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Our plan was to go clockwise around the South Island. While you can't actually do this all the way around the coast (there are no roads along the coast on the South-West of the island due to mountains, fiords, etc), we will try our best. The first leg was from Christchurch to Oamaru where we hoped to see the Little Blue Penguins for which Oamaru is famous.
Leaving our very comfy and colourful motel in Christchurch. We stayed here 3 times!
Not a Little Blue Penguin (see below) but a New Zealand Fur Seal.
Arriving in Oamaru, we unpacked, then set off for the Visitor's Centre for the Blue Penguins. These seem to be a close relation to the Fairy Penguins we see in Victoria and Tasmania. The website says they are open all year around. Upon arriving there, we went in to book, only to be told that, 'We only had 3 last night. They're all off moulting. Come back late April". So instead, we wandered around and watched the NZ Fur Seals playing on the rocks, as well as an old abandoned wharf that was now home to hundreds of Cormorants. We consoled ourselves with a lovely seaside lunch.
<Above> Cormorant Central, Oamaru. <Right> Caught in the act.
The next day we set off for Dunedin with two stops in mind. The Moeraki Boulders, and Shag Point. The Moeraki Boulders are a group of boulders that sit in the sand and become more or less visible over time as the tides shift the sand. When we were there, they were reasonably visible. It seems they are embedded in the sand dunes behind the beach, get exposed by the weather, then roll onto the beach and sink.
The boulders. A 'Sue Ross' for scale.
The information kiosk poster shows they can be a lot more exposed.
Katiki Point, looking towards Shag Point way in the distance. Notice the absolutely terrible weather we've been having. Every time I see this shot I think someone has PhotoShopped that round cloud into the picture (but I hadn't).
Shag Point, with a host of very laid back Fur Seals.
Straight and to the point. "Do not disturb. Use zoom for photos".
The main focus in Dunedin was the Royal Albatross Centre on Taiaroa Head at the entrance to Dunedin Harbour. It is home to the world’s only mainland Royal Albatross breeding colony, and the biggest breeding site for the Northern Royal Albatross. Apparently, there are also Southern Royal Albatrosses, but 99% or the 6500-ish birds breed on Campbell Island which is halfway between NZ and Antarctica, so we weren't going to see any. There is a brilliant bird hide at the top of the headland from which to observe them as they soar on the ever-present (and rather cold) winds
"The breeding birds arrive at Taiaroa Head on Otago Peninsula in September. They nest during early November and within the following three weeks an egg is laid – they are slow breeding birds and lay only one egg per pair every two years. The parents share incubation duty as it lasts a period of 80 days! The chicks hatch from late January to early February, and both parents take turns at guarding the chick for the first 35 days to protect it from predators. After that the chick is by itself, with parents only returning with food every few days. It takes eight months for the little balls of fluff to become not so little juveniles, and they will finally take their first ever flight in September! 12 months after their arrival at Taiaroa Head, the chicks’ parents finally leave the colony to spend a year at sea before returning to breed again."
Just magical to watch them soaring efortlessly.
With a wingspan of 3 to 3.5m (9'6" - 11'6") they are the biggest seabirds around.
Looking up the very long harbour towards Dunedin from the Albatross Centre.
I loved this 5 storey tall mural.
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