When I started building my SMuFF my printer was already comfortably housed inside a enclosure derived from one of the many projects based on IKEA's LACK coffee tables. Furthermore, the printer itself had undergone some changes such as the addition of a linear guide on the X axis and the replacement of the standard nozzle with a Teflon-coated one. Unfortunately this placed limits on the use of some standard components of the SMuFF project, specifically the whiper and the filament cutter.

Overcoming these obstacles seemed quite difficult at first, but by silently following the project's Discord channels I saw how collaborative and inspiring the community of makers that gathered around SMuFF was. This gave me the right push to start a journey of several months of "create, try, fail, say bad words, do it all over again" which in the end allowed me to achieve this....

As I was saying, both the enclosure itself and the components changed on the printer placed constraints on the use of the standard SMuFF components which can be summarized as follows:

•  The Teflon-coated nozzle was too delicate to use a wire brush on the whiper arm

•  The standard whiper was mounted on the X-axis motor, so on the left where in my enclosure I have one of the printer access doors

•  I placed the printer on some risers to improve the cooling of the electronics and now the top of the printer is just a few millimeters from the roof of the enclosure. The original filament cutter develops along the Z axis and this would have led to losing too much height travel to avoid colliding with the head.

•  The Smart Filament Buffer is very functional but did not fit well with the integration of my enclosure

•  The same goes for the electronics and display enclosure of the SMuFF

•  I wanted the SMuFF, its power supply and control electronics and all the filament spools, to be integrated on my enclosure equipped with wheels so that I could move the printer quickly and without problems between the various rooms of the house (normally it's in my room but when I make prints that are too long or with filaments such as ABS I move it)

•  I wanted to reduce filament waste so avoid the use of purge towers and prefer the use of a purge bin and possibly try to remove the tip of the cut filament so as to have to waste less filament to avoid color bleeding... And to be even more masochistic everything had to be driven exclusively only by the servo used in the standard filament cutter, no other servos or steppers or electronic devices......

Let's begin.....