Base Material Descriptions
Diffusion boosters / radiance
Hedione (methyl dihydrojasmonate)
Main effect: airy, transparent jasmine-like radiance; bridges notes
Lifetime: ~160 hours on strip (6–7 days)
Impact: ~65 (strong but soft blender)
Typical usage amount: 2–15% (can be higher, up to ~35%+)
Iso E Super
Main effect: smooth transparent cedar/ambery “skin-wood” volume; boosts diffusion and blends edges
Lifetime: 280 hours on a smelling strip
Impact: 40 (Relative Odor Impact)
Typical usage amount: up to 30% as a blender; can be used much higher (even ~80%) in very linear “substrate” style formulas
Amber Xtreme
Main effect: very powerful dry woody-amber radiance; boosts projection and long-lasting trail
Lifetime: >172 hours on a smelling strip (also described as >1 week on blotter by another supplier )
Impact: 8/10 odour strength and 8/10 dominant impact in blends (vendor scale)
Typical usage amount: traces to 0.5%
Musks (clean fabric → skin musks → fruity musks)
Galaxolide
Main effect: clean, sweet “soft fabric / laundry” musk; adds smooth diffusion and volume
Lifetime: 200 hours on a smelling strip
Impact: 60 (Relative Odor Impact)
Typical usage amount: 2–15% (often 3–10%; can be 20%+ in very musky bases)
Ethylene Brassylate (EB)
Main effect: warm, soft macrocyclic “skin musk” with gentle sweetness; adds body + fixation (less “laundry” than Galaxolide)
Lifetime: 280 hours on a smelling strip
Impact: 40 (Relative Odor Impact)
Typical usage amount: 2–15% (often 4–12%; can be 20%+ in musk bases)
Exaltolide
Exaltolide (Pentadecanolide / ω-pentadecalactone)
Main effect: clean, elegant macrocyclic “skin musk” (creamy, smooth, expensive-feeling); boosts diffusion and softness
Lifetime: 500 hours on a smelling strip
Impact: 25 (Relative Odor Impact)
Typical usage amount: 0.5–6% (often 1–3%; can be higher in musk-focused bases)
Ambrettolide
Main effect: soft “natural-leaning” musk with a fruity/pear-wine nuance; adds sensual radiance and smooth diffusion
Lifetime: 450 hours on a smelling strip
Impact: 30 (Relative Odor Impact)
Typical usage amount: 0.2–3% (often 0.3–1.5%; higher in musk bases)
Helvetolide
Main effect: clean fruity musk (pear/apple-like) that boosts diffusion and makes tops feel plush/lasting
Lifetime: 400 hours on a smelling strip
Impact: 100 (Relative Odor Impact)
Typical usage amount: 0.05–5% (PerfumersWorld typical range)
Floralizers / muguet heart builders
Hydroxycitronellal
Main effect: fresh muguet (lily-of-the-valley) clean floral/soapy heart; adds structure and diffusion
Lifetime: 40 hrs on a smelling strip
Impact: 25 (Relative Odor Impact)
Typical usage amount: 0.2–5% (often 0.5–2%)
Mayol
Main effect: clean muguet/floral heart body; boosts “dewy petal” volume and continuity
Lifetime: 72 hrs on a smelling strip
Impact: 100 (Relative Odor Impact)
Typical usage amount: 0.2–3% (often 0.5–1.5%)
Lilyflore (Firmenich)
Main effect: modern muguet/floral lift (clean, transparent, slightly fruity); brightens and updates the heart
Lifetime: “> 1 month” on a smelling strip (vendor spec)
Impact: 8/10 in blends (vendor scale)
Typical usage amount: ~0.5% average use (vendor)
Cyclamen Aldehyde
Main effect: watery, airy floral (cyclamen/muguet) with ozonic-green freshness; adds “dewy petals” and lift
Lifetime: 40 hrs on a smelling strip
Impact: 75 (Relative Odor Impact)
Typical usage amount: 0.05–1% (often 0.1–0.4%)
Salicylates (solar/creamy floral body + blending)
Hexyl Salicylate
Main effect: sweet green-floral, solar “suntan/white floral” body; smooth blender
Lifetime: 32 hrs on a smelling strip
Impact: 90 (Relative Odor Impact)
Typical usage amount: 1–10% (often 2–6%)
Amyl (Isoamyl) Salicylate
Main effect: warmer, creamier “solar/sunscreen” floral body; softens woods and fattens white florals
Lifetime: 36 hrs on a smelling strip
Impact: 110 (Relative Odor Impact)
Typical usage amount: 0.1–8% (PerfumersWorld typical usage: 0.1%–8%, avg 1%)
Benzyl Salicylate
Main effect: heavy sweet-balsamic floral fixative; big jasmine/ylang support + solvent-like rounding
Lifetime: 210 hrs on a smelling strip
Impact: 30 (Relative Odor Impact)
Typical usage amount: 1–10% (often 2–8%)
Woody-musky body builder
Cashmeran
Main effect: warm woody-musky, slightly spicy “cashmere/amber-wood” body; adds plushness and warmth
Lifetime: very long; typically several days to a week+ on strip
Impact: high (can dominate if pushed)
Typical usage amount: 0.5–5% (often 1–3%; higher for obvious cashmeran signature)
Iso E Super
Main effect: smooth transparent cedar/ambery “skin-wood” volume; blends edges and boosts trail without heaviness
Lifetime: very long; typically several days to a week+ on strip
Impact: medium–high (builds a strong aura at higher %)
Typical usage amount: 5–30% (often 10–25%; higher in minimalist woody styles)
Amber Xtreme
Main effect: very powerful dry woody-amber radiance; boosts projection and long-lasting trail
Lifetime: extremely long; typically several days to a week+ on strip
Impact: very high (can get harsh if overdosed)
Typical usage amount: 0.01–0.3% (often 0.02–0.15%; rarely above 0.5%)
Sweetener / gourmand-amber builder
Vanillin
Main effect: sweet vanilla, creamy gourmand warmth; rounds and sweetens drydown
Lifetime: very long; typically several days to a week+ on strip
Impact: high (reads quickly as “vanilla” if pushed)
Typical usage amount: 0.1–3% (often 0.2–1.5%; higher in gourmands)
Solvents / fixatives (function-first materials)
Benzyl benzoate
Main effect: mild sweet-balsamic, faint floral; primarily solvent/fixative (little “odor effect”)
Lifetime: very long; persists in base many days on strip
Impact: low (functional more than aromatic)
Typical usage amount: 1–15% (often 3–10%; higher for resin/vanillin-heavy concentrates)
DPG (Dipropylene Glycol)
Main effect: low-odor diluent/solvent; improves blending and handling
Lifetime: long; remains in base many days on strip
Impact: very low (mostly functional)
Typical usage amount: 1–30% (often 5–20% in bases/dilutions)
TEC (Triethyl Citrate)
Main effect: low-odor, slightly ester/fruity solvent; smoother/heavier feel than DPG; helps stability/fixation
Lifetime: long; remains in base many days on strip
Impact: very low (mostly functional)
Typical usage amount: 1–30% (often 5–25%, especially with naturals/resins)