Offering Incense to the Snake

Renshou Temple, Guangfu Township, Hualien

Author: Cao Jun-Wei
Photos: Cao Jun-Wei (fjuhistorian2011.pixnet.net)

In the Year of the Snake, respectful phrases and blessings related to snakes can be found everywhere. Any topic connected with snakes becomes a popular subject of discussion, from the myth of Nüwa repairing the sky to the famous legend of the White Snake. Stories and anecdotes involving snakes continually emerge and attract attention. Whenever an unusual tale involving snakes appears, even in the most remote places, it can quickly gain popularity. In Taiwan’s eastern region, often referred to as the “back mountain,” there exists such a temple closely associated with snakes — Renshou Temple in Guangfu Township, Hualien County. (fjuhistorian2011.pixnet.net)

The phrase “When it seems that the mountains and rivers have reached their end, suddenly there appears another village amid shaded willows and blooming flowers” aptly describes Renshou Temple in Guangfu Township. Built in 1946 (ROC Year 35), the temple was established when the father of the current temple chairman, Wang Wan-Yi, invited a spiritual manifestation of the deity Gantian Dadi from Dayuan Renshou Temple in Taoyuan County to reside here. The temple also enshrines several deities, including Xuantan Yuanshuai, Fuxin Wanggong, Xuantian Shangdi, and Fude Zhengshen (the Earth God). (fjuhistorian2011.pixnet.net)

Located along a rural road far from the town center, the temple’s remote location has not diminished the devotion of worshippers. The main reason pilgrims travel long distances to visit is the presence of the “Messenger Cave,” where the temple’s “messengers” reside. These messengers are, in fact, snakes. For this reason, Renshou Temple is often called the “Snake Temple,” adding a sense of novelty and mystery to the site. (fjuhistorian2011.pixnet.net)

The Messenger Cave

Why are snakes regarded as sacred messengers worthy of worship at Renshou Temple? According to legend, during the early years after the temple’s establishment, a spiritual snake repeatedly appeared at the temple. Even when people captured the snake and released it back into the mountains, it would return again the next day. After this occurred several times, the deity Xuantan Yuanshuai (the Martial God of Wealth) communicated through a spirit medium, declaring that the snake was his messenger. As a result, the temple constructed a special dwelling place for the messenger, named the “Messenger Cave.” Since then, the snake has received offerings of incense from believers and occasionally emerges from the cave during festivals or when consulted for healing. (fjuhistorian2011.pixnet.net)

Snakes Practicing in the Cave

Every Lunar New Year, Renshou Temple conducts blessing ceremonies according to the zodiac conflicts of that year, attracting large crowds of worshippers. Believers may bring clothing frequently worn by family members, or attend in person, to allow the spirit medium to symbolically sweep away misfortune for the year. At the end of the blessing ceremony, a ritual known as “replenishing the treasury” (bu cai ku) is performed. Participants stand in circles and throw paper gold ingots into the fire, hoping that through the rising smoke and flames, the coming year will bring prosperity and wealth. (fjuhistorian2011.pixnet.net)

Located in the mountainous eastern region, this small temple’s spiritual snake fittingly echoes the symbolism of the Year of the Snake. Not only has the number of pilgrims increased, but many media outlets have also come to report on the temple. Hidden away from urban areas and surrounded by forest, this tranquil and secluded place has become widely known for its snake-related traditions. More importantly, the faith embodied in the temple helps dispel the fears and anxieties of believers. Religious sites such as this often provide people with a sense of peace and harmony. (fjuhistorian2011.pixnet.net)