Base 1 — Radiant Modern Foundation
Purpose: the most “universal” transparent scaffold (works with citrus, florals, woods, spices).
Formula (100%)
Hedione: 15.0
Iso E Super: 15.0
Galaxolide: 20.0
Ethylene Brassylate (EB): 20.0
Exaltolide: 8.0
Hexyl Salicylate: 7.0
Benzyl Salicylate: 2.5
Hydroxycitronellal: 2.5
Mayol: 1.25
Lilyflore: 1.25
Cyclamen-type material: 0.40
Ambrettolide: 2.10
DPG (or 1,3-Propanediol): 5.0
Drop-in target: add 10–25% essential oils/naturals.
What it gives: air + modern wood + clean musk “fabric” + a heart that won’t die.
Experiment by adding these natural materials:
Top
Bergamot EO
Lemon EO
Grapefruit EO
Petitgrain EO
Pink Peppercorn EO
Middle
Lavender EO
Geranium EO
Rose (otto or absolute)
Jasmine absolute
Ylang-ylang EO
Frankincense/Olibanum EO or resinoid (between middle and base)
Base
Patchouli EO
Vetiver EO
Labdanum absolute/resinoid
Benzoin resinoid
Frankincense/Olibanum EO or resinoid (between middle and base)
Base 2 — “Clean Muguet” Transparent Floral Cushion
Purpose: cool dewy heart (amazing for neroli, petitgrain, bergamot, lavender, rose EO, green notes).
Formula (100%)
Hedione: 25.00
Iso E Super: 16.35
Galaxolide: 10.90
EB: 10.90
Hexyl Salicylate: 8.18
Hydroxycitronellal: 5.45
Mayol: 8.80
Lilyflore: 8.80
Cyclamen-type material: 1.02
Ambrettolide: 1.09
Exaltolide: 2.73
DPG (or 1,3-Propanediol): 5.00
Drop-in target: 10–30% naturals (especially fresh/floral EOs).
What it gives: clean “petal dew” + heart diffusion + polished floral mid.
Experiment by adding these natural materials:
Top
Bergamot EO
Neroli EO
Orange EO
MIddle
Rose (otto or absolute) or accords
Jasmine absolute or accords
Ylang-ylang EO or accords
Orris butter (orris concrete/absolute) or accords
Violet leaf absolute
Base
Sandalwood
Vanillin
Base 3 — Woody-Musky “Skin Scent” Scaffold
Purpose: quiet luxury, soft aura; great for sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, incense, orris, musk-like naturals.
Formula (100%)
Iso E Super: 35.0
Hedione: 17.0
Ethylene Brassylate (EB): 12.0
Galaxolide: 12.0
Exaltolide: 8.5
Ambrettolide: 1.5
Benzyl Salicylate: 3.0
Hexyl Salicylate: 3.0
Cashmeran: 3.0
Amber Xtreme: 0.20
Vanillin: 1.0
Benzyl benzoate: 5.0
DPG / 1,3-PDO: 5.0
Experiment by adding these natural materials:
Sandalwood oil
Cedarwood (Atlas or Virginia) EO
Vetiver EO
Patchouli EO
Labdanum absolute/resinoid
Benzoin resinoid
Frankincense (olibanum) EO/resinoid
Myrrh resinoid
Birch tar (rectified)
Base 4 — Solar Floral Body Builder
Purpose: gives naturals that “modern creamy floral body” (ylang, jasmine abs, neroli, rose, orange blossom accords).
Formula (100%)
Hedione: 22
Iso E Super: 12
Hexyl Salicylate: 10
Amyl (or Isoamyl) Salicylate: 4
Benzyl Salicylate: 5
Galaxolide: 8
EB: 6
Mayol: 1
Hydroxycitronellal: 2
Ambrettolide: 0.5
Exaltolide: 1.5
TEC: 28
Drop-in target: 10–25% naturals.
What it gives: “sun-warmed” floral volume + heart continuity + commercial polish.
Experiment by adding these natural materials:
Creamy florals (5)
Ylang-ylang EO
Champaca absolute
Tuberose absolute
Orange Blossom absolute
Jasmine sambac absolute
Milky materials (5)
γ-Nonalactone (C-9 lactone)
γ-Decalactone (C-10 lactone)
Milk Accord (perfumers workd)
δ-Dodecalactone (Aldehyde C-18)
Creamy floral accords (5)
Tuberose accord
Gardenia accord
Ylang accord
Jasmine milk accords
Tonka-type materials (5)
Tonka bean absolute
Coumarin
Hay absolute
Peru balsam (resinoid)
Benzoin resinoid
Base 5 — Fresh Citrus/Herbal Lift Base
Purpose: stops citrus/herbal EOs from disappearing; keeps it airy and “radiant.”
Formula (100%)
Hedione: 30
Iso E Super: 15
Helvetolide: 3
Galaxolide: 11
EB: 11
Lilyflore: 1
Cyclamen-type material: 0.4
Hydroxycitronellal: 1.5
Hexyl Salicylate: 4
Ambrettolide: 0.6
Exaltolide: 1.5
TEC: 21
Drop-in target: 10–30% citrus/herbal EO blends.
What it gives: lift + airy projection + a heart that stays present.
Experiment by adding these natural materials:
Top (7)
Bergamot EO
Lemon EO
Sweet Orange EO
Grapefruit EO
Petitgrain EO
Neroli EO
Lime EO
Middle (7)
Lavender EO
Rosemary EO
Clary Sage EO
Geranium EO
Neroli absolute (orange blossom absolute)
Jasmine absolute
Rose otto/absolute
Base (7)
Vetiver EO
Patchouli EO
Frankincense (olibanum) EO/resinoid
Benzoin resinoid
Labdanum absolute/resinoid
Cedarwood (Atlas or Virginia) EO
Sandalwood oil
Base 6 — “Resin/Spice Helper” Transparent Base
Purpose: when students drop in benzoin/opoponax/incense/spice EOs and things get thick, dull, or unstable.
Formula (100%)
Hedione: 18
Iso E Super: 18
Galaxolide: 6
EB: 6
Hexyl Salicylate: 5
Benzyl Salicylate: 3
Exaltolide: 2
Ambrettolide: 0.5
Hydroxycitronellal: 1.5
Mayol: 0.8
TEC: 10
Benzyl Benzoate: 8
DPG / 1,3-PDO: 20.2
Drop-in target: 10–25% resins/spices/woods.
What it gives: stability + solvency + still stays relatively transparent.
Experiment by adding these natural materials:
Middle (10)
Rose (otto or absolute)
Saffron
Cinnamon bark EO
Cinnamon leaf EO
Clove bud EO
Nutmeg EO
Cardamom EO
Black pepper EO
Geranium EO
Orange blossom absolute
Base (10)
Labdanum absolute/resinoid
Benzoin resinoid
Myrrh resinoid
Frankincense (olibanum) EO/resinoid
Opoponax (sweet myrrh) resinoid
Patchouli EO
Vetiver EO
Sandalwood oil
Cedarwood EO
Oud (agarwood) oil
“Drop-in” classroom exercises (easy and very effective)
Give every student one base and the same EO set.
20% EO challenge
80% Base 1 (Radiant Modern)
20% essential-oil blend (their choice)
Evaluate: 0 min / 30 min / 3 hr / next day on strip.
Same EO, different bases (best learning)
Use the exact same 20% EO blend and compare across Base 1 vs Base 2 vs Base 3.The “overdose test” (teaches restraint)
Make 3 versions: 70/30, 80/20, 90/10 (base/EO).
Students learn where naturals collapse the structure.
Quick troubleshooting rules for students
Too flat / too musky-blanket: reduce total musks 2–5% and add Hedione 3–8%.
Heart disappears: add Hexyl Salicylate 1–3% + Mayol 0.5–1.5%.
Too soapy/old-school floral: reduce Hydroxycitronellal; increase Lilyflore + cyclamen.
Thick / cloudy / resins misbehaving: shift 2–5% into TEC or Benzyl Benzoate (and reduce DPG accordingly).
Too dry “pencil wood”: reduce Iso E 2–5% and add EB 1–2% + Hedione 3–6%.