The subject of Scroll-Saw/Fretsaw blades could occupy its own website so I will just cover a few basics here.
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Important advice on Blades for those new to Fretwork/scrollsawing
If you are a newcomer to the hobby of fret‑working, I would strongly advise against using the so‑called spiral fretwork blade, at least until you have gained some experience with normal blades.
I do discuss spiral blades below and in my videos, but, simply put, they are ordinary blades that have been twisted and therefore cut in all directions. They can be very useful, but they are also very difficult to control—especially for those new to the craft of fretwork.
Fretwork Blade types and usage
The first thing to consider is the length of the blade. For well over 100 years all fretsaws whether they are Treadle, powered or a simple hand frame have used a standard fretsaw blade which is 5 inches (127mm) in length The only exception is the Dremel machine which takes a special shorter blade. A few machines such as the Diamond will take practically any type or length of blade.
Next we come to the type of fixing, there are two types, plain end and pin end blades. The majority of the better quality machines use plain end blades, whilst some will take pin end blades as well. Budget saws generally take pin end blades but most can be adapted to take plain end blades.
Plain end blades.
In my opinion plain end blades are the best option for several reasons, two of which are they are readily available from lots of suppliers and secondly there is a huge choice of blade in respect of type and number of teeth etc. Plain end blades are either clamped directly in the clamps on the machine or fitted into 'loose' clamps which you fit the blade in then place the assembly into the machine itself.
There are three main types of blade available in terms of profile or teeth they are plain common fretsaw blades, modified geometry blades and spiral blades. (The modified geometry blades are usually reverse tooth blades but other types are available with special teeth etc).
The normal common fretsaw blades are very widely available and are perfectly good for most fretwork jobs, they are available in a huge range of thicknesses and teeth. The blades are normally sized by numbers from 00 through 0, 1 up to a number 12, the higher the number the thicker the blade. You do not need to have all the sizes you can easily do most things with just three for example a good range is No. 3, No. 5 and No. 7. There are also very fine piercing saw blades and metal cutting blades that you can use too, but you do need experience to use these.
The blades are usually sold in packs of a dozen (12) or a gross (144) but some sell them in packs of 10 or 100. You will need a good stock of blades (they are cheap to buy) because if you are a beginner you will break quite a few until you get more experienced but later as you get better at the hobby you will need to change them as they get blunt! In actual fact I always say that when you change blades for bluntness you are experienced!
Most of the plain type blades are stamped out in a factory which gives the blade a certain bias, you will notice this when cutting a straight line because you have to angle the work on the table a little to follow the line, this is due to blade bias, not inexperience. Some quality blades are cut differently and claim to have zero bias.
Now we come to modified geometry blades. There are quite a few variations in this range with various shapes of teeth etc but the most common and useful type is known as a reverse tooth blade.
Basically, they are a blade where most teeth point downwards as in a normal blade but with a few teeth at the bottom pointing upwards. The reason for this is to do with tear-out or splintering at the bottom of the cut in the work, the idea being is that the few teeth pointing upwards help to reduce this splintering.
Splintering is more likely with plywood or softwoods and not so much with hardwood. (There are other ways to help prevent splintering which I discuss in one of my Youtube videos). There are many types of modified geometry blades, some for example have 'skip teeth' that is every other tooth missing and there are also blades with odd shaped teeth.
The third type of blade is the spiral blade. Now let me say at the outset, I do not like spiral blades, in my opinion they are the work of the Devil. My advice to anyone starting in the hobby is do not under any circumstances use spirals as they will likely put you off the hobby for life!
Now after that rant I should say that there are scroll-sawers who use only spiral blades and they do absolutely superb work using them. I take my hat off to them. I have had spiral blades in my stock since I was a young lad but every time I try to use them I end up tearing my hair out!
Spiral blades are basically a normal blade that has been twisted so that it can cut in all directions which make them much more difficult to control unless you are one of the people who has mastered the 'knack' of using them.
Spiral blades are commonly only available in the one size, however some manufacturers and suppliers do list spirals in a range of sizes i.e. 00-10.
Pin end Blades.
Many of the cheaper models of scroll-saws use pin end blades. The only advantage of these that I can see is that they are a little easier to fit to the machine - you simply clip them in place and adjust the blade tension. Pin end blades look very similar to coping saw blades except that they are just 5 inches long compared to the coping saw blades 7 inches.
There are several disadvantages to using pin end blades, firstly they are more difficult to obtain than plain blades and they are not generally available in a large range of sizes as with plain blades.
Secondly and more importantly they are very tricky to use if you are doing intricate fretwork with many internal cuts. The reason is that you need to insert the blade through a very small hole with many internal cuts, simple with plain blades but difficult with pin end blades.
My advice is that if you have a machine that uses pin end blades buy or make some adaptors so you can use plain end blades instead.
For further details of pin end blades versus plain blades see my video Choosing a Scrollsaw why pay more!
As a beginner to the hobby which blade should you use?
“Which type of blade should I use?” is the question most often asked by those new to fretworking. With so many makes, types, and sizes available, it can seem bewildering for beginners to know which to choose. My advice is to avoid the very thin blades - sizes No. 00 (the thinnest) up to No. 2. A good starting point is to buy a small selection of three sizes, such as No. 3, No. 5, and No. 9. The finer blades certainly have their uses for very delicate work, but they break easily, especially in the hands of beginners. Even a No. 3 blade will allow you to do fine work while being far less prone to snapping. Blades from size No. 7 upwards are suitable for heavier work on thicker materials and can perform tasks similar to a small bandsaw, while giving you more control for cutting tighter curves. Scrollsaws are also much safer to use than a bandsaw.
There are many manufacturers and suppliers of scroll-saw blades, three well known ones are Niqua, Pegas, and Olson. I would not like to recommend any particular brand but myself for the last 40+ years I have always used Niqua blades from Hobbies UK I have always found these blades satisfactory. Niqua make a huge range of blades, Hobbies do not stock the full range, they also stock other brands of fretsaw blades.
A few tips on using the blades.
Until you are more experienced don't try the very fine blades- that is 00-1 sizes, stick to size 3 and above.
Run a wax candle around the blade and on the saw table, it makes for smoother cutting.
Some users use a file or oil-stone to round the two back edges of the blade, this can help in tight corners etc.
Placing some clear adhesive tape (Sellotape) over the cutting line on the pattern helps by lubricating the cut.
Do not despair when the blade breaks with a bang and you almost 'jump out of your skin' it happens to all of us and if you are like me you never get used to it. I have been a fret-worker for 60 years and it still makes me jump.
Cutting Metals with a Scrollsaw
As well as cutting wood on your scrollsaw, it’s also possible to cut metals — but only if you use the correct type of blade. Metal‑cutting blades, also known as jeweller’s or piercing blades, are made from hardened, tempered steel and are available in an even wider range of sizes than standard wood‑cutting blades, from an extremely fine 8/0 (eight zeros) up to No. 12. Blades finer than 2/0 (00) should not be used in powered saws, as they are too fragile and are intended solely for hand‑saw work.
Metal‑cutting blades have far more teeth per inch than wood blades. For example, while a No. 1 wood‑cutting blade may have around 20 teeth per inch the equivalent metal‑cutting blade could have roughly 48 teeth per inch, allowing it to cut metals cleanly but at a slower feed rate.
You must take special care when cutting metals, please take a look at the Fretwork Help page for more information on working with metal.
Fretsaw blade size conundrum
Many people who are new to the fretwork or scroll‑saw hobby find the choice of blade type or size bewildering. Considering some of the blade‑size charts offered online and in books, it’s hardly surprising — many of these charts are very confusing.
From the early days of the craft right up until the resurgence of the hobby in the late 1970s, blades were sold almost exclusively using a simple numbering system from 00 to 12 — with 00 being the finest and 12 the thickest. There was little mention of today’s confusing terminology such as TPI, cutting trace, optimal thickness, or SKU numbers.
I think the easiest way to choose a blade is to ignore all the technical jargon and simply select one based on what you’re cutting, using the straightforward numbering system from 00 to 12. Most of us are cutting wood, and in most cases all you need to do is pick a blade according to the thickness of the material or the level of intricacy in the design.
Blade sizes using the traditional numbering system
Obviously, you would use a lower‑numbered blade (the thinnest) for delicate work and a higher‑numbered blade for thicker or heavier material. That said, unless you’re cutting a very fine or intricate pattern, you don’t need to use the thinnest blades. Even a No. 3 or No. 5 will allow surprisingly fine cutting while giving you better control and durability.
In fairness you do not need all sizes of blade as there is not a great deal of difference between the two adjacent sizes. You may notice that No. 8 is missing from my chart above, this is because for some unknown reason the original Hobbies company (pre 1960s) never listed a No.8 blade.
Even after Hobbies had started making their own Fretworking machines and tools in their factory at Dereham they were still having to import fretsaw blades from Germany. Fortunately for Hobbies in 1887 Herbert Jewson had joined them as their chief engineer, (later a director of Hobbies Ltd). Jewson was a very clever engineer and invented an ingenious machine to manufacture fretsaw blades, which by the 1930s was manufacturing some 10 million fretsaw blades every year.
Hobbies were the only company in Great Britain who made Fretwork blades.
Herbert Jewson also invented many of the machines that Hobbies used in the manufacture of fretworking tools and machinery. He became a Director of Hobbies until ill health forced him into retirement and his early death in 1932 at age of 68. Right Herbert Jewson, Engineer.
My channel on YouTube has lots of instructional videos on the subject of fretworking.
My videos are filmed live 'so to speak' with me speaking as I work with no script or planning
Sometimes things go wrong in which case I leave the camera running so that the viewer can profit from my mistakes.
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