PLANTING
PLANTING
Timing: The best time to establish short-rotation forestry stands in North Carolina is late winter for containerized and bare root seedlings and early spring for cuttings (Figure 18). The best planting conditions include cool days (air temperature: 40 to 70F) with high relative humidity (>50%) and moist soil. Avoid planting on very hot or cold days and when soils are dry or frozen.
Figure 18. Early spring planting of poplar cuttings or sticks in the North Carolina coastal plain.
Acquiring, handling/storing, and preparing materials to plant: Some short-rotation forestry seedlings can be obtained from local or state-owned nurseries as bare-root seedlings and should be planted as soon as possible after purchase. Whether planting bare-rooted seedlings or “sticks,” make sure that dormant stock is stored in cold storage or a cool, dark place prior to planting. For bare-root seedlings (sycamore, sweet gum, bald cypress, and pine), make sure that the roots stay moist by adding a small amount of water to the bags. Never freeze trees. When transporting to plant, keep seedling roots immersed in water or the entire seedling in storage bags until planted. Do not leave bags in the sun.
The most efficient and cost-effective way to establish poplars is from dormant stem cuttings (Figure 19). Choose 8-inch to 12-inch long cuttings with a diameter of 1/2 inch or larger; there should be multiple buds on the stick. In certain specific applications, 4.5-foot to 6-foot-long whips and poles up to 12 feet long can be planted in augured holes. Soak cuttings in buckets of water at least 24 hours before planting. Soak whips in barrels, and poles should be immediately harvested and planted due to their size.
Figure 19. Bare-root sweetgum seedling (left), dormant stem cuttings ready to be planted (center), a cutting planted using a dibble bar (right).
Hand planting involves preparing planting holes using dibble bars (Figure 20). To prepare a planting hole, push the dibble bar into the soil vertically and then pull towards the planter. Place the seedling or cutting into the planting hole. Close the hole by inserting the dibble bar into the soil at an angle, with the bottom closest to the tree roots, and push the ground back towards the newly planted tree. Gently compact the soil around the tree with your foot. Use narrow-end dibble bars for planting hybrid poplar cuttings and wide-end dibble bars for bare-rooted seedlings. Use augers for deep planting of long hybrid poplar cuttings. Sticks and poplar cuttings should be planted with buds pointing upwards (Figure 21); be careful not to plant upside down. Plant deep enough to leave one inch of the cutting, whip, or stem above ground.
Figure 20. Narrow-end dibble bar (left) and wide-end dibble bars (center, right).
Figure 21. Sticks to be planted, showing proper stem sucker orientation (left). Hybrid poplar tree two weeks after planting (right).
Machine planting (Figure 22) involves the use of seedling and poplar-stick planters when soil and other site conditions allow for the operation of such equipment. Planting seedlings using planting equipment (mounted on tractors) involves preparation of planting slots by an agricultural ripper, a person (sitting at the back of the planter) placing seedlings into the slots, and a set of wheels at the back end of the planting unit closing the slots.
Post-planting observations should be made by regular monitoring of newly established short-rotation stands to assess overall tree condition, check for damage from browsing animals and pests, and monitor weeds and grass.
Figure 22. Young sycamore trees (left); Seedling planter (right) NC Forest Service Tree Planting Pocket Guide, 8th Edition. 2016. https://www.ncforestservice.gov/publications/NU0116.pdf