, I often use size 6 needles instead of the recommended size 7–9 when working with worsted weight yarn. As you get to know your tension (how tight or loose you knit) you become more confident selecting the tools that work best for you.

Image: Measuring the WPI of handspun yarn (US size 4, worsted weight)

Tuesday, December 30, 2025

Wash Water: Natural Fertilizer and Insecticide 

The wool bits and lanolin in the wash water act as a slow-release fertilizer and help retain soil moisture in your garden. In addition, Orvus Paste (detergent used) is safe for plants when properly diluted, so we will be using it as a natural insecticide spray in our garden this spring.

Note: Do your own research before using. Not recommended for succulents and other plants.

Image: Wash water cooling off. Boiling water would harm beneficial soil organisms like mycorrhizae — fungi that help plants absorb nutrients, improve water absorption, and support root growth.

Wednesday, December 31, 2025

Spinning Border Leicester Fleece

I closed out 2025 hand spinning my combed Border Leicester fleece. I am beginning to understand the connection between drafting — pulling the fiber as I let the twist in — and the resulting thickness and texture of the yarn. The more you draft or pull, the thinner the yarn. I am aiming for an 11-12 WPI, which falls between a size 3 and 4 yarn. 

Update: I am pre-soaking two batches of white fleece, each 8 oz (230 g), in 8-quart pots. This should yield two 100 g worsted weight skeins of yarn.

Image: Spinning hand washed and combed Border Leicester wool on a Turkish spindle.

December 31

First Ball of Border Leicester Yarn

It's a little thicker than expected. Time to measure Wraps Per Inch (WPI).

 Image: Handspun Border Leicester wool on a Turkish spindle.

December 31

Yarn too thick? Respin it!

With an average of 9 WPI, this yarn falls into the lighter end of Bulky. Too thick for a shawl, I gave it a try as a potholder. After knitting just one row, I committed to unspinning and respinning it to a lighter weight.

Image: Measuring the WPI of handspun Border Leicester yarn (US size 5, bulky)

Thursday, January 1, 2026

Bulky Turned DK Weight Yarn

There are a lot of opinions on what to do with handspun yarn you're unhappy with. Because this was not a first-time project, and I had already tried (unsuccessfully) to knit with it, the decision to untwist the yarn, in order to draft the fiber out further, and respin it, felt like a great way to welcome in the new year. 

A yarn with a WPI of 12–13 is considered a DK weight (size 3) or a light worsted weight yarn.

Image: Measuring the WPI of handspun Border Leicester yarn (US size 3, DK)

Friday, January 2, 2026

Wool Scouring Guide

After using too much detergent on my first go, I experimented with a variation of the 5% scouring method. This method bases the amount of detergent used on a percentage of the raw wool's weight. 

Materials Used: 

•  226 g (8 oz) raw Border Leicester fleece (dry weight)
•  5 tsps Orvus Paste

•  stove and water

•  two 8-quart stainless steel pots (helpful, but only one is necessary)
•  12X14 inch mesh laundry bag
•  7.43-quart salad spinner

•  colander (helpful, but not necessary)  
•  mesh window screen (supported with a small box)

Step 1: I pre-soaked 226 g of fleece in cool water for 24 hours in an 8-quart pot. This process opens up the fleece, releases dirt, and cuts down on hot water baths.

Step 2: The following day, I drained the dirty water and placed the loose wool in a small laundry bag in preparation for scouring. 

Step 3: Based on the weight of my wool, the 5% scouring method calls for ¾ Tbsp of detergent, which I rounded up to 1 Tbsp. 

I dissolved 1 Tbsp of Orvus Paste in an 8-quart pot of hot tap water and placed it over low heat. Once small bubbles appeared, indicating I had reached 140°F, I lowered the wool into its first bath and set the timer for 15 minutes. For Steps 3-6, I let the wool sit without agitation for 15-20 minutes, gently submerging or turning the bag over once or twice.

Step 4: Skipping a rinse between baths, I lifted the wool and let it drip for 30–60 seconds before transferring it to its second 140°F bath. Seeking to maintain a small amount of lanolin, I reduced the detergent in this bath to 3%, or 1.4 tsp, which I rounded up to 2 tsp.

Steps 5 & 6: I followed with two rinses, also at 140°F. By the final rinse, the water was no longer cloudy, indicating that most of the lanolin had been removed.

Step 7: I removed the wool from the laundry bag and let it cool in a colander. To avoid overloading the salad spinner, I spun the wool dry in three separate rounds.

Step 8: I spread the fleece in a thin layer on a window screen in a well-ventilated room. Over a two-day period, I gently fluffed the fibers every 12 hours to ensure even drying.

Step 9: I placed the clean wool in a cotton pillowcase and stored it in a plastic bin. I plan to make lavender sachets or add cedar blocks to help deter moths.

Image: 226 g (8oz) Border Leicester fleece (raw, dry weight) on a scale.

Saturday, January 3, 2026

From Two-Ply Back to Single-Ply Yarn

Yesterday was my first day spinning on the A train.  I wasn't sure I could do so comfortably, but it worked surprisingly well. Later in the day, Nefer at Flow Through Brooklyn taught me how to turn my single-plies into two-play yarn!

Today, after knitting a potholder and crocheting a bowl with this small quantity of yarn (neither project interesting enough to keep), I decided to unply the yarn and continue exploring each fleece on its own. To unply, I gently pulled the strands apart, allowing the yarn untwist naturally, loosening any tangles with a knitting needle as needed, and knitting each ply separately as I went.

Image: Two-ply, Border Leicester yarn shown at the bottom; single-ply knitted swatches above. 

Sunday, January 4, 2026

Single-Ply Basket Weave Textile

This is a very exciting moment for me! I finally knit a keeper using the yarn I unplied on Jan 3rd. The clean lines of the basket weave stitch highlight subtle variations in the color, weight, and texture of each yarn. 

For now, I am going to keep this piece unfinished as a reminder of the journey I’m on. 

Image: Basket weave textile using hand-washed and spun, undyed, single-ply, DK weight, Border Leicester yarn (Dimensions: 9 x 4 in) 

Monday, January 5, 2026

Turning Waste Into Nesting Material for Birds

While we share our backyard with a variety of wild birds, I have a special relationship with mourning doves — having raised (and released) one that fell out of a tree in 2021. Because of this, I can't wait until February, when they might start using my waste to build their nests. 

Recommended: Undyed, loose wool is a valuable material wild birds use to line their nests. Wool provides excellent insulation, cushions eggs, protects chicks from cold weather, and helps repel water.

Not safe: I will save my waste from commercially dyed wool for felting projects, as bright colors can attract predators and the dyes could be toxic. Yarn is also unsafe, as long strips can tangle around a bird’s body.

Image: Washed Border Leicester wool in a suet cage, hanging from a tree branch in the backyard.

Tuesday, January 6, 2026

Carding Wool on a Drum Carder

This is my first time preparing wool for spinning using a drum carder. I began by combing the tips of individual locks with a flick carder, opening the fibers and removing any remaining vegetable matter (VM). Called flicking the wool, this step helps clean and loosen the fiber before going on the drum carder.

I’m curious to see the difference between spinning and knitting with combed (12/26) versus drum-carded wool. Combed wool produces strong, dense yarn with aligned fibers, known as worsted yarn, while carded wool produces a fluffy, airy yarn with jumbled fibers, known as woolen yarn.

Image: Washed Border Leicester wool on drum carder.

Wednesday, January 7, 2026

Importance of Picking the Wool

Although I did some flicking before passing my wool through the drum carder, I I did not pick every lock open. As a result, some stray locks remained intact after carding.

Because of this, I ran the fiber through the carder a second time. This time, I carefully flicked each lock and removed second cuts (short bits of fiber left behind from shearing) which create pills in finished yarn.

Image: On the right, locks in my batt after first pass through the drum carder.

Thursday, January 8, 2026

Second Pass on the Drum Carder

Here is my batt after a second pass through the drum carder, which introduced more air and separation, and better alignment, resulting in a fluffier, smoother batt. 

A batt is a flat sheet of carded fiber produced by hand or drum carding.

Image: Border Leicester wool batt after a second pass through the drum carder. 

Friday, January 9, 2026

Spinning Woolen Yarn

I closed out 2025 spinning worsted (combed) yarn. I am now spinning woolen (carded) yarn, tearing long, narrow strips from my batt and drafting as I spin. 

This is working for now, but in the coming days I plan to create a long strip of roving (pre-drafted fiber drawn out using a diz) to compare methods.

Image: Woolen Border Leicester yarn on a Turkish spindle.

Saturday, January 10, 2026

55% Yield: Raw to Carded Wool

I weighed out 200 g of raw wool on 12/24, which yielded two batts, weighing 110 g in total. There was a 30% loss in weight during washing and an additional 21% loss during carding.

Raw → carded yield: (110 ÷ 200) × 100 = 55%

With Border Leicester fleece, the expected yield from raw to carded wool is 55–75%. My yield was on the lower side because I set aside a good amount of the shorter fiber for bird nests!

Looking Ahead: I expect 2.2 lb (≈1,000 g) of carded wool from my 4 lb white fleece. Because my 3.5 lb earthy tones fleece has longer staples (locks of wool), it may yield a higher percentage of spinnable wool.

Image: Two batts of Border Leicester wool, weighing 110 g in total.

Mon - Thur,  Jan 11 - 15

Pause for Birthday Project

I finished a neckwarmer and arm warmers in time for my nephew's birthday.  I was excited to have less than 12"  of waste from 100 g of superwash merino yarn. There is a palpable difference between home- and commercially processed superwash wool. I chose this yarn because of its softness, ease of care, and color.

Image: Knit, 2X2 ribbed neckwarmer and arm warmers, weight 100 g.

Friday, January 16, 2026

Before Flicking

I spent several hours flick carding dirt and VM out of the wool I washed on January 2. The locks ranged from wavy to curly and measured 2–5 inches in length.

Image: Unflicked BL wool lock, wavy, 4-5" long

January 16

After Flicking

Warning: Be careful flicking short locks on a tabletop. I've since learned that fibers selected for flicking should be at least 4 inches long. After scraping the back side of my finger from repeated contact with the table, I plan to flick on my lap next time.

Image: Flicked BL wool lock, wavy

Saturday, January 17, 2026

Higher Lanolin Content and Yield

This 200 g batch of wool yielded 130 g after flicking. The high yield is due to an increased lanolin content and little waste during flicking.

Raw → flicked yield = (130 ÷ 200) × 100 = 65%

Benefits of Lanolin: The wool’s lanolin provides natural waterproofing, increased softness, durability, antibacterial properties, and odor resistance.

Image: 130 g of flicked BL wool with high lanolin content.

January 17

Fluffy Cloud on Drum Carder

Because I flicked locks of varying curl types and lengths, I fluffed and blended the wool by hand before passing it through the drum carder. This fiber needed only one pass through the carder.

Image: Fluffed BL wool prior to drum carding.

Sunday, January 18, 2026

Dizzing Off the  Drum Carder

Of all the dizzing techniques I've tried, dizzing directly off the drum carder is by far the most enjoyable and  straightforward. Dizzing produced a smooth, buttery (lanolin rich) strip of roving. 

Image: Dizzing BL wool off the drum carder.