ABS is a durable, impact-resistant filament known for its strength, heat resistance, and mechanical properties. It requires high temperatures and an enclosure to minimize warping and layer splitting.
Hot End Temperature: 220–250°C (Recommended: 235–245°C)
Bed Temperature: 90–110°C (Higher temps improve adhesion and reduce warping)
Print Speed: 40–60 mm/s (Slower speeds improve adhesion and print quality)
Cooling Fan: 0–20% (Too much cooling causes layer separation)
Retraction Distance:
Direct Drive: 1–2 mm
Bowden: 4–6 mm
Retraction Speed: 30–45 mm/s (Higher speeds help reduce stringing but must be tuned carefully)
Layer Height: 0.1–0.2 mm (Smaller layers improve strength and detail)
First Layer Speed: 15–20 mm/s (Slower speeds improve bed adhesion)
Infill: 20–30% (Higher for mechanical parts)
Bed Adhesion:
Use brims or rafts to prevent warping
Kapton tape, PEI sheet, glue stick, or ABS slurry help with bed adhesion
Enclosure required for consistent heat retention
Abrasive Filament: Regular brass nozzles will wear out quickly—always use a hardened steel or specialty nozzle
Warping? Print in a fully enclosed chamber, increase bed temperature, and use an adhesion aid
Layer Splitting? Reduce cooling, increase hot end temperature, and use higher flow rate
Poor Bed Adhesion? Use rafts, brims, or ABS slurry for a stronger first layer
Weak Prints? Increase wall thickness (3+ perimeters) and higher infill (40% or more)
Post-Processing: ABS can be sanded, glued, or acetone-smoothed for a polished, professional look
Creality Hyper ABS is a high-performance ABS filament designed to offer stronger, more durable prints with improved adhesion and fewer printing issues. This filament is designed for enhanced stability and minimal warping compared to standard ABS, but it still requires proper temperature control and ventilation.
Hot End Temperature: 240–260°C (Recommended: 250°C for optimal layer adhesion)
Bed Temperature: 90–110°C (Higher temperatures improve adhesion, but the bed should be heated thoroughly before printing)
Print Speed: 40–60 mm/s (Standard for ABS, slower speeds give better results for more detailed parts)
Cooling Fan: 0–20% (Avoid excessive cooling to prevent layer separation)
Retraction Distance:
Direct Drive: 1–2 mm
Bowden: 4–6 mm
Retraction Speed: 25–40 mm/s (Test for stringing and adjust as necessary)
Layer Height: 0.1–0.2 mm (Larger layers can affect strength; 0.2 mm is a good balance for general prints)
First Layer Speed: 15–20 mm/s (Slower speed helps first layer adhesion)
Infill: 20–40% (Higher infill is recommended for parts requiring strength)
Bed Adhesion:
Use a raft or brim to ensure better adhesion and reduce warping
Kapton tape, PEI sheet, or ABS slurry will provide strong adhesion on the heated bed
Enclosure is recommended to avoid drafts and maintain a consistent temperature
Abrasive Filament: Regular brass nozzles will wear out quickly, always use a hardened steel or specialty nozzle
Warping or Lifting Corners? Increase the bed temperature to 100°C or higher and use a raft or brim
Poor Layer Adhesion? Increase the hot end temperature to 250°C and reduce the cooling fan speed
First Layer Not Sticking? Slow the first layer speed and ensure the bed is level before printing
Stringing Issues? Fine-tune retraction settings (slightly higher retraction distance and speed)
Post-Processing: Creality Hyper ABS can be sanded, glued, or acetone-smoothed to create a polished, professional finish
Ventilation: Print in a well-ventilated area or use an air filtration system to mitigate the fumes produced by ABS during printing.
Enclosure: Using an enclosure will help maintain a consistent temperature and reduce warping issues.
ABS can be smoothed and polished to achieve a glossy, professional finish using various methods. The most common and effective technique is acetone vapor smoothing, but sanding and polishing can also enhance the surface.
Acetone dissolves the surface of ABS, allowing it to smooth out and become glossy. This method is ideal for giving ABS prints a polished, injection-molded look.
Steps for Acetone Vapor Smoothing:
Prepare a Sealed Container
Use a metal or glass container with an airtight lid. Avoid plastic as acetone can degrade it.
Place Paper Towels or Sponges Inside
Line the inside with acetone-soaked paper towels or sponges. Avoid direct contact between the acetone and the print.
Elevate the Print
Place your ABS print on a platform or mesh inside the container to prevent it from sitting in liquid acetone.
Let Vapors Work (5-30 Minutes Depending on Size and Exposure)
Close the lid and let the vapors dissolve the surface. Check progress every few minutes.
Remove and Let Dry
Carefully remove the print and let it dry in a well-ventilated area. The surface will harden as the acetone evaporates.
Pros: Produces a smooth, glossy finish and hides layer lines.
Cons: Can weaken fine details and requires careful handling.
If you prefer a more controlled approach, sanding and polishing can create a smooth, satin-to-glossy finish.
Steps for Sanding and Polishing:
Start with a Coarse Grit (150-200 Grit)
Use dry sandpaper to remove layer lines and imperfections.
Move to Finer Grits (400, 800, 1000, 2000 Grit)
Wet sand with progressively finer grits for a smooth surface.
Apply Polishing Compound
Use plastic or automotive polish and buff with a microfiber cloth or rotary tool.
Wax or Clear Coat (Optional for Extra Shine)
A thin layer of wax or clear spray coat enhances shine and protection.
Pros: More control over finish and preserves fine details.
Cons: Time-consuming compared to acetone smoothing.
Applying a clear acrylic or polyurethane spray coat can add shine and protection to your ABS print.
Steps for Spray Coating:
Lightly Sand for Better Adhesion
Apply a Thin, Even Coat of Clear Spray Paint
Let It Dry and Apply Additional Coats as Needed
Pros: Fast, easy, and enhances shine without weakening the print.
Cons: Do not remove layer lines as effectively as acetone smoothing.