The Redwood National and State Parks (RNSP) are a complex of one national park and three California state parks located in the United States along the coast of northern California. The combined RNSP contain Redwood National Park, Del Norte Coast Redwoods State Park, Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, and Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. The parks' 139,000 acres (560 km2) preserve 45 percent of all remaining old-growth coast redwood forests.

Redwood forest originally covered more than two million acres (8,100 km2) of the California coast, and the region of today's parks largely remained wild until after 1850. The gold rush and attendant timber business unleashed a torrent of European-American activity, pushing Native Americans aside and supplying lumber to the West Coast. Decades of unrestricted clear-cut logging ensued, followed by ardent conservation efforts. In the 1920s, the Save the Redwoods League helped create Prairie Creek, Del Norte Coast, and Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Parks among others. After lobbying from the league and the Sierra Club, Congress created Redwood National Park in 1968 and expanded it in 1978. In 1994, the National Park Service (NPS) and the California Department of Parks and Recreation combined Redwood National Park with the three abutting Redwoods State Parks into a single administrative unit. Modern RNSP management seeks to both protect and restore the coast redwood forests to their condition before 1850, including by controlled burning.

Redwood National Park California

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In recognition of the rare ecosystem and cultural history found in the parks, the United Nations designated them a World Heritage Site in 1980. Local tribes declared an Indigenous Marine Stewardship Area in 2023, protecting the parks region, the coastline, and coastal waters. Park admission is free except for special permits, and visitors may camp, hike, bike, and ride horseback along about 200 miles (320 km) of park system trails.

Modern day Native American nations such as the Yurok, Tolowa, Karuk, Chilula, and Wiyot have historical ties to the region,[3] which has had various indigenous occupants for millennia.[4] Describing "a diversity in an area that size that has probably has never been equaled anywhere else in the world", historian David Stannard accounts for more than thirty native nations that lived in northwestern California.[5] Scholar Gail L. Jenner estimates that "at least fifteen" tribal groups inhabited the coastline.[6]

The Yurok, Chilula, and Tolowa were the most connected to the current parks' areas.[7] Based on an 1852 census, anthropologist Alfred Kroeber estimated that the Yurok population in that year was around 2,500.[3] Historian Ed Bearss described the Yurok as the most populous in the area, estimating that there were around 55 villages.[3] Until the 1860s, the Chilula lived in the middle region of the Redwood Creek valley in close company with the redwood trees.[8] They primarily settled along Redwood Creek between the coast and Minor Creek, California, and in summer they would range into and camp in the Bald Hills.[9] The Tolowa were located near the Smith River, and on lands that are now part of Jedediah Smith State Park, an area which 21st century excavation found has been inhabited for at least 8,500 years.[10]

Native Americans residing within the park areas relied on redwood trees as a construction material, and some featured the trees in their mythology, including the Chilula, who viewed the trees as gifts from a creator.[11] The tribes harvested coast redwoods and processed them into planks, using them as building material for boats, houses, and small villages.[12] To construct buildings, the planks would be erected side by side in a narrow trench, with the upper portions lashed with willow or hazel and held by notches cut into the supporting roof beams. Redwood boards were used to form a two- or three-pitch roof.[13]

Historians believe that the first Europeans to visit land near what is now the parks were members of the Cabrillo expedition led by Bartolom Ferrer.[14] In 1543, Ferrer's ship made landfall at Cape Mendocino and may have reached waters off Oregon as far north as the 43rd parallel.[14] Hubert Howe Bancroft disagreed, believing that Ferrer's ship did not travel so far north.[14] Explorers including Francis Drake sailed past[15] the foggy, rocky coast, but generally did not set anchor until 1775, when Bruno de Heceta and Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra of Spain spent about ten days at the Yurok village of Tsurai south of the parks.[16] George Vancouver and Francisco de Eliza followed in 1793.[16] American fur trading ships under contract to Russians stopped at Tsurai during the early 19th century.[17]

Prior to Jedediah Smith in 1828, no other explorer of European descent is known to have explored the interior of the Northern California coastal region. Smith and nineteen companions left San Jose, California, and explored what are now called the Trinity, Smith, and Klamath rivers, passing through coast redwood forests and trading with Native American groups. They reached the coast near Requa, parts of which are within the parks' boundaries.[18]

Redwood logging followed gold mining, and most mining companies became lumber interests.[24] Redwood has a straight grain, making planks easy to cut. Because redwood can defy the weather and does not warp, it became a valuable commodity.[25] Jenner says a good team of two men could saw through a redwood tree at about a foot per hour with a crosscut saw, their preferred tool until after World War II.[26] Because wheeled vehicles could not travel the landscape, teams of six or twelve oxen transported logs to logging roads.[27] Rivers or railroads took them to the region's lumber mills.[28] After the 1881 invention of the steam donkey and later its successor the bull donkey, the need to fell intervening trees so the donkeys could work spawned the practice called clearcutting.[29] Caterpillar tractors began to compete with manual labor in the late 1920s.[30]

After extensive logging, conservationists and concerned citizens began to seek ways to preserve remaining trees, which they saw being logged at an alarming rate.[31] Stumbling blocks slowed conservation: objections and some innovations came from the logging industry,[a] construction of the Redwood Highway brought roadside attractions and more visitors to the trees,[34] Congress failed to act,[b] and voracious demand for lumber came with the post-World War II construction boom.[c]

Organizations formed to preserve the surviving trees:[36] concerned about the sequoia of Yosemite, John Muir cofounded the Sierra Club in 1892.[37] The Sempervirens Club was cofounded in 1900 by artist Andrew P. Hill who lobbied the media, and saw the oldest state park created along with the California state park system.[38] In 1916, politician William Kent purchased land outright and helped to write the bill founding the National Park Service (NPS). In 1918, John Merriam and other members of the Boone and Crockett Club[39] founded the Save the Redwoods League.[40] The league bought land and donated funds for land purchases. Historian Susan Schrepfer writes that, in a sixty-year-long marathon, the Save the Redwoods League and the Sierra Club were racing the logging companies for the old trees.[41]

In 1927, Olmsted's survey was complete and concluded that only three percent of the state's redwoods could be preserved. He recommended four redwood areas for parks, including three areas that became Prairie Creek Redwoods, Del Norte Coast Redwoods, and Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Parks. A fourth became Humboldt Redwoods State Park, by far the largest of the individual Redwoods State Parks, but not in the Redwood National and State Parks system.[48] Now armed with matching funds after 1928, the league bought more land and added to these parks as conditions allowed.[49]

The NPS proposed a redwoods national park in 1938. The Save the Redwoods League opposed it, highlighting a division between preservationists who preferred unembellished nature and a segment of the park service who wished to provide recreation and playgrounds for the public.[50] Both the league and the Sierra Club wanted a redwoods national park by the 1960s, but the club and the league supported different locations.[51] The club and the league were antagonists during the 1960s,[52] often on opposite sides of national park arguments, until 1971 when the league backed a club position,[53] and the late 1970s when the league became a club member.[54]

The Sierra Club wanted the largest possible park and usually sought help from the federal government.[55] More cautious, the Save the Redwoods League tended to accommodate industry and support the state of California.[56] When the agency had no funds in 1963, the National Geographic Society funded an NPS survey of the redwoods.[57] In 1964, NPS released its ideas for three different sized redwood national parks.[58] In 1964, Congress passed the Land and Water Conservation Fund to allow federal funds to purchase parkland.[59]

Describing a reason for the club's success, Willard Pratt of the Arcata lumber company writes, "The Sierra Club demonstrated a basic political fact of life: Opposition to particular preservation proposals usually is local while support is national. If decision making can be placed at the national level, preservation usually can win".[60]

Initially opposing the park in the 1960s, the Arcata, Georgia-Pacific, and Miller lumber businesses operated right up to the boundaries being discussed.[61] In 1965, five logging companies formally objected to any redwood national park.[60] Schrepfer writes that the final bill divided the impact between the lumber companies, between California counties, and tried to appeal to both the league and the club. Schrepfer says that in large part, the bill was framed on the loggers' terms.[62] After intense lobbying of Congress, the bill creating Redwood National Park was signed by President Lyndon B. Johnson in October 1968.[63] 152ee80cbc

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